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11/29/2007 5:31:26 PM EDT
Hi all! I am just starting my first build am I would like to know what the best finishing products are. I have seen and heard a little about duracoat. Is it the best around
11/29/2007 6:08:54 PM EDT
[#1]
I think the best finish is when you send the parts off to US Anodizing, but if you can't or don't want to, I like Norrells.  Nice colors, good coverage, hard and durable, not too much buildup.  Also not too expensive, in the scheme of things.
11/29/2007 7:24:39 PM EDT
[#2]
I also vote for Norrells

Quoted:
I think the best finish is when you send the parts off to US Anodizing, but if you can't or don't want to, I like Norrells.  Nice colors, good coverage, hard and durable, not too much buildup.  Also not too expensive, in the scheme of things.
11/30/2007 8:02:11 AM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
Hi all! I am just starting my first build am I would like to know what the best finishing products are. I have seen and heard a little about duracoat. Is it the best around


Once you finish your machining, its best to anodize the lower, but its not required. Anodizing is actually a good surface to paint on if you want to do that later.  Not difficult nor expensive to set up your own home anodizing apparatus; do a google search on "Caswell Plating"  and check over at www.roderuscustom.tzo.com
12/1/2007 10:33:14 AM EDT
[#4]
Has anyone had any luck or experieince with Robar? I was going to do my lower and upper in their black rogaurd and all the internals bcg, trigger, etc, with NP3 any thoughts?
12/1/2007 2:50:18 PM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
Has anyone had any luck or experieince with Robar? I was going to do my lower and upper in their black rogaurd and all the internals bcg, trigger, etc, with NP3 any thoughts?


Yeah, have the inside of the upper MP3'd as well.  Everything wipes out.
12/1/2007 4:09:47 PM EDT
[#6]
height=8
Quoted:
height=8
Quoted:
Has anyone had any luck or experieince with Robar? I was going to do my lower and upper in their black rogaurd and all the internals bcg, trigger, etc, with NP3 any thoughts?


Yeah, have the inside of the upper MP3'd as well.  Everything wipes out.


I am sending them 2 sigs P228 and P220SAO and one ar, from what I have heard they do some of the best.
12/2/2007 10:06:37 AM EDT
[#7]
If you are machining the lower yourself, you really want to make sure it is anodized.  If you are assembling a lower that is already finished, but you want to change the color or go over it for a more even finish, I would use Norrells.  The thermal cures are a more durable finish, and more forgiving in their application than the epoxy finishes like DC.
12/2/2007 11:15:18 AM EDT
[#8]
+1 Norrells
12/7/2007 2:54:06 PM EDT
[#9]
Thanks guys for the responses, they are greatly appriciated! I will post some pics as soon as I am finished.
As I said before this is my first build, I bought the grendal 6.5 upper, a lmt sopmod stock, RRA lower parts kit, and an essential arms lower. Just wondering what everyones opinion might be on these parts. Thanks agian!
12/8/2007 8:09:49 PM EDT
[#10]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:
Has anyone had any luck or experieince with Robar? I was going to do my lower and upper in their black rogaurd and all the internals bcg, trigger, etc, with NP3 any thoughts?


Yeah, have the inside of the upper MP3'd as well.  Everything wipes out.


I am sending them 2 sigs P228 and P220SAO and one ar, from what I have heard they do some of the best.


IIRC, that is their exclusive finish.  NP3 and Roguard, which I believe is an epoxy type finish.  I have never considered it due to expense, but I will probably have my P7 NP3'd.  I bought it to shoot and want it to last.
12/9/2007 1:58:57 PM EDT
[#11]
I think it would be cool to rhino line or lineX a lower Call me weird but ud have a hell of a good grip and it could take some abuse:) plus it would look really unique.
12/9/2007 3:15:47 PM EDT
[#12]
I had actually thought about doing that to mine, but decided not to because the coating of that stuff is rather thick.
12/10/2007 2:30:54 AM EDT
[#13]
If you plan on just finishing the metal parts, go with Norells. It's as easy as making rice. If you want to do the stock, optics, etc. you can't beat DuraCoat (heating some plastic parts would be tragic).
Mark
12/11/2007 8:18:56 AM EDT
[#14]
Can I use Norells on my lower while it is assembled if I take the plastic stock off or do I need to dis-assemble it to apply the finish?
12/11/2007 8:43:38 AM EDT
[#15]
I have used Duracoat for nearly all my builds and it is great.  the only thing is once it cures it is pretty hard and works as a glue if you don't take things apart first.  I have gotten into the habit of giving all the parts a light coat after demilling them.  This helps ensure those metal to metal part contacts don't harbor rusting or corrosion that you can't get at once the rifle is assembled.  Whether you decide to bake it or give it the time necessary to cure once it has done so it is absolutely beautiful and very durable.  Applying it with an airbrush ensures you probably won't mess it up like you would if it were an aerosol.  Email me if you want to see various pictures (I wish I could afford to pay for a membership but can't seem to find it in my limited budget.
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