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Posted: 4/25/2005 6:15:42 PM EDT
Using Norrells, you always want at least 3 coats. Preheating will reduce or eliminate the drips and sags, which I agree, will totally ruin a finish. It turned out very nice. |
well it worked fine for the barrel but my upper receiver was all beat up i.e. old military A1 upper that lost most of its anodizing. I soaked it in acetone for couple of hours, then let it dried, then heated it in the oven at 300 F..then spray paint using my badger and socom flat black .At that time it looked fine (ie no dripping or bubbles...), then in the oven for 1 hour at 300F. Still look fine when out. Then I installed ejection door/FA/1rear sight but it was scratchin way too easily. Maybe because most of the anodizing was gone to start with. I dunno. ETA: maybe we can take in offline. Send me a pm with ur email, I'll send u pics if ur interested. Thanks for your help. |
doesn't look like it. better off staying black- black and OD are nice, but trying to paint "every other" part black and then every other green gets a little cluttered looking- almost like you are trying to have the most fun possible with the paint. I don't think the paint on the barrel will hold up to that bayonet though.. |
Thanks, and nice rifle! I did not disassemble the stock - only because I bent two punches trying to get the roll pin out of the lever assembly - what am I doing wrong here? I do want to "norrellify" the tube. |
Thanks - you're route seems to be slightly easier and less intrusive than pounding away with a hammer and punch. BTW thanks for all the great moly resin posts as well - we referenced your write-ups for this job. Already started on #2! |
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yeah, like stickman said- pull the stock all the way to the rear, release the latch and then pull it down away from the tube and pull off. I don't think anyone has been able to get the latch pin nut roll pin out without seriously damaging anything. I think it's there to be installed and left alone. there is absolutely no reason to remove it- you know that now. When I first tried to remove one, I ended up going from one tool to the next until I ended up with the dremel and then a drill and increasing diameter drill bits... You can't just buy the latch pin roll pin, latch pin nut, latch pin, latch pin spring or latch by themselves as far as I know. LMT sells them all in one package. I don't know any others that even sell that much... |
| Thanks for all the great feedback. Stock successfully disassembled (no hammering required per advice given) and buffer tube norrellified OD green to match. Much better! Oh, and 100 rds down-range to validate a successful re-assembly (success). Great feedback at the range too, even from the AR uninformed. The one thing I was not happy with was the finish on the mags. The mags were awfully "sticky" in the magwell with that finish and the finish on the mags didn't do so well (no harm done to the magwell finish). I think I'll try some of the brownells teflon-based stuff on the mags. |
nice looking rifle |
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