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8/11/2004 11:09:44 AM EDT
I need to get an SBR engraved.  In the past I have used a set of Outer's reblue pens (3 steps).  They worked well in the past but this will be an Essential Arms lower that is a grey color.  What will be the easiest, cheapest way to reblue where the engraving is?  I would prefer it to match the grey color but it doesn't have to be exact.

Thanks.
8/11/2004 5:34:21 PM EDT
[#1]
I didn't think the marking had to be visible.  What's wrong with under the pistol grip?  Lots of room there.

-- Chuci
8/12/2004 5:10:43 AM EDT
[#2]
I think they have changed the regs.  I was told it had to be visible.
8/12/2004 12:53:00 PM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
I think they have changed the regs.  I was told it had to be visible.



+1


8/12/2004 1:39:59 PM EDT
[#4]
Gun Blue doesn't work well on Aluminum - Birchwood Casey makes a special
Aluminum Black though.

OR - How about a Metallic Silver "Sharpie" permanent marker?

www.sanfordcorp.com/sanford/consumer/jhtml/new-product/productdetail.jhtml?attributeId=1800001&nrProductId=SN39100
8/12/2004 2:10:59 PM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
Gun Blue doesn't work well on Aluminum - Birchwood Casey makes a special
Aluminum Black though.

OR - How about a Metallic Silver "Sharpie" permanent marker?

www.sanfordcorp.com/sanford/consumer/jhtml/new-product/productdetail.jhtml?attributeId=1800001&nrProductId=SN39100



Would that still protect the aluminum (ie from rust etc.)?
8/12/2004 2:19:32 PM EDT
[#6]
The aluminum black forms a chemical bond to the aluminum , similar to bluing ,
I use it for touchups on ARs.

The Sharpie might not last as long - might have to reapply later - but it protects
as well as paint.
8/12/2004 2:22:58 PM EDT
[#7]
I wasn't clear, I was asking if the sharpie protected.

I think I will give that Birchwood Casey a shot.  Do you think it will look okay on a grey reciever?  My EA has a kind of strange grey color.
8/12/2004 3:31:57 PM EDT
[#8]
If I were trying to match an EA lower, I'd go to a hobby shop and buy some Testor Model Master paint in Gunship Gray FS36118. Darn close match and it will protect as well as anything. That aluminum black stuff will be black on the gray.

I came in late to this conversation. Exactly what is it that you HAVE to engrave?
8/12/2004 5:12:05 PM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:
If I were trying to match an EA lower, I'd go to a hobby shop and buy some Testor Model Master paint in Gunship Gray FS36118. Darn close match and it will protect as well as anything. That aluminum black stuff will be black on the gray.

I came in late to this conversation. Exactly what is it that you HAVE to engrave?



It is an EA grey lower that has been made into an SBR (or is about to be as soon as it is engraved).

Thanks for the info.
8/12/2004 6:24:58 PM EDT
[#10]
Forgot to mention, you can get it in a spray can but you just want the little $2 bottle. Flow it into your engraving and wipe up the excess with a rag with thinner on it. If you do it right, it'll be very neat, should last a long time, and can be touched up whenever necessary.

Forgive me for sounding stupid but what about an SBR has to be engraved? I don't think I've ever heard of this before.
8/12/2004 7:16:19 PM EDT
[#11]
When making an SBR you have to have the maker's name and location engraved in the receiver.

Ex.  M. Smith
      Kansas City, MS.
8/13/2004 12:35:42 PM EDT
[#12]

Quoted:
When making an SBR you have to have the maker's name and location engraved in the receiver.

Ex.  M. Smith
      Kansas City, MS.



Where is Kansas City, MS? don't you mean MO?
In any case if there is anyone who needs engraving doen in the KC area drop me a line and I can put you in touch with the fellow who can do an exceptional job of engraving on these he will also do color fill if you wish. It is machine engraving and is far superior to the jewelry shop engraving that i have seen.
8/13/2004 3:16:18 PM EDT
[#13]

Quoted:

Quoted:
When making an SBR you have to have the maker's name and location engraved in the receiver.

Ex.  M. Smith
      Kansas City, MS.



Where is Kansas City, MS? don't you mean MO?
In any case if there is anyone who needs engraving doen in the KC area drop me a line and I can put you in touch with the fellow who can do an exceptional job of engraving on these he will also do color fill if you wish. It is machine engraving and is far superior to the jewelry shop engraving that i have seen.



I just made that part up, I live in PA.  I guess MO is Missouri, I don't get down there much.  
8/13/2004 3:30:18 PM EDT
[#14]
Bluing is for steel.  It is an advanced oxiding that protects the steel.

Aluminum, such as in AR's, are anodized for hardness and corrosion protection.  Touchup blue is not the thing to use.

For scratches on black anodized products I sell I use the Birchwood-Casey Aluminum Black.  This chemically blackens the aluminum.   As far as corrosion protection, it is really not a problem.  Certainly you have little scratches and worn spots on other AR's?  Did you ever see corrosion on those places?  For the engraving, it is just not a problem, don't worry about it.

BUT, your Essential lower is gray.  What I would do is as suggested, and find a flat paint that is the correct color, and fill in with a very fine sable artists brush.  You don't really have to paint it in so much as drop in and let it flow and fill the letter/number.  As it dries it will lose volume and sink into the engraving.
8/13/2004 4:11:15 PM EDT
[#15]

Quoted:
Bluing is for steel.  It is an advanced oxiding that protects the steel.

Aluminum, such as in AR's, are anodized for hardness and corrosion protection.  Touchup blue is not the thing to use.

For scratches on black anodized products I sell I use the Birchwood-Casey Aluminum Black.  This chemically blackens the aluminum.   As far as corrosion protection, it is really not a problem.  Certainly you have little scratches and worn spots on other AR's?  Did you ever see corrosion on those places?  For the engraving, it is just not a problem, don't worry about it.

BUT, your Essential lower is gray.  What I would do is as suggested, and find a flat paint that is the correct color, and fill in with a very fine sable artists brush.  You don't really have to paint it in so much as drop in and let it flow and fill the letter/number.  As it dries it will lose volume and sink into the engraving.



Great!  I think that is what I will do.  


Thanks to everyone for the input.
8/14/2004 3:43:48 PM EDT
[#16]
Funny thing is the guy I speak of is "M. Smith" thought it a bit Ironic....
No worries just having fun....
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