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4/1/2007 9:45:11 PM EDT
Has anyone used this product? And is it all that it is cracked up to be? Thank you in advance for any help or suggestions.
4/2/2007 4:18:46 AM EDT
[#1]
I used duracoat to paint a FAL I was working on, its best if used with a spray gun attached to a compressor because the can's seem to run out in the middle of the job (the chep can fed spray guns leak). Also if your not comfortable with mixing hardner and paint to get a good consistancy, go with something less work intensive(IE Krylon). I wanted the color they had (socom) so thats what I bought.It went on real even, and I didnt "bake" it, I just left it in the sun all day (july temps). Its a good product, and they have alot of color matches (Vltor, Magpul, etc).It seems to be pretty resistant, but then again I only used ons coat so I doubt it'll last that long. hope this helps.
4/2/2007 4:24:02 AM EDT
[#2]
Duracoat is a horrible product for a gun finish. All it is is Sherwin-Williams Polane-based automotive paint; it is too thick and looks like crap. The only thing it is good for is parts that can't be heat cured like optics and some plastics.

Gun Kote and Norrels Moly Resin are VASTLY superior products.
4/2/2007 6:24:13 AM EDT
[#3]
I've been duracoating guns for 3 years and I don't have any problems out of it and no problems from the customers.  

However, it does take some prep work and good handling of the parts being painted.  As for it being to thick as the above mentioned... thats controlled by your airbrush / spray gun.

4/2/2007 6:35:49 AM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:
I've been duracoating guns for 3 years and I don't have any problems out of it and no problems from the customers.  

However, it does take some prep work and good handling of the parts being painted.  As for it being to thick as the above mentioned... thats controlled by your airbrush / spray gun.


I strongly disagree with this statement. Polane based paint has a required application thickness many times thicker than GK and NMR, and is unsuitable for close tolerance parts. If you are putting it on thinner, it won't hold up.

Go ask any real refinishers out there what they think of Duracrap; ask IGF, AZEX, ARS what finishes they use. Then make up your mind.
4/2/2007 1:04:54 PM EDT
[#5]
height=8
Quoted:
Duracoat is a horrible product for a gun finish. All it is is Sherwin-Williams Polane-based automotive paint; it is too thick and looks like crap. The only thing it is good for is parts that can't be heat cured like optics and some plastics.

Gun Kote and Norrels Moly Resin are VASTLY superior products.


Which version of Gun Kote did you use? The 1600 or the 2400? Or did you use the Brownells version? Please advise.
4/2/2007 1:15:27 PM EDT
[#6]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Duracoat is a horrible product for a gun finish. All it is is Sherwin-Williams Polane-based automotive paint; it is too thick and looks like crap. The only thing it is good for is parts that can't be heat cured like optics and some plastics.

Gun Kote and Norrels Moly Resin are VASTLY superior products.


Which version of Gun Kote did you use? The 1600 or the 2400? Or did you use the Brownells version? Please advise.

Personally I use Norrells. I have a gun-koted G3 that IGF did for me, it is 2300 (original MILSPEC). The 2400 stuff is new, it's very slippery.
4/2/2007 3:35:40 PM EDT
[#7]
hate to say this, but duracoat worked fine for me and has held up very well.  I used the cheap airbrush kit that duracoat sells and used HK black.  No problems and others who have seen it think it looks good.  The color can be affected by how much hardner you use.  They tell you how much to put in, but you can also play around a little to change colors a little.  
4/2/2007 3:55:00 PM EDT
[#8]
What is the most durable spray can paint for my furniture?
Does it need to be rough sanded?

Also, I would like to put some artwork on the side of my lower. what works best here?
4/2/2007 7:20:09 PM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:
What is the most durable spray can paint for my furniture?
Does it need to be rough sanded?

Also, I would like to put some artwork on the side of my lower. what works best here?


The Krylon Fusion line had a tan called river rock that might be an okay tan.  Fusion is supposed to bond well with plastics.  You'll probably have to clean with simple green or something like that, don't want to use anything too harsh on plastic.
4/10/2007 10:21:05 PM EDT
[#10]
I've been playing around with Duracaot on my FALS. So far so good. I had a problem with my airbrush. You can get cheap airbrushes at Harbor frieght for $6.00. I bought 2. For that price there disposable. I also Clear coated the barral on my Flintlock pistol with duracoat. It's drying right now. Duracoat takes some time to cure. It says 4 - 6 weeks is best, but you can put your rifle back together after 24 hours. If you make a mistake sanded it down with 600 grit paper to get it smooth and spray it again. Price isn't bad either.

Post some pics of Norells and the other products so I can see the difference, "please".
Always intested for other projects. Heck I even did my sons cell phone with duracoat matt black and a clearcoat finish.
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