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Posted: 3/21/2012 6:46:52 AM EDT
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I've been working on a build and installed the barrel without using a torque wrench. But I decided to pick one up just to double check to make sure I'm at least at 35 ft/lbs.
Is 35 ft/lbs just not a lot of torque? I seem to push past it easily when applying relatively little force using a smooth, even motion. I feel like I need to maybe back the barrel nut off some and try to snug it up a little less (which would mean backing it up at least one notch in the barrel nut). But I think the value should be between 35 and 85 per the instructions I've read, so maybe it's fine? Thanks for the help. |
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From what I understand even though the spec sheet says 35 to 80 or what ever, you pretty much want to put down at least 45 on it.
I know a guy who never uses a torque wrench and he said he just "gets it as tight as I can with my hands, and then snug it up a little with the barrel wrench tool" and he builds tons of Ar's. But thats just one mans opinion. If I were using a wrench I'd at least put 45 on it maybe 50. |
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I don't quite understand your question.
But the procedure is this - Snug up your barrel nut - make sure your threads are coated with moly grease Torque to 35 - 40 Torque to the next lined up groove for your gas tube (not exceeding 80) Back it off Snug up Torque to 35-40 Torque to the next lined up groove for your gas tube (not exceeding 80) Back it off Snug up Torque to 35-40 Torque to the next lined up groove for your gas tube (not exceeding 80) Youre done. |
| To torque it correctly, you need to tighten the barrel nut then back it off. You need to do this three times. On the final torque, tighten to the final torque value then center it for the gas tube notch. I have never had a barrel nut ever be dead on at the preferred torque value. IIRC the specs fall anywhere between 35-80ft/lb. Also make sure you're using the proper grease for the barrel nut threading. |
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Torque range is :
30 ft lbs –––– 80 ft lbs Always has been. The 3x torque method outlined above is also in the manual. Stay behind your prime alignment spot until the final pass. You don't blindly torque away....observe what is going on with alignment all the time. What if your prime alignment happens to fall in the 30 - 40 range ? This is the part of the assembly that takes a little thinking. Don't be one of those knuckleheads breaking wrench pins in the upper reaches of the torque range trying to find alignment. |
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Quoted: If you are a manly man, 35ft/lbs is "really snug". Not much at all with any length tool and still very easy to remove the nut. It's even easier to surpass 35ft/lbs with a longer breaker bar or torque wrench.I've been working on a build and installed the barrel without using a torque wrench. But I decided to pick one up just to double check to make sure I'm at least at 35 ft/lbs. Is 35 ft/lbs just not a lot of torque? I seem to push past it easily when applying relatively little force using a smooth, even motion. I feel like I need to maybe back the barrel nut off some and try to snug it up a little less (which would mean backing it up at least one notch in the barrel nut). But I think the value should be between 35 and 85 per the instructions I've read, so maybe it's fine? Thanks for the help. The gas tube keeps the nut from backing off. |
| If you got it lined up and its on there past 30 your good to go. The 80 lb mark is the max where some damage may start to occur. My free float didn't say a thing about torque just said hand tighten and then align to the next notch. If your over 30 and you didn't break anything and its all lined up leave it. |
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Quoted:
If you got it lined up and its on there past 30 your good to go. The 80 lb mark is the max where some damage may start to occur. My free float didn't say a thing about torque just said hand tighten and then align to the next notch. If your over 30 and you didn't break anything and its all lined up leave it. Fixed. |
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