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Posted: 12/30/2009 5:22:35 PM EDT
| After firing a few mags of NATO ball my 24" DPMS LR jammed with bolt completely locked. It appears the last round fired and I assumed the casing has deformed. There is absolutely no play with the chamber and I can't switch the safety off either. I feel like I'm going to break the gun pulliing on bolt and pounding a rod down the barrel and haven't had any luck. Any tips? |
| Place a soft piece of wood on the ground and bang the butt of the rifle against it while pulling back on the charging handle. You might have to bang it pretty good but work up to that if need be. Of course remove the mag and keep booger hooker away from the trigger when you do do. |
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Place a soft piece of wood on the ground and bang the butt of the rifle against it while pulling back on the charging handle. You might have to bang it pretty good but work up to that if need be. Of course remove the mag and keep booger hooker away from the trigger when you do do. exactly what I was going to say...... 
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As they said, with the muzzle skyward, slam the butt on the ground while pulling the charging handle. The inertia of the BCG will unlock the chamber. Rod down the barrel will do nothing if the bolt is locked.
Naturally, some penetrating oil sprayed near the bolt and in the holes on the side of the carrier, and let it sit muzzle down for a while can help. Next time, keep the BCG wet with gun oil. Especially when new. The parts have to wear together, and knock park off. After a mag or two, add some more oil. And polish that chamber. |
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As they said, with the muzzle skyward, slam the butt on the ground while pulling the charging handle. The inertia of the BCG will unlock the chamber. Rod down the barrel will do nothing if the bolt is locked. Naturally, some penetrating oil sprayed near the bolt and in the holes on the side of the carrier, and let it sit muzzle down for a while can help. Next time, keep the BCG wet with gun oil. Especially when new. The parts have to wear together, and knock park off. After a mag or two, add some more oil. And polish that chamber. ...or maybe not shoot NATO ammunition in a .308 chamber (if it's a factory DPMS barrel). |
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As they said, with the muzzle skyward, slam the butt on the ground while pulling the charging handle. The inertia of the BCG will unlock the chamber. Rod down the barrel will do nothing if the bolt is locked. Naturally, some penetrating oil sprayed near the bolt and in the holes on the side of the carrier, and let it sit muzzle down for a while can help. Next time, keep the BCG wet with gun oil. Especially when new. The parts have to wear together, and knock park off. After a mag or two, add some more oil. And polish that chamber. ...or maybe not shoot NATO ammunition in a .308 chamber (if it's a factory DPMS barrel). Why, it's probably running at least 100-200 FPS slower then "civi" .308. |
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This happens when I use my go guage.
Just take a block of wood, put it on the charging handle latch, push down, and tap it to the rear with a hammer. Do this with the stock on the ground or a bench. Don't slam the rifle unless you have to, thats just stupid. Dont try to hammer or push a rod down the barrel from the muzzle end, you'll only fuck up the crown on your barrel. |
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As they said, with the muzzle skyward, slam the butt on the ground while pulling the charging handle. The inertia of the BCG will unlock the chamber. Rod down the barrel will do nothing if the bolt is locked. Naturally, some penetrating oil sprayed near the bolt and in the holes on the side of the carrier, and let it sit muzzle down for a while can help. Next time, keep the BCG wet with gun oil. Especially when new. The parts have to wear together, and knock park off. After a mag or two, add some more oil. And polish that chamber. ...or maybe not shoot NATO ammunition in a .308 chamber (if it's a factory DPMS barrel). Why, it's probably running at least 100-200 FPS slower then "civi" .308. Nato shell cases are ever so slightly longer and have ever so slightly thicker shell cases. |
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As they said, with the muzzle skyward, slam the butt on the ground while pulling the charging handle. The inertia of the BCG will unlock the chamber. Rod down the barrel will do nothing if the bolt is locked. Naturally, some penetrating oil sprayed near the bolt and in the holes on the side of the carrier, and let it sit muzzle down for a while can help. Next time, keep the BCG wet with gun oil. Especially when new. The parts have to wear together, and knock park off. After a mag or two, add some more oil. And polish that chamber. ...or maybe not shoot NATO ammunition in a .308 chamber (if it's a factory DPMS barrel). Why, it's probably running at least 100-200 FPS slower then "civi" .308. Nato shell cases are ever so slightly longer and have ever so slightly thicker shell cases. I know they are thicker but that only affects the ID, not the OD. |
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As they said, with the muzzle skyward, slam the butt on the ground while pulling the charging handle. The inertia of the BCG will unlock the chamber. Rod down the barrel will do nothing if the bolt is locked. Naturally, some penetrating oil sprayed near the bolt and in the holes on the side of the carrier, and let it sit muzzle down for a while can help. Next time, keep the BCG wet with gun oil. Especially when new. The parts have to wear together, and knock park off. After a mag or two, add some more oil. And polish that chamber. ...or maybe not shoot NATO ammunition in a .308 chamber (if it's a factory DPMS barrel). Why, it's probably running at least 100-200 FPS slower then "civi" .308. Nato shell cases are ever so slightly longer and have ever so slightly thicker shell cases. I know they are thicker but that only affects the ID, not the OD. I guess it could, at times, affect the OD, but they are slightly longer as well. DPMS chambers are very tight .308, so that could affect extraction. He might also have a chamber that needs to be honed or polished. |
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Quoted: ..... Just take a block of wood, put it on the charging handle latch, push down, and tap it to the rear with a hammer. Do this with the stock on the ground or a bench. Don't slam the rifle unless you have to, thats just stupid. ..... Do the opposite of this.  |
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Do not put a rod down the muzzle and hammer on it! If the bolt is locked, it will only damage the bolt lugs and barrel extension. In other words, you'll end up buying an new barrel and bolt –– not a cheap thing to do. First, you need to unlock the bolt by moving the bolt carrier to the rear. This can be done by slamming the buttstock on the ground as described above. -or- 1. Pull the takedown and pivot pins and separate the upper and lower. 2. Turn the upper upside down and place a brass punch against the back of the bolt carrier's hammer slot, angled to drive the bolt carrier rearward. 3. Tap the brass punch with a hammer (tap like you are breaking ice cubes, not driving nails). This will move the bolt carrier to the rear, unlocking the bolt and pushing the BCG out the back of the receiver. |
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It amuses me to hear anti slamming info. I guess thats mainly from people who never carried an M-16 for Uncle Sugar. One thing you learn carrying a US rifle is just how much punishment it can take. Slamming to clear, buttstroking etc. I think non military service people treat their rifles with kid gloves.
