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Posted: 4/4/2014 2:29:02 AM EDT
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I just finished a piston build, and I noticed that the shells were barely going 2 feet when they ejected. I have a JP Enterprises bolt, and the ejector pin is very strong. Any ideas what might be causing this? I have an M&P 15 Sport as well, and those shells fly about 5 feet.
I was shooting the piston AR with the gas turned off (single shot) and one time I pulled the charging handle, and the shell just spun around and stayed in the gun. I'm kind of a newbie, so... Is this normal? The rifle does shoot fairly smoothly, but it seems like the shells are almost just falling out of the gun instead of being ejected. |
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Turn the gas on, run the gun, and see what kind of ejection action you get. When I said the shells were ejecting about 2 feet, I meant with the gas on. I mentioned the manual ejection just to show how weak the ejection was. During normal operation (gas on) the shells weren't staying in the rifle. |
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I would try a lighter buffer to see what effect it might have... I probably should have mentioned that part... I did swap out lowers with my M&P 15 Sport. It has the stock buffer and spring. Not sure what the weight is, but I think it's a regular H buffer. I didn't see any difference in the ejection. The only theories I can come up with are that either the ejector pin is a little tight so even thought it has a lot of resistance, it's a little slow to push on the shell, or that the bolt itself is a little tight so there is friction on the shell as it's coming out of the bolt. Other than those possibilities, I'm clueless. |
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If its not broke, dont fix it.
Dont start swapping parts on a gun that functions perfectly. Your ar will never sling brass like an AK. Who cares if its 2 or 5 feet as long as it does it every time? The one thing you might check, take your bolt apart and see if the ejector has an ejector spring and an o ring. If so, remove o ring. In new guns the o ring is usually too much. Save it for later. Otherwise until it malfunctions don't worry about it. |
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Quoted:
If its not broke, dont fix it. Dont start swapping parts on a gun that functions perfectly. Your ar will never sling brass like an AK. Who cares if its 2 or 5 feet as long as it does it every time? The one thing you might check, take your bolt apart and see if the ejector has an ejector spring and an o ring. If so, remove o ring. In new guns the o ring is usually too much. Save it for later. Otherwise until it malfunctions don't worry about it. This I read the OP and kinda sat for a minute scratching my head thinking what is the problem? If you begin to have issues with ejection that include the round not getting its ass out of the gun that is a different story but I like clean little piles of gas right next to me. I take it the brass is in good condition when you police it up? |
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Quoted:
If its not broke, dont fix it. Dont start swapping parts on a gun that functions perfectly. Your ar will never sling brass like an AK. Who cares if its 2 or 5 feet as long as it does it every time? The one thing you might check, take your bolt apart and see if the ejector has an ejector spring and an o ring. If so, remove o ring. In new guns the o ring is usually too much. Save it for later. Otherwise until it malfunctions don't worry about it. O ring on extractor not ejector, if ejector is hard to push but moves smoothly it's good. The extractor can have too much tension on it with an o ring, most cases it's not needed but does no harm but in this case it sounds like it might be holding onto the rum a little too tightly. Take the oring off and see what happens. |
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Swap your ejector spring with your selector spring being you mention the ejector spring is really strong. It can possibly be that your ejector is not compressing all the way into the bolt, and upon ejection the ejector does not have enough travel.
If you do not have soft jaw protectors on your vise, or lack a tool to remove the ejector pin. Place a thin piece of wood against one of your vise's jaws, the bolt tail against the wood, use a fired brass cartridge used to compress the ejector inserted into the bolt, followed by the neck of the brass case against the other vise's jaw. Tighten vise just enough for the ejector to fully compress which does not take much force, and then use a 1/16th punch to lightly tap out the roll pin. Pushing down on the punch while tapping it with a jeweler's hammer, etc will help limit the punch from jumping off the roll pin; which causes roll pins to mushroom
I use a 5-coil extractor spring with a black insert, and viton o-ring; when manually extracting an unfired round, upon ejection the round flings out of the ejection port about four feet. I have a RCA bcg, and the original ejector spring took a consider amount of force to compress it. I swapped it out with a Sprinco/Tactical Springs Enhanced Ejector Spring which did not take as much force to compress it. Before replacing the spring I had a couple times firing rapid semi-auto the bolt failed to go all the way into battery. I believe the ejector spring was the contributing factor. Note: the ejector spring and selector spring are interchangeable being the both items use the same spring. |
| Smooth operation and a pile of brass stacked neatly, 2 feet away.... As long as you're using decent ammo, I wouldn't change anything. No reason to start diagnosing and treating a non-issue. And, you're comparing it to an M&P that's been known to be a bit over gassed. They like to fling brass. Mine tend to fly around 8 feet away from my M&P OR. |
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