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Posted: 5/31/2014 10:20:53 PM EDT
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Hi, put an "H" buffer in my M&P Sport, seems to have less felt recoil now along with a nice Geissele Trigger.
My M&P 15's spring feels very weak (maybe worn in like it should be, just know with my BCM charging handle that you barely even feel the tension when charging the handle, wasn't as noticeable until I built a new rifle with a new stiffer spring.) Just wondering, being I put in an H-Buffer in (replacing the Car Buffer), should I put a New Spring in this also?? Its at the 500-700 round mark. Or is it good for the spring to be broken in and have lighter/ less tension like mine has?? The M&P Sport that this thread is about DOES NOT have an "FA-Milspec/ Heavy BCG", so dont think a "special" spring is required with just an H-Buffer change, just wondering if changing the spring would help, and hopefully not effect anything in a negative way (or require a break in period.) Hopefully would just make felt recoil better and slow things down equaling less wear. Just started noticing the "doink doink" sound in the buffer tube when firing now if wearing only thin earplugs, although I've been putting my face more forward on the tube when firing so may just now be noticing it, being I used to keep my cheek weld on the MOE stock and further back. So, My question is, with my rifle NOT having any issues, just wondering: Should I keep same spring I have until I start having issues, or add another new spring thats similar to it or better at this point (being that I have a couple extra, standard bronze colored springs that come with Buffer Kit assemblies, One's Bravo company and the one from the "No Brand Name- Kit", the Spring's wrapper says "Made in China", not sure if that normal or a POS but looks the same as the bronze colored Bravo Company Spring.) Should I add a "blue spring", "flat wire spring", or one of the many other fancy springs you can buy now?? I used a $10 "Spikes Tactical- Stainless/Electro polished Spring" in my other build thats smooth, although I noticed that it doesn't fully touch the inner walls of the buffer tube like most standard ones do, its circumference is smaller, alot easier to install and remove also. This is in other AR though I Do Not want an "enhanced strength" spring or anything, just want something similar to the original but better quality and longer lasting (Flat Wire Spring etc etc), that is, if putting a new one in this early is even a good idea. Not sure how long a standard recoil spring runs for and how much tension is needed and signs to change it..?? I'm a Noob so SORRY FOR THIS LONG POST and so many miniscule questions about a recoil spring, just clueless on this matter. Although its not a huge deal, advice would be great! |
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The average lifespan of a buffer spring varies, but most would say in the high thousands depending on Brand, Length, and your shooting conditions. Luckily, new buffer springs are cheap and it doesn't hurt to have 1 or 2 extras, but I wouldn't change it out until about 5,000 rounds, and even that is a bit overkill I.M.O.
If you really want to get fancy and eliminate the "twang", go for a JP Silent Capture buffer spring assembly. They are about $130 and they eliminate the "twang" which is great when shooting suppressed subsonic. |
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Quoted:
The average lifespan of a buffer spring varies, but most would say in the high thousands depending on Brand, Length, and your shooting conditions. Luckily, new buffer springs are cheap and it doesn't hurt to have 1 or 2 extras, but I wouldn't change it out until about 5,000 rounds, and even that is a bit overkill I.M.O. If you really want to get fancy and eliminate the "twang", go for a JP Silent Capture buffer spring assembly. They are about $130 and they eliminate the "twang" which is great when shooting suppressed subsonic. WOW, $130..yea, not going that route... Thanks for info though. Also, WOW again, from 0-500 rounds the spring lost sooo much tension. I just can't imagine going from 500-5,000 on it and losing that much more power. Unless it gets to a point to wear it stays about the same from here on out after the 500ish mark and doesn't keep wearing as fast. May add a "Flat Wire Spring (some call em "Flat Woven Springs") for under $40 bucks and my Gunsmith said they are smooth and quiet and the only thing he uses, he an AR specialist. Just wondered if throwing in New spring on a already Broken in Rifle would change my accuracy or anything, or make it function better?? Thats why I asked, thanks for reading the novel above. The "Spikes" spring I mentioned is stainless and polished and although I've only fired my new Middie build with an H2 and that spring like for 2 mags, it was smooth as butter when firing. May be due to the gas system mainly from what I've heard, not sure though. Just thought it was strange how the Spikes Spring didn't touch the Tube's inner walls in a 360 degree manor like the standard springs do. Its like its not as or wide or thick. Hopeffuly thats not abnormal and its just because its in a "NON-Spikes" buffer tube....May just be over thinking it now though. lol |