The proper way to unlock the bolt when it does not want to unlock is to slam the butt to the ground while pulling on the charging handle. Period. If you are really concerned about breaking a nail in the process, you can put down your yoga mat, and slam the butt down on that. If you have a carbine stock, collapse it first. You dont have any blocks of wood and hammers in the field. If you take the rifle to unit maint, they will probably separate the upper and lower, and invert the upper, place a big ass flat head screwdriver between the bolt carrier and the barrel extension and twist. |
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It amuses me to hear anti slamming info. I guess thats mainly from people who never carried an M-16 for Uncle Sugar. One thing you learn carrying a US rifle is just how much punishment it can take. Slamming to clear, buttstroking etc. I think non military service people treat their rifles with kid gloves. The proper way to unlock the bolt when it does not want to unlock is to slam the butt to the ground while pulling on the charging handle. Period. If you are really concerned about breaking a nail in the process,you can put down your yoga mat, and slam the butt down on that. If you have a carbine stock, collapse it first. You dont have any blocks of wood and hammers in the field. If you take the rifle to unit maint, they will probably separate the upper and lower, and invert the upper, place a big ass flat head screwdriver between the bolt carrier and the barrel extension and twist. 
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It amuses me to hear anti slamming info. I guess thats mainly from people who never carried an M-16 for Uncle Sugar. One thing you learn carrying a US rifle is just how much punishment it can take. Slamming to clear, buttstroking etc. I think non military service people treat their rifles with kid gloves. The proper way to unlock the bolt when it does not want to unlock is to slam the butt to the ground while pulling on the charging handle. Period. If you are really concerned about breaking a nail in the process, you can put down your yoga mat, and slam the butt down on that. If you have a carbine stock, collapse it first. You dont have any blocks of wood and hammers in the field. If you take the rifle to unit maint, they will probably separate the upper and lower, and invert the upper, place a big ass flat head screwdriver between the bolt carrier and the barrel extension and twist. HA! I like you sir! |
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It amuses me to hear anti slamming info. I guess thats mainly from people who never carried an M-16 for Uncle Sugar. One thing you learn carrying a US rifle is just how much punishment it can take. Slamming to clear, buttstroking etc. I think non military service people treat their rifles with kid gloves. The proper way to unlock the bolt when it does not want to unlock is to slam the butt to the ground while pulling on the charging handle. Period. If you are really concerned about breaking a nail in the process,you can put down your yoga mat, and slam the butt down on that. If you have a carbine stock, collapse it first. You dont have any blocks of wood and hammers in the field. If you take the rifle to unit maint, they will probably separate the upper and lower, and invert the upper, place a big ass flat head screwdriver between the bolt carrier and the barrel extension and twist. http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a305/M1Riflenut/misc/th_08-51.gif By all means slam it on the ground and be done with it the design of the AR is tough. The design has worked for forty plus years through every environment know to man and still goes bang. I have seen them dropped, ran over, thrown against trees, and dropped into the crapper and still they go bang. |
| If hitting the butt on the bench doesn't work, take a piece of thin cardboard like a match book cover and cut 2 pieces about 1/2 by 1 inch. Take a fairly large flat blade screwdriver and put the cardboard pieces on each side and put the screwdriver through the ejection port with the end between the front of the port and the front of the bolt carrier. Gently pry the screwdriver foreward. |
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..... Just take a block of wood, put it on the charging handle latch, push down, and tap it to the rear with a hammer. Do this with the stock on the ground or a bench. Don't slam the rifle unless you have to, thats just stupid. ..... Do the opposite of this. LOL, exactly. Or, do it, but make sure you have a new charging handle on hand. Best way if possible, is remove the mag. Take a large flat blade screw driver. Stick the blade in the magwell, between the bolt carrier, and the bolt (if there is room) Twist( don't pry against the magwell) the screwdriver and it should push the carrier back and let the bolt unlock. If that fails , revert to the slam the butt on the ground method. I have done it dozens of times with no ill effects. Of course it was in combat conditions with no screwdriver available. |
| slamming the butt stock on the ground is called a "forced extraction" it will work your problem has happened to me force extraction is the best and safest way to extract the spent casing. if your are apprehensive about doing this take it to a gun smith where he will do it. and if he breaks your weapon at least he will do what ever is necessary to make it right. |
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