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5/19/2006 8:09:18 AM EDT
Any tricks or recommendations on how to do it? Thanks for any info.
5/19/2006 8:20:32 AM EDT
[#1]

Quoted:
Any tricks or recommendations on how to do it? Thanks for any info.



Get the bolt tool/jig.   It's worth it,IMHO.  Before I bought one I had my wife compress the extractor/spring with a punch while I banged the pin in.
5/19/2006 8:29:39 AM EDT
[#2]
I am afraid the tools are not available here, or at least not easily. I need to do it without it. Can it be done?
I have the spare part but I am not sure of how exactly it should be done.
5/19/2006 9:29:05 AM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
I am afraid the tools are not available here, or at least not easily. I need to do it without it. Can it be done?
I have the spare part but I am not sure of how exactly it should be done.




Bugaboo,
I screwed up.  I was referencing the EJECTOR SPRING, not the extractor spring.  

For the Extractor, simply maintain a bit of downward pressure on the extractor and use a push pin to push the pin out.  Shouldn't require much effort (no hammer should be required).  


Regarding the spring, it kinda needs to be twisted out.  In other words, the spring is not simply free in it's slot.  Now you need to make sure the new spring CLICKS in place.  Twist it a bit to get it started and then use the push pin tool to seat it.  

Now, simply reinstall.
5/19/2006 9:53:51 AM EDT
[#4]
Thanks a lot. i was yonfused a bit :-)
No problem removing the extractor and NOW I know how to get the spring out/in.
thanks again.
5/19/2006 1:22:42 PM EDT
[#5]
I normally will just punch the roll pin out, and use a shop towel to catch the detent and spring.  The spring should glide in and out in the channel.  If you have some binding, then chase the hole with a drill bit, and/ or just shoot some CLP down the channel to blow what ever is in the hole out the back of the channel weep hole (not all bolts have the back weep hole).

As for reinstalling, if you don't have the compression tool, start the roll pin into the bolt, load the spring and ejector into the channel, then using a spent case and the extractor mounted in the bolt, cam the spent case to the bolt face via the extractor claw which pushes the ejector back into the channel.
Note: The tricky part about re-installing the ejector is to make sure that you have the roll pin flat section of the ejector in place.   If you don't get it aligned, then as you drive the roll pin in, it locks the ejector up sold, and destroys the ejector roll pin.
5/19/2006 1:29:21 PM EDT
[#6]

Quoted:
I normally will just punch the roll pin out, and use a shop towel to catch the detent and spring.  The spring should glide in and out in the channel.  If you have some binding, then chase the hole with a drill bit, and/ or just shoot some CLP down the channel to blow what ever is in the hole out the back of the channel weep hole (not all bolts have the back weep hole).

As for reinstalling, if you don't have the compression tool, start the roll pin into the bolt, load the spring and ejector into the channel, then using a spent case and the extractor mounted in the bolt, cam the spent case to the bolt face via the extractor claw which pushes the ejector back into the channel.
Note: The tricky part about re-installing the ejector is to make sure that you have the roll pin flat section of the ejector in place.   If you don't get it aligned, then as you drive the roll pin in, it locks the ejector up sold, and destroys the ejector roll pin.



Dano,
He was asking about the EXTRACTOR not the ejector.  I made the same mistake in my first reply above.  
5/19/2006 2:22:33 PM EDT
[#7]
Parrallel jaw pliers work well. Setting the spring AND the buffer in the extractor, then pushing downward on the workbench works also, though that method is prone to canting the spring.

Make sure you're using the right color extractor spring buffer while you're in there.
5/19/2006 11:50:33 PM EDT
[#8]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I normally will just punch the roll pin out, and use a shop towel to catch the detent and spring.  The spring should glide in and out in the channel.  If you have some binding, then chase the hole with a drill bit, and/ or just shoot some CLP down the channel to blow what ever is in the hole out the back of the channel weep hole (not all bolts have the back weep hole).

As for reinstalling, if you don't have the compression tool, start the roll pin into the bolt, load the spring and ejector into the channel, then using a spent case and the extractor mounted in the bolt, cam the spent case to the bolt face via the extractor claw which pushes the ejector back into the channel.
Note: The tricky part about re-installing the ejector is to make sure that you have the roll pin flat section of the ejector in place.   If you don't get it aligned, then as you drive the roll pin in, it locks the ejector up sold, and destroys the ejector roll pin.



Dano,
He was asking about the EXTRACTOR not the ejector.  I made the same mistake in my first reply above.  



Thought I read it as a typo, but if just the extractor spring, then all is needed is a set of pliers.  Yank the old spring out, and then semi fit the spring into the extractor, and squeeze/set the base coil into the extractor with the pliers.

As for the insert, it is nothing more than a marker for the spring tension it's self (read color), and soul-working function is to prevent the spring from kinking sideways under tension.
5/21/2006 4:50:52 AM EDT
[#9]
Thanks everybody, EXtractor replaced, easy thing, now I know, I just wanted to be sure I knew what I am supposed to do before I start. It is hard to get spare parts for AR15 here, what is the color code for the springs? I have a blue plastic buffer from DPMS set of parts. The original was black, is it bad?
And now I even know how to exchange EJECtor. Thank you all.
5/21/2006 2:15:51 PM EDT
[#10]
Back insert is the colt marker for the stronger M-4 extractor spring.

The blue, green, and a few other insert color spring markers dictates that the spring is standard strength.
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