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Posted: 7/18/2016 6:17:32 PM EDT
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I have a good deal of experience with bolts (Rem 700, etc) and 12 gauges, and have shot an AR a handful of times, but am in no way proficient. I'm looking to buy my first one, and I have some questions (will be used for home defense/CQ).
Attributes in descending order of importance -Reliability/Ease of maintenance -Weight/Ergonomics -Accuracy/Range -Versatility/Upgrade Potential Requirements - 5.56 Chambered - Free-floating barrel - A4 upper - A2 barrel - Adjustable stock - Adjustable/flip sights (not a complete requirement but strongly preferred) All that said, what is optimal in terms of: - DI vs piston - Gas system - 16" vs 14.5" (ATF fee unimportant) - What buffer/spring type - Barrel - Chrome lined vs stainless (4140 vs 4150) - Best twist - Button vs CMV vs CHF - Bolt (chromed vs NiB) - Anything else you think it is important for me to know/consider I would prefer things on the less expensive side, but am willing to shell out a little more for a part IF it will significantly increased one of the desired attributes or save noticeable $$ in maintenance. Thanks |
| Skip all the frilly stuff. Buy a good quality basic mil-spec type AR with a chromed barrel, and a good quality Red Dot sight. A basic AR will be accurate, require only simple maintenance, and will be reliable. Learn how to maintain it and shoot it. Shoot 1000 rounds, consider taking an AR Carbine class, and then decide if anything needs changing. 14.5" would be nice, but 16" works for 99.5% of the other AR owners. |
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Buy this Aero Precision rifle from Brownells. Add your choice of furniture and a good red dot. Spend the rest of your $$$ on mags and ammo. Then start training. No need to over think it. Having a quality dependable trust your life on it rifle is not as nearly hard as a lot of people make it seem.
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-parts/receivers/lower-receivers/5-56mm-nato-oem-mid-length-16-rifle-sku100018335-81838-174289.aspx |
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Quoted:
Buy this Aero Precision rifle from Brownells. Add your choice of furniture and a good red dot. Spend the rest of your $$$ on mags and ammo. Then start training. No need to over think it. Having a quality dependable trust your life on it rifle is not as nearly hard as a lot of people make it seem. http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-parts/receivers/lower-receivers/5-56mm-nato-oem-mid-length-16-rifle-sku100018335-81838-174289.aspx +1 |
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Quoted:
All that said, what is optimal in terms of: - DI vs piston - Gas system - 16" vs 14.5" (ATF fee unimportant) - What buffer/spring type - Barrel - Chrome lined vs stainless (4140 vs 4150) - Best twist - Button vs CMV vs CHF - Bolt (chromed vs NiB) - Anything else you think it is important for me to know/consider I would prefer things on the less expensive side, but am willing to shell out a little more for a part IF it will significantly increased one of the desired attributes or save noticeable $$ in maintenance. Thanks DI vs piston - DI. It's tried and true. And when your enemy falls, his parts will work on your gun. Gas system - Carbine. Again, tried and true. 16" vs 14.5" (ATF fee unimportant) - Personal preference. 14.5" needs a pinned and welded muzzle device making it 16". Unless you want to wait months for a tax stamp. What buffer/spring type - Mil-Spec Carbine Barrel - Yup, need one. Chrome lined vs stainless (4140 vs 4150) - Chrome. Corrosion resistant, longer life and easier to clean. Best twist - 1:7 or 1:8. Both do well with common 55gr rounds. Button vs CMV vs CHF - In HD/CQC situations, I doubt it matters. So, user preference. Bolt (chromed vs NiB) - Chrome lined for certain. Just my opinions. I'm sure others will have their own. |
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Quoted:
DI vs piston - DI. It's tried and true. And when your enemy falls, his parts will work on your gun. Gas system - Carbine. Again, tried and true. 16" vs 14.5" (ATF fee unimportant) - Personal preference. 14.5" needs a pinned and welded muzzle device making it 16". Unless you want to wait months for a tax stamp. What buffer/spring type - Mil-Spec Carbine Barrel - Yup, need one. Chrome lined vs stainless (4140 vs 4150) - Chrome. Corrosion resistant, longer life and easier to clean. Best twist - 1:7 or 1:8. Both do well with common 55gr rounds. Button vs CMV vs CHF - In HD/CQC situations, I doubt it matters. So, user preference. Bolt (chromed vs NiB) - Chrome lined for certain. Just my opinions. I'm sure others will have their own. Quoted:
Quoted:
All that said, what is optimal in terms of: - DI vs piston - Gas system - 16" vs 14.5" (ATF fee unimportant) - What buffer/spring type - Barrel - Chrome lined vs stainless (4140 vs 4150) - Best twist - Button vs CMV vs CHF - Bolt (chromed vs NiB) - Anything else you think it is important for me to know/consider I would prefer things on the less expensive side, but am willing to shell out a little more for a part IF it will significantly increased one of the desired attributes or save noticeable $$ in maintenance. Thanks DI vs piston - DI. It's tried and true. And when your enemy falls, his parts will work on your gun. Gas system - Carbine. Again, tried and true. 16" vs 14.5" (ATF fee unimportant) - Personal preference. 14.5" needs a pinned and welded muzzle device making it 16". Unless you want to wait months for a tax stamp. What buffer/spring type - Mil-Spec Carbine Barrel - Yup, need one. Chrome lined vs stainless (4140 vs 4150) - Chrome. Corrosion resistant, longer life and easier to clean. Best twist - 1:7 or 1:8. Both do well with common 55gr rounds. Button vs CMV vs CHF - In HD/CQC situations, I doubt it matters. So, user preference. Bolt (chromed vs NiB) - Chrome lined for certain. Just my opinions. I'm sure others will have their own. If going 16 inch, use Mid-Length Gas System. If going 14.5 inch use Carbine-Length Gas System. CLGS can be finicky about buffer weights and springs and experimentation may be required to get reliable performance, MLGS are much more forgiving with the standard buffer and spring. Chrome plating is a bit of an over-kill for your purposes, nitride treated barrels are just as corrosion resistant, clean just as easily, and nitriding gives better corrosion protection to the outside of the barrel. Chrome plating shines when you are doing serious high volume shooting - full auto or semi-auto fast enough to get your barrel temperature up in the 400 - 500 degree range. Rifling twist? What is the weight of the heaviest bullet you plan on shooting? 1-7 is only required if you are going with 85 - 90 gr, or other really long bullets, 1-8 will handle almost anything lighter than that, 1-9 is usually limited to 69 gr bullets. (Since the twist required is based on overall projectile length, what weights are stabilized will vary slightly.) Quoted:
Buy this Aero Precision rifle from Brownells. Add your choice of furniture and a good red dot. Spend the rest of your $$$ on mags and ammo. Then start training. No need to over think it. Having a quality dependable trust your life on it rifle is not as nearly hard as a lot of people make it seem. http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-parts/receivers/lower-receivers/5-56mm-nato-oem-mid-length-16-rifle-sku100018335-81838-174289.aspx A very good suggestion. |
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Gas lengths should be as follows: 14.5": carbine 16-18": midlength 18"+: rifle This maximizes dwell time. This leads to longer life of components and a smoother recoil impulse. my 14.5" is a middy, do I get a trophy 
OP I would buy the Aero or piece something together with parts you like. Can't go wrong with Palmettos Premium line or something like a Windham upper on PSA lower, etc. |
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