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7/28/2014 8:59:42 PM EDT
Hi guys,

I recently bought a new PSA 18" CHF 223 Wylde 1:8 Rifle Gas SSK 15" running on a PSA lower with Magpul CTR, Carbine length buffer tube, damage industries chrome silicon spring with Spike ST-T2 buffer.

Since I'm running the rifle length gas system on a carbine buffer I wanted to know if the brass casings are ejecting normal. Can someone tell by looking at the brass deflector marks? Should I get the H2 buffer?


• Here is the PSA 18" CHF 223 Wylde: PHOTO

to compare

• Here is my PSA 16" Carbine: PHOTO


Btw. I used CLP, frog lube, Hoppe’s Elite cleaner, rag, and eraser but nothing's removing that brass mark.

Anyone know what else I could do to remove that?

Thank you!
7/28/2014 9:12:32 PM EDT
[#1]
You should be looking for ejected brass between 3 and 4:30.

ETA:
7/28/2014 9:35:11 PM EDT
[#2]
Hoppes #9 usually gets the brass off for me but I usually don't worry much about it. An H2 buffer is only going to to be about .4-.6 ounces heavier over your ST-T2, which won't make much difference IMO. You could always buy some tungsten powder at your local golf shop and play with the weight. And there is also the Vltor A5 system. Personally, I'd leave it alone or use a H2 only to get rid of the ST-T2. Your brass deflector is doing its job.
7/28/2014 9:52:12 PM EDT
[#3]
I have a question about the ejection angle chart.

Does the brass usually hit the deflector and fly out to 12:00-3:00? Or  just eject out that way?

Thanks
7/29/2014 7:46:21 AM EDT
[#4]
Hits deflector
7/29/2014 8:02:27 AM EDT
[#5]
Here's a slow motion vid that shows ejection rather well

AR ejection,.....sloooooooooow mo
7/29/2014 9:19:43 AM EDT
[#6]
If it feeds and runs 100% the don't  caught up in changing  buffers

GI tooth brush and clp or any oil will remove brass mark with ease !!!

use elbow grease.
7/29/2014 11:06:46 AM EDT
[#7]
That's totally normal...Went through the same things with best friends kid...used Brasso to clean it up then put electrical tape on it for future trips to the range.

7/29/2014 11:47:51 AM EDT
[#8]
As long as it's ejecting cleanly I wouldn't mess with it.  Chances are you'll screw it up trying to fix a problem that doesn't really exist.

As for cleaning, I hear some guys put velcro on the deflector.  Not a big deal for me so I just leave it.
7/29/2014 2:57:51 PM EDT
[#9]
I'd probably increase the weight of the buffer. Mainly because I don't care much for collecting brass from ahead of the firing line, or having it bounce back at me shooting around barriers. When my carbine had an H buffer in it, it tore my brass up trying to extract it while the chamber pressure was too high, bad for brass, not good for the bolt either.

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7/29/2014 5:25:42 PM EDT
[#10]
Cover it up with some tape and run her for some more rounds...it should move forward and away from the deflector as the springs begin to soften.

Your better off having a strong ejection at the beginning than a weak one...



 
7/29/2014 6:38:34 PM EDT
[#11]
Sorry to hijack slightly but my deflector still looks new, nothing done to it. But none of my brass hits it.

Not going to change anything but is it over gassed? DD 16 mid A5 RE M16 bcg. Approx. 1,000 rounds.

7/29/2014 7:03:23 PM EDT
[#12]


Quote History
Quoted:



Sorry to hijack slightly but my deflector still looks new, nothing done to it. But none of my brass hits it.





Not going to change anything but is it over gassed? DD 16 mid A5 RE M16 bcg. Approx. 1,000 rounds.





View Quote





 

When the ejector ans extractor springs are new the tend to be more aggressive in the extration which causes it to hit the deflector....as they began to weaken the ejectection moves forward.  Chances are your set up was spot on.

 
7/29/2014 7:25:22 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote History
Quoted:

  When the ejector ans extractor springs are new the tend to be more aggressive in the extration which causes it to hit the deflector....as they began to weaken the ejectection moves forward.  Chances are your set up was spot on.
 
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Sorry to hijack slightly but my deflector still looks new, nothing done to it. But none of my brass hits it.

Not going to change anything but is it over gassed? DD 16 mid A5 RE M16 bcg. Approx. 1,000 rounds.


  When the ejector ans extractor springs are new the tend to be more aggressive in the extration which causes it to hit the deflector....as they began to weaken the ejectection moves forward.  Chances are your set up was spot on.
 

Thanks
7/29/2014 7:53:22 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote History
Quoted:
Cover it up with some tape and run her for some more rounds...it should move forward and away from the deflector as the springs begin to soften.
Your better off having a strong ejection at the beginning than a weak one...
 
View Quote




Thank you.

My PSA NiB BCG came with really tight extractor. I have a heck of a time inserting the roll pin. Maybe that's the problem.
7/29/2014 8:57:55 PM EDT
[#15]
When brass deflects off the deflector it leaves a smear mark, as if it was painted, and lands somewhere between 4 -5 o'clock.

Your brass deflector appears to be cut to bare aluminum through the anodizing, most likely by the case mouth.
You can correct it by installing heavier buffer, weaker extractor spring, and dumping the rubber o-ring if it's installed.



7/29/2014 10:33:27 PM EDT
[#16]
If your rifle does not have a FSB, but an adjustable gas block and tune it right.
7/29/2014 11:30:09 PM EDT
[#17]
If it's feeding/cycling fine, just trim a section of velcro (soft side) for the deflector and forget about it.
7/30/2014 3:34:02 AM EDT
[#18]


Quote History
Quoted:
Thank you.





My PSA NiB BCG came with really tight extractor. I have a heck of a time inserting the roll pin. Maybe that's the problem.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Quote History
Quoted:





Quoted:


Cover it up with some tape and run her for some more rounds...it should move forward and away from the deflector as the springs begin to soften.


Your better off having a strong ejection at the beginning than a weak one...


 

Thank you.





My PSA NiB BCG came with really tight extractor. I have a heck of a time inserting the roll pin. Maybe that's the problem.
If it has an O-Ring you can remove it and see how that does.  Everything should loosen up over time...the coated NiB's add a slight amount to the dimensions.




 





 
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