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Posted: 1/8/2014 12:34:14 AM EDT
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So I have been looking at uppers and lowers and so far I am really like the SanTan Tactical ambi. lower(http://www.santantactical.com/stt-15-lower-reciever.html). but have also been looking at Nemo Arms matched upper and lower(http://store.nemoarms.com/ar15-tango-matched-receiver-set/).
Can anyone chime in on whether or not it would be better or not to get a matched set upper and lower for proper mating or does it not really matter as much? Does anyone have any experience with Nemo Arms. I havent had a chance to look at there uppers and lowers for there ar platforms other then there Omen .300 winmag which was done very nicely but pricey. I like the SanTan lower because it is an Ambi. And while I am right handed it is something that could always be useful or handy. Also does anyone have Rec. for triggers? I've been looking at Geissles SSA-E trigger but open to recommendations, and also differences with the normal, and flat faced triggers? Thanks |
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Quoted:
how about the SSA-E trigger Vs. Hipertouch 24c trigger? Any experiences or opinions? those who have used them what would you say is better? The Hipertouch is a single stage while the SSA-E is a two. Hypertouch is so new you'll be hard pressed to find a ton of reviews on it. As far as the SSA-E, you can always do what I did. Buy a flat faced one and a normal one and sell the one I like the least. |
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Start with SSA or SSAE, otherwise, you'll spend some money on something else, and either compromise (read: settle) or end up selling it for a significant loss somewhere (maybe even the E.E.) Just to
fund a proper trigger, like the SSA or SSAE. i honestly (probably will get bashed for this) can not tell a difference in the SSA and SSAE, but for 20$ more, it's better then wondering if the SSA wasn't enough the first time. If you want to try the flat trigger bow thing, go for it, some 1911 guys swear by flat triggers for the impression that trigger pull is "more consistent, feels lighter" I think they're for hipsters and mall ninjas, but hey, up until last year, I never owned a flat top upper. times are changing just not in the trigger world upper and lower matching is for just that, matched finish and appearance, unless you go billet, chances are the shape will be dead on (since there are only so many forgings to begin with) only slight differences in color from the metallurgy, temperature and process used for the parked finish. I have or have had colt, olympic, bushmaster, dpms, noveske, PWA, armalite, PSA, Aero, Eagle, and i'm sure even more i'm forgetting about. My favorite is my noveske gen 2, I really like the integral trigger guard and flared magwell. To each their own, if i was worried about weight, i would have stuck with a gen 1 offering. |
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Thanks for the feedback teeli.
Is there a benefit of a billet upper over a forged upper? same for a barrel forged vs ss. Also with barrels is there a benefit of barrels being fluted? Also what is minimum barrel length before it becomes an SBR. From my understanding you arent really allowed those in wa state. |
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Quoted:
Thanks for the feedback teeli. Is there a benefit of a billet upper over a forged upper? same for a barrel forged vs ss. Also with barrels is there a benefit of barrels being fluted? Also what is minimum barrel length before it becomes an SBR. From my understanding you arent really allowed those in wa state. You'll have to wait for a WA resident to chime in, i'm not affluent with WA state law. Stainless barrels, generally, last a long time and are the most accurate, but carry a price premium, and are heavy. CHF barrels are a tad bit cheaper, last even longer. they are accurate, but not like the stainless. With chrome lining, Most quality CHF barrels will last 40K+ rounds.. That seems to be the consensus. The "dirty 14" is over 40k on the original barrel, which is a BCM CHF. You can go any length, as long as your thread on break/flashhider is pinned/welded in place and brings OAL to 16" without any special stamp or paperwork. There are alot of options out there, if you plan on getting a suppressor in the future go ahead and pin/weld the appropriate QD mount, unless you want to go KAC or one that fits off an A2. some mfgs make 14.7" which with a standard A2 is 16" when pinned. BCM makes a 14.5 and offers an A2X or extended A2 which is longer than an a2 by .200, bringing the OAL correct without using oddball bbl lengths like the 14.7 They make barrels down to 5" or so, 10.3, 14.5 and 18" seem to be the most popular. If your not allowed SBRS but are allowed suppressors, a long enough suppressor could be perm-mounted to a 10.3 and make it non-sbr status. Billet is mostly appearance related. If you get a billet lower, you can used a forged upper and vice versa, although there may be some slight appearance differences. I use forged uppers on all my billet lowers and forged lowers. I don't even have a billet upper, although I plan on getting one to match my noveske gen 2 (vltor mur noveske marked) Lastly, Fluting, not so much. It DOES remove some weight. it DOES speed up cooling. If you really want to remove weight, keep the barrel profile thick and significantly increase surface area to improve cooling, Check out the barrels from nefarious arms/marvin pits at Site Sponsor/Industry Partner BOLTCARRIER.COM. ADCO offers this service as well, and is a sponsor/industry partner, however, they use a different pattern. It is the same as offered on KAC's top end guns. They are definatly sweet. Uses a ball-end on a cnc mill to dimple the barrel increasing surface area to dissapate heat faster, as well as remove (ALOT MORE) weight then fluting hope that answers your questions. If you have another, go ahead. |
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Thanks Again Teeli, yeah that helped cleared up some the questions, I'm sure ill have plenty more once I get into the build. So as far as Barrels if i get one under 16" I have to pin and weld? The barrels i have been looking at are wilsons combat, rainer arms and one other i forget off top my head right now. The rainer arms is 16" and wilson combat im looking at this one http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Wilson-Combat-Match-Grade-Barrel-556-NATO-Recon-SR-Tactical-147-1-7-Twist-Stainless/productinfo/TR-556RCS14/
Which is threaded for comp or suppressor, Which I like for interchanging them. I eventually plan on getting a suppressor. I plan on using either Lantacs Dragon brake or Precision Epsilon brake. Im not sure if any suppressors can just slide over those ones for quick attachment vs. threaded ones. |
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Nefarious Arms by Marvin Pitts - BoltCarrier.com
He's an industry partner here. If you contact him, via the Bolt Carrier forum under "Industry" above, You can ship any barrel to him, usually, and he can get the service done by marvin. He usually charges 125$ for the area under the handguard between upper receiver and gas block, then a nominal fee for bbl length from gas block forward. |
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Here is a 16" in stock
416R stainless, premium bbl ball end mill lightened. You can't go wrong with one of these. |
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You can also always contact BC regarding these bbls here
BC post on MP barrels |
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Quoted:
Thanks for the feedback teeli. Is there a benefit of a billet upper over a forged upper? same for a barrel forged vs ss. Also with barrels is there a benefit of barrels being fluted? Also what is minimum barrel length before it becomes an SBR. From my understanding you arent really allowed those in wa state. SBRs are not legal in WA. There have been/are some attempts at changing that, but it's unlikely they will be successful. Need an OAL (from closed bolt to end of barrel or perm attached muzzle device) of 16"+. |
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Thanks Mecca, I hope they change the law on that SBRs are nice, was hoping theyd be legal.
On another note earlier I mentioned the hipertouch trigger, I found a Review and video by fourguys guns who I have found to be good reviewers etc. Heres the link: https://www.fourguysguns.com/blog/whitey/hiperfire-trigger-review Let me know what you all think? and should I make this a new topic for the trigger to possible get more attention and feedback? Thanks everyone |
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