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Posted: 6/18/2013 4:47:03 PM EDT
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Is the install of coiled spring roll pins the same as conventional roll pins?
Thanks |
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Forward assist this is how I do it. 1. I use brownells roll pin punch starter 2. Finish with grace roll pin punch. How proud does the starter punch leave the pin? When I remove pin from last attempt tomorrow I'll check for a burr in the upper. Seems to be really tight. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Forward assist this is how I do it. 1. I use brownells roll pin punch starter 2. Finish with grace roll pin punch. How proud does the starter punch leave the pin? When I remove pin from last attempt tomorrow I'll check for a burr in the upper. The roll pin holder leaves the pin about 1/8" +/- proud. Stop (of course) before the RP holder strikes the receiver. Use a slave pin to keep everything aligned properly and take the opportunity to check forward assist function before driving the roll pin. A drill bit shank of the correct size works well for a slave pin. Tape down the the slave pin so that the roll pin chases it out withhout causing it to fly out. Put a dab of grease on the RP before driving. Drive from the bottom side. |
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Thanks Shooter, Bucko. Got the Grace roll pin punches, will order starter. I started with that small set they sell on amazon for the starter punches and they do work great, I think the brownells are better just because they are longer and give you more room to work. |
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Drive from the bottom side. Why drive from the bottom? My vise block wont allow me to do so, if I use it. The top stays pristine. You can usually tell which is the driven side of an RP. If you have a slip-up it's down and out of sight. It's probably is easier to drive from the top if you don't have the OCD. |
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Drive from the bottom side. Why drive from the bottom? My vise block wont allow me to do so, if I use it. [/quote] I have the clamshell viceblock so when it comes to putting in the forward assist I simply took a block of oak cut about 3 inches wide and as long as the upper. I then took a router and made a channel in both sides for the upper to sit in much like the plastic or aluminum blocks are. It allows for the upper to sit flat without resting on the takedown pin ears. you could just cut a block to sit within the ears and not have to router it. I just did it that way as I was also making a top piece to use as a set in a vice since some of the rails have the tab to aid in alignment and my clamshell viceblock interferes with it. |
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My method (for firearms and non arms related)... Loosely chuck the roll pin in a drill, so the drill holds it, but don't crush the roll pin. Pull the trigger on the drill, then take a jewelers file and knock just the very edge off the outside corner of the roll pin. Puts just a wee-little taper on it. Makes it way easier to start and if you drive it out in the opposite direction (depending on the roll pin) it keeps it from mushrooming as much.
Just my experience, Mike |
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Quoted:
My method (for firearms and non arms related)... Loosely chuck the roll pin in a drill, so the drill holds it, but don't crush the roll pin. Pull the trigger on the drill, then take a jewelers file and knock just the very edge off the outside corner of the roll pin. Puts just a wee-little taper on it. Makes it way easier to start and if you drive it out in the opposite direction (depending on the roll pin) it keeps it from mushrooming as much. Just my experience, Mike BTW I've done this with pins as small as the gas block/tube pin and it works great. Just gotta have a gentle hand when you chuck it in the drill. Mike |
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