AR Sponsor
Posted: 3/15/2008 7:31:20 AM EDT
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First of all hello, I'm new to the boards and to AR's in general. I have recently picked up a AR15 w/16" barrel. the lower is DPMS and the upper is J&T. All components are brand new and aside from a minor issue with the upper and lower being very tight (which has been corrected) it functions very well. EXCEPT for the bolt won't lock back after the last round is fired. I have used cheap magazines that have literally fallen apart, I have used qualitly ones like P mag, D&H, Brownells, and different brands of ammo. Nothing seems to correct the problem. It will lock back if I manually pull the charging handle on an empty mag but never has it locked back when I have shot the last round. What could be the cause of this? |
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Sounds like your rifle is short stroking. You're loseing gas somewhere. There is a problem between where the gas tube comes out of the FSB to the gas key on the bolt carrier. Check the gas key on the bolt carrier for tightness. Look at some of the stickies at the top of this forum for short stroking advice and troubleshooting. |
I think the forum must be broken. There is an automatic response set up at this forum that the computer generates saying... ".......CHECK THE GAS KEY FOR LOOSENESS......."  that should have been posted by the computer when you or anyone says "My gun malfunctions" |
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Also don't forget that you need to lube the entire upper receiver bearing areas, including the buffer and spring with CLP (BreakfreeCLP in the large 16oz spray can {Walmart} is the best value since you will use it to not only lube the rifle/parts, but to clean it as well). On the wetter side is best for rifle break-in, then you can go to the leaner side of lubing after say 500 rounds. The parts are new/rough anodized/parkerized and will take a few hundred rounds until they self polish through rubbing each other during live fire. Note: use a copper solvent to clean the bore, but remember to get out any traces of the solvent from the bore/chamber before you put the rifle into action (read these areas should be kept dry when firing, and only lube for storage purposes). www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=7&t=203988 P.S. Welcome to the site!!! |
| thanks for the help guys. I can't get to the range till next weekend but I'll post if I still have issues. On a side note when it comes to lube (I read most of the posts on here about it) what do you think about using Miltec as a lube in these guns? I have been using this in my Glocks for sometime now and haven't had any issues. Should I use something heavier like grease around the gas rings? |
I am going to get a lot of people's panties in a bunch here but, Miltec is a good lube. I use it on my ARs and all my handguns. Slip 2000 EWL is also a very good lube. With that said it is not a good rust preventative. Make sure you use a good rust preventative for storing. CLP works well. |
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The big plus for CLP is that it's one hell of a cleaner that works all by itself. This means as the rifle is trying to foul out, the existing and any added to relube in/to the rifle will clean the fouling in the rifle to keep if from choking out. Also, CLP has Teflon in it, so even if the wet portion of the lube burns/dries out, the dry lube is still working (read don't let the fact that it's thin fool you). |
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