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Posted: 1/2/2012 8:28:12 AM EDT
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Hey Vets,
I'm about to try my hand at building my first AR15 and would like some help to make sure my parts list looks good and I'm going about it the right way. I guess I'm foolish enough to believe if I do it right the first time, I can avoid the Black Rifle Disease... (yeah right, but one can hope, right?) I just want to build a really cool gun that I can have a bit of fun with and chase a few hogs. And one that won't cause the wife to want to come after me with my own gun because of the price! 
Also, should I build my upper and lower myself or buy them constructed? I'm fairly mechanically inclined but have NO experience in building guns. I can strip and clean anything and have an engineering background (if that helps any). Thanks, vets!! I'll post pics when she's complete. Anyway, here's my list. If you see anything here that I should change or if I'm paying way too much, let me know please. I'm about to buy my lower this week. Aero Precision Upper - Should I buy stripped or constructed? Aerp Precision Complete Lower - I read that Aero makes most other companies lowers so I figured they were good. Rock River Bolt Carrier Group BCM Charging Handle Battery Assist Device Magpul Trigger Guard Ergo Grip Daniel Defense 1:7 Chrome Lined Carbine Length Barrel - I really need to know about this selection. Am I on track or have I missed horribly here? Single Rail Gas Block YHM Free Float Rails YHM Endcap Magpul Front Sights - I need a bit of help here too. Magpul Rear Sights - Ditto above. Magpul Angle Forward Grip AFG instead of Vertical Grip since I won't be strafing any buildings at a rapid rate of fire Optics I want to remove the flashlight from the grouping and mount underneath the barrel with the included pressure sensitive switch somewhere on the AFG Magpul Magazines I think these work well with the Aero Precision Lowers Fake Can Yeah, I know but I'm a newbie so cut me a little slack and hopefully it's the only "tacti-cool" thing I have |
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If I were you I would get just a plain low profile gas block.
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Yankee-Hill-Machine-Low-Profile-Gas-Block-yhm-p/yhm-9383%20gas%20block%20short.htm |
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Personally I'd go with a Full Auto BCG from AIM (Spikes) or the Plametto State Armory FA one. They are a little heavier and that helps with recoil and there are no disadvantage to having it.
Also, if you want a FF rail then go longer and run the Magpul front sight ta the end. So if you have a carbine gas barrel, run a 9, 10, 11, 12, ect.... length handguard. Seriously, skip the fake can and use the $40+ on upgrading to a longer handguard..... Where in Texas are you? |
| For the barrel: I have one of these. Purchased from Brownell's for $176.95 (So the free magpul magazine posted on the surplusammo.com site ain't free). It has everything you want (M4 feed ramps, chrome lined, 1-7 twiist, etc.). Only suggestion per feedback comments on Brownells site is to run a 1/16" bit through the gas port to ensure proper sized port. I did and noticed it was a little undersized. Since assembly, I have put ~700 rounds through it with no problems. |
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personally I would say go with a mid-length gas for the 16 inch barrel, just for recoil/reliability/life of components. But again, its kinda personal preference. Its not like a carbine length is going to blow up on you or anything.
I would say buy your upper assembled. If you have the motivation, buy the stripped lower and whatever parts you want in it and assemble that yourself. More customization that way, and really the FA and port cover aren't huge performance factors. As long as you can put round pins in round holes, and follow instructions you can generally assemble a lower. Especially with an engineering/mechanical background. Also, +1 on skipping the fake can. |
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Thanks for the info, especially the Full Auto BCG. I like that idea.
The reason for the carbine barrel and single rail gas block was to give it a certain look with the fake can. (I have a picture of it but can't figure out how to post pics here from my hard drive without having them online. Help would be good.) I think I'd like the look of an 11' or 12" on a 16" barrel. I like the look of shorter weapons so that might do the trick. I'm in Richardson, just outside of Dallas. Where are you? Thanks again. |
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Quoted:
Thanks for the help! I appreciate all the help I can get, especially on the constructed upper... I was a bit concerned about that one. I am also pretty mechanical inclined. I am in the process of recieving all my parts for my first upper build. I should have everything by the 13th. Check out http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=11011/learn/ they have great videos on how to install everything. I have watched these and read tons on this forum. Looks like it is pretty straight forward. Also in my research on the upper I found out the constructed upper is better. The cost is almost the same as the stripped upper. Quoted:
Aerp Precision Complete Lower - I read that Aero makes most other companies lowers so I figured they were good. Magpul Trigger Guard Ergo Grip Just a question but why would you buy a complete lower and change out the trigger guard and grip? Why not buy a stripped lower and put the parts you want in it? |
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Thanks, Georgia. I appreciate the help.
