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Posted: 7/7/2010 1:08:21 PM EDT
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Our range is near the ocean, therefore salt gets into everything, especially while shooting prone.
I have DD rails and FSP on all of my guns, so to clean, I simply remove the rails to get the caustic salt-laden dust from under there. Then a light coat of preservative. Iron sights remain unaffected. On order is a Stealth that will have a backup front sight mounted on the rail. How to clean and protect w/out getting excessive spray under the handguards to attract more stuff? I am assuming that removing the handguards affects the zero.... Any recommendations, comments are appreciated. Thanx |
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I use Aluminahyde II from Brownells on my barrels under the rails. It's an epoxy based paint that was made to handle the higher temps, and resist most bore cleaning solvents. It's not as durable as some of the other baked on finishes and it takes a week to fully cure, but it's cheap. And the cure time isn't really a problem since it's under the handguards and not going to be scraped up, assuming you don't do a course the next day.
Duracote would also be an excellant choice, but it's a little more expensive and you'll need to use your oven to bake it. The high temp (1100 degrees) exhaust enamel works decently too. You could have Durakote, Cerakote, KG Gunkote, or a myriad of others professionally applied for not a huge amount of money. |
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sorry, should've said that the barrel was ionbonded.
thanks for the suggestions and help somehow, I can't seem to shake that persistent wart on my shoulder that constantly urges me to get into those nooks and crannies, 'cause rust (or corrosion) never sleeps. how does one cope with mud or other bad-guys that get under the handrails? |
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I'll use just hot tap water to rinse out things like mud or heavy sand (and needle nose pliers or tweezers to remove twigs and leaves), then let it dry in front of a fan in the summer, or heater in the winter. With a good finish on the barrel (better than parkerising at the very least) I don't worry about it rusting that quickly from the water.
Hell, you could always paint over the Ionbond for extra corrosion resistance, but that would probably be overkill at this point. Wouldn't hurt anything though. Compressed air. Hot water followed by a rinse of 91% rubbing alcohol to dry it out. Maybe some type of dry spray lube/cleaner. |
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yeah, when playing Army, we used to dunk our guns in barrels of HOT water. (prolly borrowed from the mess-hall) the water would evaporate quicker than cooler water. anyone pour / use boiling water on the metal parts, will it affect loctite? red loctite break down temp is well above the boiling point of water at sea level. |
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Uuuuhhh. What does not get burned off or banged out while running around, will get cleaned when when the barrel is worn and changed out for a new one.  +1. Any surface rust that may form on the outside of the barrel is purely cosmetic, it will not affect the function of the rifle as designed. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Uuuuhhh. What does not get burned off or banged out while running around, will get cleaned when when the barrel is worn and changed out for a new one. +1. Any surface rust that may form on the outside of the barrel is purely cosmetic, it will not affect the function of the rifle as designed. Oil won't really protect the metal from corrosion. Corrosion protection is dependent on the treating process for the metal, the metal itself, and any type of coating on the outside. |
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Uuuuhhh. What does not get burned off or banged out while running around, will get cleaned when when the barrel is worn and changed out for a new one. +1. Any surface rust that may form on the outside of the barrel is purely cosmetic, it will not affect the function of the rifle as designed. Oil won't really protect the metal from corrosion. Corrosion protection is dependent on the treating process for the metal, the metal itself, and any type of coating on the outside. 
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Uuuuhhh. What does not get burned off or banged out while running around, will get cleaned when when the barrel is worn and changed out for a new one. +1. Any surface rust that may form on the outside of the barrel is purely cosmetic, it will not affect the function of the rifle as designed. Oil won't really protect the metal from corrosion. Corrosion protection is dependent on the treating process for the metal, the metal itself, and any type of coating on the outside. +1
What lasted longer the control or the oil coatted part? |
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yeah, when playing Army, we used to dunk our guns in barrels of HOT water. (prolly borrowed from the mess-hall) the water would evaporate quicker than cooler water. anyone pour / use boiling water on the metal parts, will it affect loctite? red loctite break down temp is well above the boiling point of water at sea level. I think the red high temp loctite is good up to 350 deg. |
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Uuuuhhh. What does not get burned off or banged out while running around, will get cleaned when when the barrel is worn and changed out for a new one. +1. Any surface rust that may form on the outside of the barrel is purely cosmetic, it will not affect the function of the rifle as designed. Oil won't really protect the metal from corrosion. Corrosion protection is dependent on the treating process for the metal, the metal itself, and any type of coating on the outside. +1
What lasted longer the control or the oil coatted part? I'll see your and raise you .
