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Posted: 6/13/2016 4:06:05 PM EDT
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Good day!
I'm preparing to build my first AR, which will be my first tactical style rifle. I've been reading, digging and learning, but I'd like a quick review of my components list for both opinions and missing parts! I've decided one the 300BLK Trigger - Geissele SD-E Super Dynamic Trigger Enhanced Version AR-15, Barrel - Advanced Armament Co (AAC) AR-15 Barrel Assembly 300 AAC Blackout Stripped Lower - Spikes Tactical Meanstreak Billet Stripped Lower Chrg Handle - Raptor Charging Handle BCG - FailZero AR15 BCG, Semi-Auto Hammer Upper - Spikes Upper Receiver Billet Upper- Gen II (Mil Spec Barrel Nut) Rail - (12") ]Daniel Defense DDM4 Free Float Handguard Quad Rail AR-15 Aluminum Black Stock - Vltor EMod Basic Stock Assembly 5-Position Grip - Forward - VTAC Ultra Light Vertical Grip Aluminum Black Grip - Pistol - lFab Defense black AGR43 AGR-43 RUBBERIZED Lower Parts - Gen 2 Mod 2 Non-Rotating Trig/Ham Pins Pins & Springs - CMMG AR-15 Lower Pin and Spring Kit Mag release - DPMS Magazine Release Assembly Parts Kit Roll pin - DPMS Bolt Catch Roll Pin AR-15 Thanks for any help! -Eric |
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Quoted: I wouldn't do 300 blk as your first one. Good advice here. Get familiar with the AR platform in the more affordable and readily available 5.56 variety. If you find yourself wanting more you can always do a .300 BLK upper. .300 BLK really shines in suppressed SBR applications. |
It's so good to see the billionaires getting into firearms. It's really a great group to have on our side. 
Honestly though man, some of those components are needlessly expensive at no real gain. You're biting off a little more than you can chew I think with the 300blk and all the fancy stuff. You'll inevitably make some mistakes your first build, and you'll be ruining some damn fine hardware. I'll go line by line if you don't mine: Trigger - get a simple mil spec and learn how to shoot it. Barrel - just do 556; it will make your life so much easier. Go ahead and spend money here though, barrel is important Stripped Lower - all the lower does is hold the trigger group together. Billet is no better than forged. Spend $100 from a known company and be done. Chrg Handle - If you must have an extended CH, then go ahead. I think you'd be fine with a $12 no-name brand. BCG - FailZero AR15 BCG, Semi-Auto Hammer Upper - Again, no need for a billet. Just wasted money Rail - (12") ]DD quad rails are very expensive and only serve to keep your hands off the barrel. a $40 quad rail from ebay will do the job just the same. Stock - a cheaper one will do the job fine, but your choice. Grip - Forward - fine choice Grip - Pistol - Go ahead with rubberized if you must, but know that most tactical rifles are hard and smooth. Rubbery stuff clings and snags on clothes and gear. Lower Parts - just get a $50 LPK and be done with it. Anti-rotate pins are tremendously unnecesary on 99% of all ARs |
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wow, thanks of the quick responses!
I was wondering if the 5.56 might be a better way to start..sounds like a pretty string recommendation, so I'll adjust for that. @bes53181 - thanks so much for going through each item, I appreciate the advise.. I'm no m/billionaire, so savings will be good.. I want to 'do it right', but have no real interest in throwing away cash! |
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Your trigger is nice, but probably too light for a first. Get the SD-C if you want one that nice. Don't let anyone talk you out of a nice trigger if you have the money.
Anything but a mil-spec BCG is a waste of money in my opinion. Same goes for billet and ambidextrous, but that's a personal preference. Do not put KNS pins on a Geissele trigger. Watch Bill Geisseles install video and he will tell you why his supplied trigger pins are better, and KNS are soft and lead to troubles. He doesn't make any extra money by you using his pins, so I tend to take his advice. Why people spend all that money on a trigger just to ignore the advice of the man that designed it is beyond me. Not sure why you're parting out your LPK like that. There are plenty of complete kits for good prices out there. No issues with what you're doing, just more convenient options. I use the WOA LPK from Adco. Try to check out guns at a store to see what style grip feels the best. One may look cool, but the way it fits your hand is more important. After I picked up my first hogue all my grips were immediately switched out. <edit> You can save money on a rail, as others have stated, but a good rail is a good investment in my opinion. I like the way DD rails lock up, and I can tell it's quality and will last. FWIW, my first build also had a DD rail and a Geissele SD-C trigger, and I have no regrets. There are a lot of expenses in the AR world that I feel like are solely cosmetic, but a good rail and trigger aren't one of those things. I did, however, wait until the new generations of the Lite Rail came out so I could get an old one at a deep discount. |
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Take your time and think about what you are doing as you put it together.
I built my first, no bugger marks on it. And watch out for do overs. If you save $$ now and go back to do it how you wanted to later on... your gun just got that much more expensive. IMO do it how you think you want it the first time. Some of the stuff you have isn't really needed (like the billet recievers already mentioned) but if you want a certain rail now chances are you will still want it later. |
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Hey Eric... Solid parts lists. My recommendation would be to throw an optic on..aim point over eotech for me...had my eotech go out twice on me so I sold it. Miliary was apparently suing them as well since they seem to go out when they get over a certain temperature (which our guys overseas potentially see).
Vortex makes great scopes as well. I just picked up a Strike Eagle for my blackout. As far as people saying a 300blk is too much to chew for a beginner...this is nonsense.. still just an AR15. Blkout ammo is getting cheaper and cheaper .38$ per round I'm buying. I will say this though, a blackout shines in barrel lengths 9-10" so if you plan on SBR'ing, or potentially putting a silencer on, go 300blk. You can't make a 5.56 shoot subsonic but you sure as heck can make a 300blk shoot subsonic. If you plan on going with a full length barrel and want easier to find/cheaper ammo, go 5.56. Longer barrel will give you a more accurate shot. I'm not confident in my 300blk over 250yds. Very confident in my 5.56 up to about 600yds. Good luck and get a nice pinned gas block <edit> Quality parts make the difference though...don't cheap on the barrel or stripped upper as the face of the muzzle end where it makes contact to the barrel needs to be parallel and uniformly flat. If these two conditions are not met, you may see less than desirable accuracy. Check out SLRrifleworks.com for handrails...if you got the money xD. And agreed with another posters comments about getting a cheap LPK kit...I'd go Palmetto State Armory all the way here. I picked up a PSA MOE LPK w/o Fire Control (comes with magpul pistol grip and trigger guard) for $50 and a PSA 5.56 High pressure tested (HPT), Mag particle inspected (MPI),Chrome Lined Carrier (AUTO) premium bolt for $80 on sale. Hard to beat their sales, that bolt is now out of stock though... http://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-moe-lpk-w-o-fire-control-group-blk.html |
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