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Posted: 6/11/2016 10:37:10 AM EDT
| Hey all, I've got a situation on my hands that I'm trying to wrap my head around. Long story short, I was having issues at the range yesterday with a casing not fully ejecting from the rifle. Every stoppage had the spent round sitting out of the ejection port with the neck pointing to the 3 o-clock position, new round 3/4 into the chamber, bolt locked against the spent round at the top of the ejection port. Checked gas system, bolt never failed to lock back. Cleaned extractor claw area, no improvement. Happened more with my reloads than the 100 rounds of Federal I shot but it still occurred with the factory ammo. I don't THINK I had the bolt in 180 degrees as it ejected GREAT sometimes, other times it just kinda fell out of the port. So my thought is my ejector may be binding up or my extractor wasn't working right. Radical Firearms upper with an AIM BDG BCG with extractor o-ring. |
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Is this a new build? All of a sudden began doing this? Added new BCG, Bolt, etc?
Doesn't seem like a gas issue since you said it was locking back. For starters do you have another bolt you can try? If not check the Ejector for proper operation. Insert and empty case(could be loaded just as easily) under the Extractor Claw and then put the case against the Ejector fully against spring tension. Check for proper operation. Does it push away from out of the Bolt and away from the Extractor very easily? Another possible issue here is the Extractor Claw is too tight and not letting go of the case rim as the Ejector is trying to push the case away from the bolt and out of the ejection port. You can remove the Extractor and check the spring and see if the Bolt is using an O-ring. |
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Quoted:
Is this a new build? All of a sudden began doing this? Added new BCG, Bolt, etc? Doesn't seem like a gas issue since you said it was locking back. For starters do you have another bolt you can try? If not check the Ejector for proper operation. Insert and empty case(could be loaded just as easily) under the Extractor Claw and then put the case against the Ejector fully against spring tension. Check for proper operation. Does it push away from out of the Bolt and away from the Extractor very easily? Another possible issue here is the Extractor Claw is too tight and not letting go of the case rim as the Ejector is trying to push the case away from the bolt and out of the ejection port. You can remove the Extractor and check the spring and see if the Bolt is using an O-ring. |
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Sounds like the empty casing is being extracted from the chamber, but not ejected. Fail to ejects can be caused by several things. Can you post some pics of the bolt face, showing the ejector and extractor claw?
Check to make sure you bolt carrier key (gas key) is tight and properly staked. If you have a gas block that is held on with screws, check it for proper alignment, and that the screws are properly staked. Look at your gas tube in the charging handle track area of the upper receiver, check to see that it is centered in the charging handle track, it should have a little play right and left if you push on it. Remove the bolt, cam pin, and firing pin from the bolt carrier, then try dry fitting just the bolt carrier into the upper receiver, it should slide back and forth in the upper receiver with no resistance. Inspect the ejector pin that is in the bolt. When you look at the face of the bolt, the ejector pin should be sitting just barely below flush from the front of the bolt lugs. Push on the ejector pin, compressing it below the bolt face, then let it go, and it should come back forward under its own spring pressure. Before your next range session, give the rifle a thorough cleaning of the chamber using a good solvent and chamber brush. Once you have the chamber scrubbed, swab it out with denatured alcohol to remove any traces of solvent or lubricant. Next field strip the bolt carrier assembly, giving it a good cleaning inside and out. Once cleaned, lubricate the 7 bolt lugs and bottom & rails of the bolt carrier (Located at 2, 4, 6, 8, 10-clock) so that is glissening like a glazed donut, using a quality lubricant like Slip2000 "EWL" Extreme Weapons Lube. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" SLR15 Rifles TheDefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 |
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The rifle is under 500 rounds old and it started wishin the last 100-150 rounds. I've tested the bolt out of the rifle and it throws brass pretty decently and I also tried prying a case from under the claw and I never got it break free. I tested the ejector by placing the rim under the claw, pushing the ejector, then release the brass and it threw the brass about 3 feet. The bolt does have an O ring.
Make sure the rifle is properly lubed; and Remove the O-ring |
Just as a generalization, stovepipe is caused by excessive bolt carrier group speed - an over-gassed scenario. What's happening is that the bolt's rearward velocity and return speed is such that the spent case hasn't time to make it out of the ejection port when the BCG arrives on the return and traps it between the carrier and port window. The second round is trapped because the BCG's forward motion is stopped when the spent case is trapped. The solution? A stronger action spring and heavier buffer. If the rifle has a semi-auto bolt carrier, going to a FA carrier will slow the extraction cycle somewhat. Another alternative is to regulate gas pressure with an adjustable gas block or gas key, or to run lower-powered .223 ammo exclusively. 
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Quoted:
Just as a generalization, stovepipe is caused by excessive bolt carrier group speed - an over-gassed scenario. What's happening is that the bolt's rearward velocity and return speed is such that the spent case hasn't time to make it out of the ejection port when the BCG arrives on the return and traps it between the carrier and port window. The second round is trapped because the BCG's forward motion is stopped when the spent case is trapped. The solution? A stronger action spring and heavier buffer. If the rifle has a semi-auto bolt carrier, going to a FA carrier will slow the extraction cycle somewhat. Another alternative is to regulate gas pressure with an adjustable gas block or gas key, or to run lower-powered .223 ammo exclusively. You may be on to something. |
| Well... Issue may be completely different.... Factory new rounds are sticking the bolt just out of battery and tapping the forward assist sets the bolt forward. I can fire but does what I was describing. I don't think I've got an issue with my ammo or cleaning anymore. The rifle ran perfect the very first time out on factory ammo and reloads. I think my barrel extension may have gotten burs on it from cycle because I can see the bolt lugs are either just past or right on the edge of the barrel extension and I've got to tap the FA pretty hard to get it the rest of the way locked up. |
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