When you say constructed upper are you meaning just the upper with the BCG and FA constructed or the upper with the barrel, chargine handle and rails constructed? And on the lower, you're right. I really want a two stage trigger and the ergo grip with the trigger guard. I'll probably pickup a DPMS lower parts kit and go with that. Thanks for the help and post pics of yours when you're finished. |
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Quoted:
Thanks for the info, especially the Full Auto BCG. I like that idea. The reason for the carbine barrel and single rail gas block was to give it a certain look with the fake can. (I have a picture of it but can't figure out how to post pics here from my hard drive without having them online. Help would be good.) I think I'd like the look of an 11' or 12" on a 16" barrel. I like the look of shorter weapons so that might do the trick. I'm in Richardson, just outside of Dallas. Where are you? Thanks again. I'm in Austin. Consider finding the handguard you want and then picking a barrel in 14.5". Have the barrel nut for the handguard on and the low profile gas block and then have the flash hider welded on to get the full 16". I'd run a 12-13" handguard on it. I did something similar with a Samson Evo rail in 12.37". On a mid length 14.5" with pinned Phantom. makes for a handy, fairly light weight rifle. 
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3 things I would change or delete.
Get BCM auto BCG. Not saying the Rock River is bad I think the BCM is top notch. And the answer is no by putting a AUTO BCG in a Semi auto does not make it full auto or illegal. Forget about the BAD lever for now. Take a carbine course at a training facility near you and learn the "Manual of Arms" Wait on the optics. Learn your Magpul sites first. The optic that you have picked may be a descent one but again wait and get a used aimpoint on the EE or save up for a Aimpoint or eotech you will be better served. Fake can - bag it.... it just adds unneeded weight and bulk to your rifle. It might have some cool factor but not worth it. |
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Thanks for the info. I really appreciate it and will take your advice.
I looked at the Aimpoints and Eotechs and they are definitely expensive so the used route is a good way to go. However, I am a newbie and have a potentially dumb question... What is the EE? Thanks again. |
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Thanks for all the help. Now I have a new question...
For what I'm going to do with my rifle (hog hunting and range time), is there a marked difference in going with a 16" barrel versus a pinned 14.5" barrel? Will the accuracy suffer noticably? I don't the think the velocity of 14.5" barrel cause too much concern but if I'm wrong, please let me know. Again, thanks for all the help! |
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Dee,
EE is the equipment exchange (orange button top right of screen) A 14.5 barrel needs to have its muzzle device permanantly attached. That is good and bad all at the same time. Once you configure a 14.5 it is basically set. There is alittle wiggle room but not much You shouldn't see a significant loss of velocity from a 16" to a 14.5 inch barrel. For some people the 1.5 inches transitioning out of vehicle or moving within a dwelling makes a difference (LEO mainly) |
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Quoted:
Thanks, Georgia. I appreciate the help. When you say constructed upper are you meaning just the upper with the BCG and FA constructed or the upper with the barrel, chargine handle and rails constructed? And on the lower, you're right. I really want a two stage trigger and the ergo grip with the trigger guard. I'll probably pickup a DPMS lower parts kit and go with that. Thanks for the help and post pics of yours when you're finished. I was meaning an Upper Receiver with Forward Assist Assembly and Ejection Port Cover Assembly already on the receiver. Examples below. This is a stripped upper reciever 
This is one with the Forward Assist Assembly and Ejection Port Cover Assembly already on the receiver 
Quoted:
3 things I would change or delete. Get BCM auto BCG. Not saying the Rock River is bad I think the BCM is top notch. And the answer is no buy putting a AUTO BCG in a Semi auto does not make it full auto or illegal. Forget about the BAD lever for now. Take a carbine course at a training facility near you and learn the "Manual of Arms" Wait on the optics. Learn your Magpul sites first. The optic that you have picked may be a descent one but again wait and get a used aimpoint on the EE or save up for a Aimpoint or eotech you will be better served. Fake can - bag it.... it just adds unneeded weight and bulk to your rifle. It might have some cool factor but not worth it. I agree I have read mixed reviews of the Magpul Bad lever. I would start without it and add it later if you feel the need. Also I agree about the Optic. Learn with the Magpul Sites(I got these to for my new build) then save up for a good reliable optic. |
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For a dual purpose rig that hunts and plays at the range, I'd go 16" barrel with a 15" free float rail. I like the Troy TRX extreme myself, but MI makes a nice 15" free float as well.
I run a Vortex 2-7x on a 16" mid length barrel with 15" handguard. I have a bi-pod for it and use a Voltor Emod, it makes for a very comfortable shooter. On the x2 setting I can still clearly see at the 20-25yrd range and at 100yrds I can see the hits on paper. Soon as I can find a place to shoot I'll use it for hogs. Yes, I am a pic whore! 
Without the bi-pod it is fairly light and easy to handle. |
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Here's my suggestions:
Get a good quality lower parts kit like Daniel Defense, for more money maybe Colt, LMT are good too but hard to find. Bolt carrier group M16 full auto type from BCM, Daniel Defense, Colt, FN, Palmetto State Armory Premium, Rainier Arms Thunder Bolt, Spike's Tactical, etc., these are high quality mil-spec manufactured, fully tested high pressure tested (HPT) and magnetic particle inspected (MPI) bolts, also the gas keys are properly side staked. For free floating rails maybe get better ones that are stronger like LaRue Tactical (TX), Daniel Defense, Troy, Centurion Arms, Samson, etc. Fake can? 
No, don't be a poser, save some more money, pay the tax man and get a real sound suppressor. 
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