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Posted: 6/17/2024 8:46:37 PM EST
Any good way to fill in the picatinny slots on an upper so it appears to be an uncut blank?
Make this  Look like this  Will be refinished with cerakote/norrells/etc First thought was a 2 part epoxy. I don't think welding 7075 is advisable. It's for a just for fun project, as long as it will hold up to occasional range trips will be good enough. |
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Posted: 6/17/2024 9:05:55 PM EST
[#1]
Jb weld and a Dremel/file
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Posted: 6/17/2024 9:26:43 PM EST
[#2]
Quoted: Any good way to fill in the picatinny slots on an upper so it appears to be an uncut blank? Make this https://i.imgur.com/wLMI60j.jpeg Look like this https://i.imgur.com/aqXCiHI.jpeg Will be refinished with cerakote/norrells/etc First thought was a 2 part epoxy. I don't think welding 7075 is advisable. It's for a just for fun project, as long as it will hold up to occasional range trips will be good enough. Unlikely! It is difficult get a truly seamless appearance with unlike materials. Curious as to how you intended to mill down whatever you decided to build it up with 
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Posted: 6/18/2024 4:19:05 AM EST
[#3]
Devcon aluminum putty.
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Posted: 6/18/2024 4:43:39 AM EST
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Unlikely! It is difficult get a truly seamless appearance with unlike materials. Curious as to how you intended to mill down whatever you decided to build it up with With a mill  But that was another concern, if it could be made to look seamless. |
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Posted: 6/18/2024 6:22:10 AM EST
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Unlikely! It is difficult get a truly seamless appearance with unlike materials. Curious as to how you intended to mill down whatever you decided to build it up with J-B Weld. No harder than doing a good Bondo job on a car. - Fill - File - Sand - Rinse - Repeat until it is perfectly smooth When you're all done a good paint job and it will be indistinguishable from a solid block. I do wonder why you want to do such a thing, |
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Posted: 6/18/2024 8:22:28 AM EST
[#6]
If you want to do it yourself -- J B Weld, 2-part epoxy, or aluminum putty, followed by lots of sanding and repeating.
If you're serious -- Braceman 
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Posted: 6/18/2024 10:05:06 AM EST
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: J-B Weld. No harder than doing a good Bondo job on a car. - Fill - File - Sand - Rinse - Repeat until it is perfectly smooth When you're all done a good paint job and it will be indistinguishable from a solid block. I do wonder why you want to do such a thing, I've worked with both and bondo is not quite the same as JB. |
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Posted: 6/18/2024 12:19:10 PM EST
[#8]
If you are wanting to fill in the slots I assume you will not be attaching anything to them, correct? If so, just mill off the slots and top completely? I’ve had Paladin Machine Shop Services in Kershaw SC mill off most of the Pic rail on the so I only had the slots at the ends, like MI light rails. They did not offer light rails on the .308 forend so I had Paladin turn their regular fully slotted top rail into what I wanted.
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Posted: 6/18/2024 1:07:04 PM EST
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've worked with both and bondo is not quite the same as JB. But, you can get the same results . . . if you try. |
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Posted: 6/18/2024 2:02:25 PM EST
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If you want to do it yourself -- J B Weld, 2-part epoxy, or aluminum putty, followed by lots of sanding and repeating. If you're serious -- Braceman https://i.imgur.com/LBDM6H5.jpg I will email him. I thought welding 7075 was a no go ?? |
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Posted: 6/18/2024 2:03:36 PM EST
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: J-B Weld. No harder than doing a good Bondo job on a car. - Fill - File - Sand - Rinse - Repeat until it is perfectly smooth When you're all done a good paint job and it will be indistinguishable from a solid block. I do wonder why you want to do such a thing, Will probably try this. I have some scrap pic rail I can practice on. |
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Posted: 6/18/2024 2:44:07 PM EST
[#12]
Another vote for JB Weld, have used it many times for projects very similar to this.
Have also brazed aluminum before to add material in small areas, but i'd probably use JBW if I were filling in that much. |
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Posted: 6/18/2024 4:17:17 PM EST
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I will email him. I thought welding 7075 was a no go ?? If it is non-structural you shouldn't have problems, it is that the welds tend to crack under loading. But there are also new filler rods. |
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Posted: 6/18/2024 5:58:30 PM EST
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: But, you can get the same results . . . if you try. I think if milling the excess material a person may. But I have found when sanding, filler materials such as JB and hard base materials like steel and aluminum don't always sand the same and there may be slight ripples along the rail when the light is right. |
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Posted: 6/19/2024 3:39:56 PM EST
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I think if milling the excess material a person may. But I have found when sanding, filler materials such as JB and hard base materials like steel and aluminum don't always sand the same and there may be slight ripples along the rail when the light is right. Your waiting to long, and using too flexible a sanding block. JB weld takes a while to get to full hardness, if you file and sand at the right time, it cuts easily. And it you use an aluminum block to back your sand paper you won't get ripples. Can you tell where the cutter gabbed the aluminum and threw it across the shop? Or, the other place I screwed up? 
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