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Posted: 6/24/2016 6:31:18 AM EDT
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I bought my first ar15 last fall I believe. I bought a complete aero precision lower kit and complete 16" m4e1 5.56 upper with the 15" quad rail. I have a trijicon acog with quick detach, red dot on Daniel defense 1 o'clock rail, larue tactical hand stop, and a set of fold iron sights. I'm going to be building another ar15 soon but I'll get to that in a minute. The thing is with my gun is that it's heavy, I shoot good with it but it seems like there's so much extra weight that shouldn't be there. My thoughts are to take off the red dot and the 1 o'clock rail and switch out the handguard since the 15" quad rail is heavy compared to others out there. I was thinking a 9" KeyMod handguard would be good but wanted to see what your thoughts were.
I'm planning on purchasing parts for a new ar15 and the one I already own will be more for distance shootin, the one I'm going to be building next will be the opposite. I wanted some thoughts on barrel length, twist rate, manufacturer for CQ in a house, hotel, factory, etc but since I'm decent with iron sights would still like to be able to reach out to 75-100 yards. I will be putting iron sights co witnessed to the red dot I'm going to be taking off my current gun and will probably add a hand stop and flashlight. I will be piecing together the lower instead of buying a full kit and want to buy a good single stage trigger with a low pull weight for quick follow up shots so any input on that would be great. I may buy and upper kit minus the barrel but I'm not sure yet, aero precision has these http://aeroprecisionusa.com/upper-receivers/cop-uppers.html I might buy but I'm not sure. In the aero precision link I see under specs that some come in mid length and some carbine length, I'm not quite sure what that means and not sure how long the handguard itself is so any help is appreciated. |
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So you want a closer range rifle.
The shortest barrel you could legally go is 14.5" but then you have to weld a 1.5" flash hider on the end. Probably easier to just stick with a 16". 1/7 is military spec because they have to stabilize heavier tracers, but 1/8 or 1/9 will really stabilize anything you'd generally need to shoot. Don't get hung up on twist rate, it's really not that important unless you're shooting something super heavy or super light. Aero is a great manufacturer, but you don't *need* top tier quality if you're only looking to shoot 50-100yds. Anderson barrels are $90 and I've taken them out several hundred meters and put them under some pretty serious shooting conditions. Not the best, but fine for 90% of all shooters. Regarding triggers, I'd recommend a 3lb Velocity triggers if you're cost sensitive. Very good triggers. If you want top tier- Geissele is probably the "best" but you'll pay for it. Mid lengths vs carbine just refers to the placement of the gas block and how long your tube will need to be. Either will likely work for your case but mid length is generally a little softer on the recoil, all things being equal. The pic below shows them with the FSB, but you'll be using a free float tube (If I understand correctly) so you won't even be able to see it. 
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| Darn I forgot about the at least 16" barrel for a rifle law. I'm glad you said something before I started building, 16 inches it would be the best then. I have decent amount of cashed to throw into this build but that doesn't mean I have too. I'll probably go with the best single stage trigger with a low pull weight. 1:7 twist is most likely what I'll go with, I'll probably throw some money into a good barrel also, recommendations? I was thinking about a a silencer but I'm not sure, anyone use them or they something that is to much hassle to get for there performance? Handguard length is something I'm hung up on also, I was thinking about a 9" handguard for both but I'm not sure, what length do you guys use? I will most likely go with a free float design. I really like the quality of aero for everything really but would consider other options so any recommendations on anything for my build would be appreciated! |
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If you're comfortable with aero, I'd stick with them for the barrel. They're a really good manufacturer. Don't stress too much about the cut. Fluted is good for weight savings and heat dissipation, heavy barrels are better for accuracy and heat as well, and govt/m4 profiles are usually the cheapest. Your choice, I'd reccomended just the standard govt cut.
Regarding handguards, I'd go longer. The farther out you can reach, the more stable you'll be when you shoot unsupported. The only downside is extra weight, but if you're planning on a Keymod or mlok slim tube, the weight addition will be negligible. I reccomend 12". Can't give much insight on a suppressor since I'm from NY and were not allowed to have nice things. However, I hear 556 suppressor are worth it. |
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Depending on what you want to do with your barrel, you could give Faxon or Ballistic Advantage a look. Both make good barrels. Faxon is a great value and BA is usually a bit more but some say more accurate. Overall though with barrels, there are so many options out there it'll make your head spin. I'm of the opinion that Aero is good as well so if that's what you know and like, stick with them.
On suppressors, I think they're totally worth it. In my home state of MN, we just got suppressors legalized last year and I'm filing paperwork tomorrow on suppressor #8, #9 AND #10.  Keep in mind though that adding a 7-8" tube on the end of a 16" barrel will 1) make it front heavy and 2) make it long as hell.
My opinion is worth what you paid for it 
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