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Quoted:
WOW, $130..yea, not going that route... Thanks for info though. Also, WOW again, from 0-500 rounds the spring lost sooo much tension. I just can't imagine going from 500-5,000 on it and losing that much more power. Unless it gets to a point to wear it stays about the same from here on out after the 500ish mark and doesn't keep wearing as fast. May add a "Flat Wire Spring (some call em "Flat Woven Springs") for under $40 bucks and my Gunsmith said they are smooth and quiet and the only thing he uses, he an AR specialist. Just wondered if throwing in New spring on a already Broken in Rifle would change my accuracy or anything, or make it function better?? Thats why I asked, thanks for reading the novel above. The "Spikes" spring I mentioned is stainless and polished and although I've only fired my new Middie build with an H2 and that spring like for 2 mags, it was smooth as butter when firing. May be due to the gas system mainly from what I've heard, not sure though. Just thought it was strange how the Spikes Spring didn't touch the Tube's inner walls in a 360 degree manor like the standard springs do. Its like its not as or wide or thick. Hopeffuly thats not abnormal and its just because its in a "NON-Spikes" buffer tube....May just be over thinking it now though. lol Quoted:
Quoted:
The average lifespan of a buffer spring varies, but most would say in the high thousands depending on Brand, Length, and your shooting conditions. Luckily, new buffer springs are cheap and it doesn't hurt to have 1 or 2 extras, but I wouldn't change it out until about 5,000 rounds, and even that is a bit overkill I.M.O. If you really want to get fancy and eliminate the "twang", go for a JP Silent Capture buffer spring assembly. They are about $130 and they eliminate the "twang" which is great when shooting suppressed subsonic. WOW, $130..yea, not going that route... Thanks for info though. Also, WOW again, from 0-500 rounds the spring lost sooo much tension. I just can't imagine going from 500-5,000 on it and losing that much more power. Unless it gets to a point to wear it stays about the same from here on out after the 500ish mark and doesn't keep wearing as fast. May add a "Flat Wire Spring (some call em "Flat Woven Springs") for under $40 bucks and my Gunsmith said they are smooth and quiet and the only thing he uses, he an AR specialist. Just wondered if throwing in New spring on a already Broken in Rifle would change my accuracy or anything, or make it function better?? Thats why I asked, thanks for reading the novel above. The "Spikes" spring I mentioned is stainless and polished and although I've only fired my new Middie build with an H2 and that spring like for 2 mags, it was smooth as butter when firing. May be due to the gas system mainly from what I've heard, not sure though. Just thought it was strange how the Spikes Spring didn't touch the Tube's inner walls in a 360 degree manor like the standard springs do. Its like its not as or wide or thick. Hopeffuly thats not abnormal and its just because its in a "NON-Spikes" buffer tube....May just be over thinking it now though. lol +1 on the Jp silent capture spring. It works wonders on suppressed builds. I have one in both my sbr suppressed builds. I never heard of a spring wearing out. |
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The military TM gives minimum and maximum lengths for standard springs.
Some will only last a few thousand rounds, on the other hand people have posted that their springs have lasted many thousands of rounds. CS springs have incredibly long service life’s, the Tubb’s flatwire CS spring is advertised as lasting hundreds of thousands of cycles and they are around $25. Changing the spring should not affect accuracy. Unless you are having issues changing out the spring for a standard spring will not improve function, but the weapon may feel different when cycling. Going to one of enhanced springs may have benefits. The various manufacturers will have descriptions of how they think their enhanced spring is better. If you change to the Tubb’s spring and have a collapsible stock the Tubb’s spring will feel a lot stronger. This because Tubb’s uses the same spring for fixed and collapsing stocks so in the CAR stock the spring is preloaded more than a standard length CAR spring. I am using Tubb’s springs in both type stocks and I am happy with them, but there are plenty of good choices out there. |
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if your gun cycles and brass is going the right direction, you are fine.
