AR Sponsor
Posted: 5/10/2014 10:43:54 PM EDT
|
Let me start by apologizing for this post. I've been lurking for a while and browsing the forums, picking up some great knowledge along the way. With the extensive amount of information the google machine has given me I've created more questions than answers, so bear with me please.
The rifle I'm building is primarily for training/fun on the range, yet needs to work in the unlikely shtf scenario in what ever form it may come. So I've figured 16", 5.56, in a 1:9 twist, medium/govt/whatever you want to call it contour, mid-length. I'm planning on putting somekind of lightweight keymod FF handguard in the 13-15" range as I like to get my support hand way out there. I've been mostly browsing midwayusa with a little bit of CTD and brownells. I really like the layout of midwayusa. I'm finding Daniel Defense, VooDoo, Wilson Combat barrels in my price range. I'm just wondering if anyone has any suggestions for this build given what I'd like to use it for. I'll typically run quick shooting drills in the 3 to 50 yard range. I do like doing stuff out to 100 yards and beyond, but I really haven't found a great place to do that kind of shooting out here, so I don't mind sacrificing some accuracy. I don't think I'm ready to go down the .223 wylde route. How much should I look at spending and at what point will i stop noticing the difference when shooting out to short/medium distances. Thank you, Beetlebuu |
| Sounds like you should remain in the knowledge search mode for a while longer or at least until you want a Wylde Chamber. Unless you have a background in skills that relate to gunsmith-ing I would advise purchasing a new weapon and learning how to maintain it and improve its performance. You may want to acquire the new Rock River Arms March 2014 Catalog. Good news is they are making their current receivers fit together tighter and offer everything from A-Z, reminds me of BushMaster Glory Days. Shop around everywhere including local, etc. and spend what it takes to build or purchase a good rifle. Unlike a computer, a computerized automobile and money wasted on fancy cellphones, etc. a firearm will last a lifetime and beyond. |
|
Quoted:
Let me start by apologizing for this post. I've been lurking for a while and browsing the forums, picking up some great knowledge along the way. With the extensive amount of information the google machine has given me I've created more questions than answers, so bear with me please. The rifle I'm building is primarily for training/fun on the range, yet needs to work in the unlikely shtf scenario in what ever form it may come. So I've figured 16", 5.56, in a 1:9 twist, medium/govt/whatever you want to call it contour, mid-length. I'm planning on putting somekind of lightweight keymod FF handguard in the 13-15" range as I like to get my support hand way out there. I've been mostly browsing midwayusa with a little bit of CTD and brownells. I really like the layout of midwayusa. I'm finding Daniel Defense, VooDoo, Wilson Combat barrels in my price range. I'm just wondering if anyone has any suggestions for this build given what I'd like to use it for. I'll typically run quick shooting drills in the 3 to 50 yard range. I do like doing stuff out to 100 yards and beyond, but I really haven't found a great place to do that kind of shooting out here, so I don't mind sacrificing some accuracy. I don't think I'm ready to go down the .223 wylde route. How much should I look at spending and at what point will i stop noticing the difference when shooting out to short/medium distances. Thank you, Beetlebuu Getcha one of these barrels and you'll get a free stripped upper receiver. If that ain't in your budget, best just buy a complete rifle and mod as you can. |
| There is nothing fun about a weapon that malfunctions because it was assembled by an individual with no prior skills related to gunsmith-ing. I.E. Crossover skills such as machinists, mechanics, electricians, plumbers, etc. Individuals accustomed to using their minds and hands help lessen the possibility of a malfunction. You need to read my post again because it did not exclude DIY but it did offer guidelines that lessen encounters with an EMT, ER, attorney, police, undertaker, etc. When it comes to assembly and shooting firearms, safety is in the driver's seat and fun is at the back of the bus. |
|
I'm not going to go into huge detail here.
I've never bought a complete AR. I found an upper I liked from a reputable manufacturer and matched it to a lower from a reputable manufacturer and that became AR#1. I did it primarily to avoid the 11% excise tax on complete rifles in place at that time. Later on I disassembled AR#1 to add parts and to see how it's put together. Buying a complete upper and lower was the right way to go about getting BRD. Ask yourself: What are you gonna do with it most of the time? For me it's zillions of rounds of 55gr blasting ammo. Sometimes XM193, sometimes Wolf. Sometimes my generic 55gr handloads. For that type of shooting a standard 5.56 chambered 1/9 twist will do fine. AR#1 is 1/7 govt profile and will shoot ammo as light as 52gr or as heavy as 77gr but it gets more blasting ammo than anything else. I bought 1/7 because the "kool kids" said so but in reality I never needed it with AR#1. I should have bought a 16" medium contour 1/8 middy but middys were rare back then. I did get the middy eventually. I have three uppers and four lowers. No upper is dedicated to any lower. I play mix and match depending on what I need to do. Your shooting needs will dictate what you should get. |
|
Building ARs from just parts is only slightly more involved than snapping legos together. But this is from someone who enjoys all things DIY and gets confused when people ask questions that are easily answered via a little Google time.
