AR Sponsor
Posted: 4/7/2013 6:31:07 PM EDT
| I intend to paint my DTI, I have spent all this time lubing the shit out of a rifle I now intend to paint, obviously paint and oil are not old friends. I have researched to an extent the various posts and come to the point that many like break cleaner non-chlorinated and simple green etc. many of these threads are old. What are you guys using now in the year of our Lord 2013? I intend to use krylon camo as my paint. This is my first attempt at this type of thing and I don't want to F it up. Appreciate the tips. |
| I intend to use an adhesion promoter to aid bonding. Simple green worries the shit out of me. I honestly had not thought of mineral spirits. I am going to try the tips above and start with some good ole non-chlorinated brake cleaner then final prep with mineral spirits. Will brake cleaner mess with the grip, buffer tube etc? Any other tips before I take this project on? |
Acetone. I have to fully degrease everything I cerakote. I soak parts in Acetone for 20 minutes. I've NEVER had an oil spot in a finished product. (I've made mistakes I had to correct, but not an oil/grease spot). I have seen competitors not only have them, but send the fucking part back to the customer with them.  , That used other products. Acetone works, it'll run you less than 20 bucks out the door for a gallon, and you can save it after use.
|
|
Quoted:
Simple green isn't considered very good for aluminum... Correct. Original Simple Green is not aluminum-friendly. Simple Green Pro HD and Simple Green Aircraft and Precision Cleaner both are aluminum safe. Acetone works well and is often cheaper per ounce than brake cleaner. Dries quickly too. |
|
Quoted:
Well shit I'm allowed to change my mind, will acetone harm the buffer tube, grip etc? It sound like an all around killer choice. Acetone is used in automotive paint paint prep right? I have soaked magpul polymer in it prior to Cerakoting and never had an issue. |
| Electrical Contact Cleaner in big spray can in the electrical department at Lowe's. It's basically trichloroethane used in vapor degreasing tanks in industry. Home depot carries the equivalent stuff in a dark blue can in their electrical department. The stuff is a little expensive but works really well. |
|
I just did this last week. I degreased the rifle with brake cleaner, heated the rifle, degreased again with brake cleaner, heated it again, degreased it with brake cleaner, and then did a final clean with an acetone wipedown. Heating the rifle drives the oil out of the cracks and crevices.
I rigged up a heating chamber with three five gallon buckets. Two of them had the bottoms cut out, and then stacked endo and duct taped together. I then cut a hole with a hole saw in the side of the bottom bucket for a hair dryer I got off of the wife. The rifle is lowered into the buckets with a piece of tie wire, and then dogged off on a 2x4 across the top. To get the temp up real good, you can cover the top a bit. I painted an AR with a 24" barrel using the buckets. I did, however, take the rifle down and paint each piece individually, and only assembled the upper and lower for the second color of the camo. I used Alumahyde II, so it was pretty important that I got the thing hot so it would cure fast. |
AR Sponsor