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Posted: 4/12/2007 5:20:56 PM EDT
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When one replaces a flash hider how do you keep from marring the barrel? Is there a torque rate for attaching the new one? My barrel is a 16 inch so the bird cage is not pinned. __________________ |
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| If you use a 3/4" open end wrench and a handi-wipe (or something similar) to act as a cushion for the contact points on the flats for the wrench, you should not get any marring. I've done it with crush washers that were 270 degrees off before resistance without a problem. Heck, I keep a steel pipe around to get more leverage with the wrench. It may take some finish off on the edge of the flats but cold bluing will take care of that. |
Thanks, that is what I needed to know. |
I use a two wood blocks and clamps on the FSB and that works fine. I don't have an actual vise 
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Crush washer is what you need to "time" the muzzle device unless it uses a shoulder like the Vortex. There are many methods but you should use caution when applying torque, things can slip away and hurt you or the gun if you are not careful. I have a 6 inch vise, alum barrel block, a plastic upper action block...I made too many mistakes and have learned patience and to have the right tools. |
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I'm really ghetto. I just put my rifle on the carpet, my knee on the front sight base, and a wrench on the flash hider. Done. Works every time. I would use the correct tools (such as a vise) but living in an apartment means I don't have room for a workbench. I just tighten it up until it's tight. I've never bothered with checking the torque on a flash hider, and I've never seen one come off as a result, or loosen up for that matter. If you're worried about the finish, put some duct tape on the wrench. It's too easy of a job to make hard. I'm sure someone will be along to point out all the things I'm doing wrong 
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