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Posted: 12/12/2015 5:03:54 PM EDT
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Had trouble with my 11.5" pistol not ejecting. I put an h2 buffer in it and now it runs fine. Took my 8.5" 300 black out to the range today and it's doing the same thing. Do you think I should try an h2 buffer in it also? Maybe I should add an o-ring to my extractor. I should have switched the buffer but there was a lot of people at the range and didn't want to monkey with it on the line.
P.S. It does lock back on a single round. 
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Quoted:
Had trouble with my 11.5" pistol not ejecting. I put an h2 buffer in it and now it runs fine. Took my 8.5" 300 black out to the range today and it's doing the same thing. Do you think I should try an h2 buffer in it also? Maybe I should add an o-ring to my extractor. I should have switched the buffer but there was a lot of people at the range and didn't want to monkey with it on the line. P.S. It does lock back on a single round. Failure to eject is normally an issue with the ejector or extractor. |
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If the bolt is locking back on the bolt catch after the last round has been fired out of the mag ( catch in front of the bolt face, and not just the catch on the bottom of the carrier instead), then the stroke is fine on the rifle and not the problem.
So step one, pull the charging handle all the way back, and make sure that the face of the bolt is not retracting back past of the back edge of the ejection port. The bolt face should stop about 1/8" to 1/4" in front of the back edge of the ejection port. Step two, break out a chamber brush with CLP to scrub the chambers by hand, get then dry, then take a good look at the chambers wall conditions. The chamber walls should be smooth as a mirror, with no reamer grooving or ridging. Step three, B/C in hand, hook a spent case on the extractor and cam the ejectors in a few times to make sure that they are not binding in the bolt face channels (just a hell of lot of spring tension to the ejectors instead. If the ejectors are binding in the channels, then the extractor need to be pulled, the channels/ejectors cleaned/debur'd, and reinstalled. Also take a good look at the roll pin for the ejectors, and if it bent, then replace the roll pins with new pins (and don't bend them during the reinstalled by not having the ejector side relief channel not indexed correctly with the roll pin channel on insertion). Step 4, extractor in hand, check the bottom outer edges of the grabbing claws for any milling burs that my need to be stoned off. You want to keep the claw sharp, and just remove the burs. Under the extractor claw is the rim releif channel for the case rim, and here you want to check the outer edges of the channel for milling burs that may no be allowing the case rim to fully seat in the channel. If found, small jewelers fine will knock these burs off easy enough. Now that this point, you can add in a #60 ring to add tension to the spring/extractor, but better to just get a Extra tension spring from the start to install isntead. Note, real M-4 extra tension spring and a O ring installed as well, often leads to lock up problems, since there is way too much tension on the extractor for it to be able to climb up and over the rim on on loading to allow the bolt to lock up correctly. Also, you used to be that you can trust that you have a Colt M-4 extractor spring by the black insert in the spring, but with so many supplies using black inserts in standard tension spring's now instead, best to just order a True colt packaged M-4 extra tension spring instead. You might luck out and get one still in the colt mil spec labeled package to confirm for sure that you did not get a clone spring, but it easy to tell if the spring is a true Colt M-4 extra tension spring to start with, 
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/extractor-parts/extractor-springs/extractor-spring-assembly-prod4840.aspx |
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