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yeah, when playing Army, we used to dunk our guns in barrels of HOT water. (prolly borrowed from the mess-hall) the water would evaporate quicker than cooler water. anyone pour / use boiling water on the metal parts, will it affect loctite? red loctite break down temp is well above the boiling point of water at sea level. I think the red high temp loctite is good up to 350 deg. removal temp is 435 deg F. at 212 deg f it will keeo 100for 1000 hours. http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/271-EN.pdf |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Uuuuhhh. What does not get burned off or banged out while running around, will get cleaned when when the barrel is worn and changed out for a new one. +1. Any surface rust that may form on the outside of the barrel is purely cosmetic, it will not affect the function of the rifle as designed. Oil won't really protect the metal from corrosion. Corrosion protection is dependent on the treating process for the metal, the metal itself, and any type of coating on the outside. +1 What lasted longer the control or the oil coatted part? I'll see your and raise you .Do you rub oil all over your car every day? The control sample was untreated metal. Like I said, corrosion protection is dependent on the metal material itself, the treatment process, and the type of coating on the outside that seals the metal from oxygen. Oil that manages to cling onto metal can act as a corrosion inhibitor, but if it burns off or washes off (which is easily done on a weapon), then the corrosion protection is dependent on the metal alloy, treatment, and coating. |
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yeah, when playing Army, we used to dunk our guns in barrels of HOT water. (prolly borrowed from the mess-hall) the water would evaporate quicker than cooler water. anyone pour / use boiling water on the metal parts, will it affect loctite? red loctite break down temp is well above the boiling point of water at sea level. I think the red high temp loctite is good up to 350 deg. removal temp is 435 deg F. at 212 deg f it will keeo 100for 1000 hours. http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/271-EN.pdf I'm sure your right. I'm just reading the back of the package. 
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been using the blue loctite, will try the red. mahalo[/quote]  be careful- the red is some dangerously nasty stuff. use it on gas block screws, and not much else for AR's.
honestly, i dont think removing a larue handguard would affect zero- youre not loosening the barrel nut, just the allen screws, and the handguard retainer. however, i personally would shoot it liberally with break free, or the gun oil of your choice, and then clean it back off with powder blast- the stuff that smells like oranges. it evaporates almost immediately, and you can find it at walmart- nothing special. its one of the only solvents i use on AR's- i also like M Pro 7, but its 3 times the price. just dont use gun scrubber- unless its to take a grease spot off the driveway
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Uuuuhhh. What does not get burned off or banged out while running around, will get cleaned when when the barrel is worn and changed out for a new one. +1. Any surface rust that may form on the outside of the barrel is purely cosmetic, it will not affect the function of the rifle as designed. Oil won't really protect the metal from corrosion. Corrosion protection is dependent on the treating process for the metal, the metal itself, and any type of coating on the outside. +1
What lasted longer the control or the oil coatted part? I'll see your and raise you .Do you rub oil all over your car every day? The control sample was untreated metal. Like I said, corrosion protection is dependent on the metal material itself, the treatment process, and the type of coating on the outside that seals the metal from oxygen. Oil that manages to cling onto metal can act as a corrosion inhibitor, but if it burns off or washes off (which is easily done on a weapon), then the corrosion protection is dependent on the metal alloy, treatment, and coating. I don't oil the car everyday but I wax it every month. If he cleans the rifle after shooting it with a good cleaner like CLP he will protect it between range visits. I take my FF rail off every time I clean the rifle, but that just me. The CLP will burn off when you shoot it but if your rifle rusts before you get it to your house and clean it there is something seriously wrong with the metal your rifle is made off, and yes if you put on gobs of oil on the rifle the sand will cling to the rifle but if you use a light coating on it, it should be fine, worked for me in the sandbox. I use CLP to clean my rifles and I have never had a problem with rust and I live in GA where the humidity is close to 90% all the time during the summer. |
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