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Posted: 2/7/2011 2:12:52 PM EDT
| For those who have them, what are your impressions? Solid units? |
| I ordered an upper from smartgunner with one and took it off that upper and put it on my BCM upper, its rock solid. If you want to nit pick the Laser T marks on it dont match the painted on T marks of the BCM upper i have and the tmarks on the rail are odd numbers and upper has even numbers. |
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I only have one complaint on mine, and it is a real nitpick.
The two pieces of the rail, upper and lower, are held together with screws. The screws that hold the two sections together sit up above the surface of the slot. As a result you can't put anything in that slot. It is no big deal. But on my gun, the slot with the screw just happened to be the perfect slot for a light mount. So I had to move back one slot. No big deal, just a little tiny thing. |
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Quoted:
I only have one complaint on mine, and it is a real nitpick. The two pieces of the rail, upper and lower, are held together with screws. The screws that hold the two sections together sit up above the surface of the slot. As a result you can't put anything in that slot. It is no big deal. But on my gun, the slot with the screw just happened to be the perfect slot for a light mount. So I had to move back one slot. No big deal, just a little tiny thing. + the flat head screws which slips easily when tightening, it would've been a lot better to use a hex head! |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I only have one complaint on mine, and it is a real nitpick. The two pieces of the rail, upper and lower, are held together with screws. The screws that hold the two sections together sit up above the surface of the slot. As a result you can't put anything in that slot. It is no big deal. But on my gun, the slot with the screw just happened to be the perfect slot for a light mount. So I had to move back one slot. No big deal, just a little tiny thing. + the flat head screws which slips easily when tightening, it would've been a lot better to use a hex head! But they wanted you to be able to drop the bottom rail in the field. It is easier to find a screwdriver then a hex wrench. |
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Quoted:
As others have said, solid rail/lockup. Couldn't be easier to install. I like the fact that it uses the existing barrel nut. I've had some trouble in the past with FSB removal for FF rails. And you don't have to line up gas tube holes which can be a PITA. No, the Omega X uses a proprietary nut. The Omega uses the standard nut. ETA: I had an Omega 7.0 in a lightweight upper, and now have an Omega X 12.0 FSP on a DDM4. They are both fantastic designs and are 100% rock solid. The proprietary nut on the Omega X does require the special wrench if you plan on removing it, but it will only set you back $10. |
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Quoted: I could have sworn his post asked about the Omega rail. Maybe he changed it....OP ignore my post. I thought you were talking about the Omega rail.Quoted: As others have said, solid rail/lockup. Couldn't be easier to install. I like the fact that it uses the existing barrel nut. I've had some trouble in the past with FSB removal for FF rails. And you don't have to line up gas tube holes which can be a PITA. No, the Omega X uses a proprietary nut. The Omega uses the standard nut. ETA: I had an Omega 7.0 in a lightweight upper, and now have an Omega X 12.0 FSP on a DDM4. They are both fantastic designs and are 100% rock solid. The proprietary nut on the Omega X does require the special wrench if you plan on removing it, but it will only set you back $10. |
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