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Posted: 7/30/2016 4:36:19 PM EDT
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SEMI ............. Continue to hold the trigger to the rear, pull the charging handle to the rear, and release it, Release the trigger with a slow, smooth motion until the trigger is fully forward. The hammer should not fall. Pull the trigger. The hammer should fall. i did the test both with charging handle on fully assembled rifle.... and with lower in hand manually manipulating trigger. i'm down to 2 theories .... had a smith do a "shop" trigger job rifle passed function test and fired well yesterday with set of yellow jp springs approx 25 rounds, no doubles or worse. worked flawlessly. was a spectacular trigger. trigger too light approx 2.5#. too light for my intended purpose.... per smith changed to milspec hammer spring...... FAIL see above failure disco does engage initially springs are installed appropriately per smith, file metal off "flat" of disco....... Fail aero precsion lpk with fcg locally branded lower (most likely made by aero precsion) changed to mil spec trigger spring.... fail changed back to yellow hammer spring, and trigger spring ........ FAIL (this part i cannot figure out).... parts as tested... functioned well yesterday i think i know where issue is ...... what is your opinion? |
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Out of your long, disjointed report, what part of the function test is actually failing? The slow release of the trigger lets the hammer fall?
If so, you disconnector is still out time with your hammer. You didn't file enough or your lower or hammer is out of spec, or some combination of both. If some other failure, please describe it more succinctly. |
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2.5lb trigger is easy to do on a Standard FCG, so long as you shim the trigger and hammer to keep them in the same relationship, make sure to re-time the disco, and to make to sure to re-heat treat any parts that were touched so they will hold there surfaces for a long time as well!!!!!
If you don't see shims on the side of the hammer and trigger, the Trigger is failing a Slow release off the disco for hammer reset, then bank that the parts were not re-heat treated either, and what every was done to the FCG, will be short lived. Hence if less than 1K of rounds, pull the trigger and take a look at the front of the sear, and bank that it going to be dent city instead. Simply, I was going to post how to do a trigger job, but since so many lack the needed tools/skill to reheat the trigger and hammer once the sears has been set, decided not to instead. This would prevent basement hacks of trigger that would soon have to be replace, and better to just send the money on a Match/drop in trigger that will pull off the same isntead. With the different type of housed type on the market, it's the better option for many, instead of just turning the FCG into a abortion instead. So not knowing how much money you have into the trigger work, and what kind of warranty the smith is going to put on the trigger, you can either see if he will fix the problem and warranty the work if the stoned parts where not re-heat treated (trigger goes out quickly again), or cut your loses, and go with a housed 2.5lb trigger group instead. |
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Quoted:
SEMI ............. Continue to hold the trigger to the rear, pull the charging handle to the rear, and release it, Release the trigger with a slow, smooth motion until the trigger is fully forward. The hammer should not fall. Pull the trigger. The hammer should fall. i did the test both with charging handle on fully assembled rifle.... and with lower in hand manually manipulating trigger. i'm down to 2 theories .... had a smith do a "shop" trigger job rifle passed function test and fired well yesterday with set of yellow jp springs approx 25 rounds, no doubles or worse. worked flawlessly. was a spectacular trigger. trigger too light approx 2.5#. too light for my intended purpose.... per smith changed to milspec hammer spring...... FAIL see above failure disco does engage initially springs are installed appropriately per smith, file metal off "flat" of disco....... Fail aero precsion lpk with fcg locally branded lower (most likely made by aero precsion) changed to mil spec trigger spring.... fail changed back to yellow hammer spring, and trigger spring ........ FAIL (this part i cannot figure out).... parts as tested... functioned well yesterday i think i know where issue is ...... what is your opinion? I can't follow a damn thing. If you are going to post and hope we can help then try to speak English. Holy cow. |
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Quoted: 2.5lb trigger is easy to do on a Standard FCG, so long as you shim the trigger and hammer to keep them in the same relationship, make sure to re-time the disco, and to make to sure to re-heat treat any parts that were touched so they will hold there surfaces for a long time as well!!!!! If you don't see shims on the side of the hammer and trigger, the Trigger is failing a Slow release off the disco for hammer reset, then bank that the parts were not re-heat treated either, and what every was done to the FCG, will be short lived. Hence if less than 1K of rounds, pull the trigger and take a look at the front of the sear, and bank that it going to be dent city instead. Simply, I was going to post how to do a trigger job, but since so many lack the needed tools/skill to reheat the trigger and hammer once the sears has been set, decided not to instead. This would prevent basement hacks of trigger that would soon have to be replace, and better to just send the money on a Match/drop in trigger that will pull off the same intead. With the different type of housed type on the market, it's the better option for many, instead of just turning the FCG into a abortion instead. So not knowing how much money you have into the trigger work, and what kind of warranty the smith is going to put on the trigger, you can either see if he will fix the problem and warranty the work if the stoned parts where not re-heat treated (trigger goes out quickly again), or cut your loses, and go with a housed 2.5lb trigger group instead. This. It sounds like you are far more skilled than I am and can do a first rate trigger job. For those of us at a more basic level, there are lots of fine drop in triggers that work a lot better than a WECSOG on a parts kit trigger. |
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