The problem with Googleing how to build and AR isn't a lack of information, it's the over abundance of it. OP, I built my first one thru Midway, the next two I saved a bunch and almost no parts from Midway, There are better deals if you look around. |
|
Quoted:
Sounds like you should remain in the knowledge search mode for a while longer or at least until you want a Wylde Chamber. Unless you have a background in skills that relate to gunsmith-ing I would advise purchasing a new weapon and learning how to maintain it and improve its performance. You may want to acquire the new Rock River Arms March 2014 Catalog. Good news is they are making their current receivers fit together tighter and offer everything from A-Z, reminds me of BushMaster Glory Days. Shop around everywhere including local, etc. and spend what it takes to build or purchase a good rifle. Unlike a computer, a computerized automobile and money wasted on fancy cellphones, etc. a firearm will last a lifetime and beyond. Why does he need a Wylde chamber? |
|
Thank you for all the replies!
@JohnInLA - I understand where you're coming from and why you're giving me this particular advice. I'm certainly not a gunsmith. I have owned many things that go boom and have been maintaining and improving them for a while. It started with bb guns as a kid. As a teenager I got a job at a local paintball field and due to my mechanical aptitude was put in charge of buying, fixing, and upgrading both the stores paint guns and customers paint guns as well. I am now a physicist and do quite a lot of work with fabrication; this means machining; prototyping; dealing with a multitude of technical specs, tolerances, and materials; and finally quality and failure analysis. By no means is any of this a substitute for a solid background on gunsmithing, but it's also not my first time at the rodeo. That being said, I do really have my heart set on this build, and I don't particularly want to start from a completed upper. I understand the advantages of the wylde chamber, I'm just reluctant to use it due to my own resistance to adopt new things. While everyone has heard of 5.56 NATO, not everyone knows what 223 Wylde is. I've seen the success many have had on this forum with their builds, including first time builders; many of whom don't have the technical background, tools, and mechanical ability that I have access to, therefor I feel I am quite capable of undertaking this task. I originally wanted to just upgrade the current AR that I had, but after many hours of researching I ended up with a list so big I figured why not build a new rifle. So I have some parts on hand including the upper receiver and bcg, All i'm needing to finish the upper is the barrel assembly and charging handle. There really is an over abundance of info on the internet, not to mention a level of AR customization that I could never have imagined. I probably will end up with several completed uppers and lowers that can be mixed and matched depending on what my needs for that day are. |
|
Quoted:
Thank you for all the replies! @JohnInLA - I understand where you're coming from and why you're giving me this particular advice. I'm certainly not a gunsmith. I have owned many things that go boom and have been maintaining and improving them for a while. It started with bb guns as a kid. As a teenager I got a job at a local paintball field and due to my mechanical aptitude was put in charge of buying, fixing, and upgrading both the stores paint guns and customers paint guns as well. I am now a physicist and do quite a lot of work with fabrication; this means machining; prototyping; dealing with a multitude of technical specs, tolerances, and materials; and finally quality and failure analysis. By no means is any of this a substitute for a solid background on gunsmithing, but it's also not my first time at the rodeo. That being said, I do really have my heart set on this build, and I don't particularly want to start from a completed upper. I understand the advantages of the wylde chamber, I'm just reluctant to use it due to my own resistance to adopt new things. While everyone has heard of 5.56 NATO, not everyone knows what 223 Wylde is. I've seen the success many have had on this forum with their builds, including first time builders; many of whom don't have the technical background, tools, and mechanical ability that I have access to, therefor I feel I am quite capable of undertaking this task. I originally wanted to just upgrade the current AR that I had, but after many hours of researching I ended up with a list so big I figured why not build a new rifle. So I have some parts on hand including the upper receiver and bcg, All i'm needing to finish the upper is the barrel assembly and charging handle. There really is an over abundance of info on the internet, not to mention a level of AR customization that I could never have imagined. I probably will end up with several completed uppers and lowers that can be mixed and matched depending on what my needs for that day are. With the background you have your good to go on the building of your rifle. I used to do the same thing with paintball guns and people do not believe you when you tell them how unreal picky those things can be. Everytime someone would bring in an autococker I wanted to jump out the window or take a smoke break, and I dont smoke. Sorry for the funny on the autococker for you guys who dont know what they are lol. As far as your decision on the chambering, go with a 5.56. This way you can shoot both no worries. As long as you go with quality parts your GTG. Stick to parts that are already proven. As I understand it, the "wylde" Is simply the ability to handle the higher pressure of a NATO round. Not all but a lot of the time the fun ammo is in NATO 5.56, and the cheaper ammo is in 223. Not always, a lot of match ammo I have seen is 223. But if you go with a barrel capable of handling 5.56, you can shoot it all. With access to machining equipment and the know how to use it, the sky is pretty much your limit. Welcome and good luck. |
|
Building an AR is not the same as building a Mauser.
I didn't have any knowledge beyond the DIY stickies and a friend who was his platoon's armorer. I did grow up building with erector sets and am no slouch when it comes to auto maintenance, so there is that. Assembling a lower receiver is not difficult at all. There are a couple tricky parts (pivot pin detent, for one) but nothing like having to squeeze a barrel into an action with a floor press. There are a couple specialty tools you will WANT to get and I would suggest having a solid idea of what the rifle will be used for. OP said range/SHTF, so my suggestion is a carbine length 16" M4 profile without chrome lining in either a 1:9 or a 1:8 twist. Chroming the barrel was so that Marines in Vietnam would not see a performance degradation as their barrels got attacked by powder residue and the high humidity. It also was to keep them from getting shot out due to extended full-auto usage. It drops the accuracy in favor of decreasing the effects of copper fouling and raises the cost ~$50. Second, get a bolt carrier with a 512C bolt that was at least magnetic particle inspected (MPI engraved) as that is a tool-type steel that seems to hold up best to standard barrel extensions. |
AR Sponsor