Quoted:
Hi, put an "H" buffer in my M&P Sport, seems to have less felt recoil now along with a nice Geissele Trigger. My M&P 15's spring feels very weak (maybe worn in like it should be, just know with my BCM charging handle that you barely even feel the tension when charging the handle, wasn't as noticeable until I built a new rifle with a new stiffer spring.) Just wondering, being I put in an H-Buffer in (replacing the Car Buffer), should I put a New Spring in this also?? Its at the 500-700 round mark. Or is it good for the spring to be broken in and have lighter/ less tension like mine has?? The M&P Sport that this thread is about DOES NOT have an "FA-Milspec/ Heavy BCG", so dont think a "special" spring is required with just an H-Buffer change, just wondering if changing the spring would help, and hopefully not effect anything in a negative way (or require a break in period.) Hopefully would just make felt recoil better and slow things down equaling less wear. Just started noticing the "doink doink" sound in the buffer tube when firing now if wearing only thin earplugs, although I've been putting my face more forward on the tube when firing so may just now be noticing it, being I used to keep my cheek weld on the MOE stock and further back. So, My question is, with my rifle NOT having any issues, just wondering: Should I keep same spring I have until I start having issues, or add another new spring thats similar to it or better at this point (being that I have a couple extra, standard bronze colored springs that come with Buffer Kit assemblies, One's Bravo company and the one from the "No Brand Name- Kit", the Spring's wrapper says "Made in China", not sure if that normal or a POS but looks the same as the bronze colored Bravo Company Spring.) Should I add a "blue spring", "flat wire spring", or one of the many other fancy springs you can buy now?? I used a $10 "Spikes Tactical- Stainless/Electro polished Spring" in my other build thats smooth, although I noticed that it doesn't fully touch the inner walls of the buffer tube like most standard ones do, its circumference is smaller, alot easier to install and remove also. This is in other AR though I Do Not want an "enhanced strength" spring or anything, just want something similar to the original but better quality and longer lasting (Flat Wire Spring etc etc), that is, if putting a new one in this early is even a good idea. Not sure how long a standard recoil spring runs for and how much tension is needed and signs to change it..?? I'm a Noob so SORRY FOR THIS LONG POST and so many miniscule questions about a recoil spring, just clueless on this matter. Although its not a huge deal, advice would be great! |
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http://www.sprinco.com/tactical.html
All of our springs are constructed from Certified Chrome Silicon wirestock to ISO 9001:2008 quality standards to withstand extreme heat and highly cyclic rate. The certification rating ensures a consistency in the parent material of 95%, which translates to repeatable consistency in performance & function. Certified Valve Quality Chrome Silicon wire is used in very high stress applications such as, NASCAR, Formula One, Moto GP & Pro Stock racing motor valve springs. It is not uncommon in some of these applications for valve springs to see 15,000,000 compression cycles in one race. It is this extraordinary capability that makes Chrome Silicon wire the obvious choice in our spring production vs. music wire or 17-7 PH used in OEM springs and by most aftermarket competitors. In addition, all of our Chrome Silicon springs are heat treated, stress relieved, and shot peened in separate post winding treatments. We also treat each spring with a proprietary, deep-penetrating, Re-Micronized (to .3 Micron particle size), inhibited, Molybdenum-Disulfide (MoS2) formulation to eliminate 90% of all mechanical wear on the spring. The combination of materials & processes result in a loss of no more than 5% in spring efficiency. The minimum rated duty cycle of our buffer springs is in excess of 1,500,000 cycles. |
| Springs don't really "wear out" from normal cycling of the weapon unless the installation allows the spring material to go over the back side on the stress-strain curve (yield). If your carbine spring is less than 10" in free length then it has yielded and may require replacement. If the rifle still cycles normally I wouldn't worry about it. |
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