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AR15.COM
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10/21/2012 4:55:12 PM EDT
How'd I do?



10/21/2012 4:56:38 PM EDT
[#1]
looks good. How are you going to finish it?
10/21/2012 5:13:19 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
looks good. How are you going to finish it?


Thats a good question. Any suggestions?

I was thinking of either black high temp engine paint or I have a friend who can powdercoat it



10/21/2012 5:32:23 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
Quoted:
looks good. How are you going to finish it?


Thats a good question. Any suggestions?

I was thinking of either black high temp engine paint or I have a friend who can powdercoat it





I have read of guys using high temp paint with good results. Because its now going to be covered by a hand guard I wouldn't have a problem painting it. But If you have someone to powder coat it thats what I would choose. There is high temp stuff.  Just be careful because it adds a bit of thickness, don't get it inside.
10/21/2012 5:38:29 PM EDT
[#4]
Looks good, I just cold blued my last one and it is holding up great.
10/21/2012 6:01:48 PM EDT
[#6]
Looks really good!
10/21/2012 6:06:17 PM EDT
[#7]
Looks like factory
10/21/2012 6:56:15 PM EDT
[#8]


Thanks for the compliments guys

I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel and 120 grit sanding drum attachements. Finish sanded it by rubbing it on a fine drywall sanding sponge.

I highly recommend the reinforced dremel cutoff blades, I didnt even bother with the thin red ones that come in a tube.

I had some free time tonite so i took my time and spent about an hour on it. If I had to get it done a little quicker I would probably cut it down with a porta-band and take the heavy parts down with a bench grinder, then finish with the dremel. It was nice and relaxing to take my time and work it with a dremel though

10/21/2012 8:19:22 PM EDT
[#9]
You did a great job.
10/21/2012 8:48:08 PM EDT
[#10]
I like it.  Good work.
10/21/2012 8:54:53 PM EDT
[#11]
Saves a lot of work to just cut off the front ring entirely.  And that much lighter.
10/21/2012 10:12:46 PM EDT
[#12]
Damn that looks awesome. I've done two, not that nice. I just blued them. Maybe next time I have ADCO do some work for me I'll include my gas blocks and let them finish them while they're at it if they'll include them in the price.
10/22/2012 1:20:40 PM EDT
[#13]
Regular Powder Coat is not the best for high temp applications... I am not sure how hot the FSB gets, but I thought I would just throw that out there...





Ceramic coating would be good if you did not just end up doing something yourself...




 
10/22/2012 2:45:59 PM EDT
[#14]
Just parkerize it... do a search for "homebrew parkerizing site:ar15.com" and you can find the old threads... for a small part like that it would be simple.
10/22/2012 3:00:17 PM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
Looks good, I just cold blued my last one and it is holding up great.


Looks awesome.  OP, I'd also recommend just cold blueing it (based on what I've read on the Interwebs) and that's what they did at the local shop (chop & blue) and it works great / looks "good enough" since it's under handguards.  
10/22/2012 3:58:48 PM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Looks good, I just cold blued my last one and it is holding up great.


Looks awesome.  OP, I'd also recommend just cold blueing it (based on what I've read on the Interwebs) and that's what they did at the local shop (chop & blue) and it works great / looks "good enough" since it's under handguards.  


I've not been impressed with cold blueing as far as rust protection, maybe I've been doing it wrong

This block will be way under the FF rail so I dont want to chance rust

Going to look at the homebrew parkerizing thread now

10/22/2012 4:02:33 PM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Looks good, I just cold blued my last one and it is holding up great.


Looks awesome.  OP, I'd also recommend just cold blueing it (based on what I've read on the Interwebs) and that's what they did at the local shop (chop & blue) and it works great / looks "good enough" since it's under handguards.  


I've not been impressed with cold blueing as far as rust protection, maybe I've been doing it wrong

This block will be way under the FF rail so I dont want to chance rust

Going to look at the homebrew parkerizing thread now



You're right.  Bluing doesn't soak up oil like park so it tends to burn off.  Since its off the rifle just use some form of cerekote or a similar product (even grill paint) and bake it on in a toaster oven.
10/23/2012 4:48:56 AM EDT
[#18]
Hi Temp Engine paint....cheap and works very well.  Kudos to all the work you put into it.
10/23/2012 3:44:13 PM EDT
[#19]
I'm in the middle of finishing mine now.. I've cut a lot of material off, I've just gotta get some better sanding wheels for the dremel to finish it off.. I didn't realized how much I'd have to take off for it to fit under my vtac rail
10/23/2012 3:55:19 PM EDT
[#20]
Heat it with a propane torch ––-nothing stupid,just hot enough you can't pick it up barehanded––––and use cold blue on it.When it cools down enough to handle rub the surface with fine steel wool.Repeat as necessary to get the color you want and then rub with steel wool and light oil.
10/25/2012 6:57:20 AM EDT
[#21]
Quoted:
Heat it with a propane torch ––-nothing stupid,just hot enough you can't pick it up barehanded––––and use cold blue on it.When it cools down enough to handle rub the surface with fine steel wool.Repeat as necessary to get the color you want and then rub with steel wool and light oil.


I did an old Remington single shot .22 barrel in a very similar fashion to what you recommended, except instead of a torch I used a heat gun. I still wasn't impressed with the rust protection. Are some brands of cold blue better than others? I used birchwood Casey

The homebrew parkerizing looks good except it seems like a hassle for just the one small part

Kind of the same with some of the other coating methods, seems like a waste to buy some of the other products when I only need a tiny bit

So pending info further info on the hot/cold blue method I'm holding off, I'm waiting on a LPK from PSA so I'm sure I have plenty of time to figure this out

Front runners at this point are grill or engine paint
10/25/2012 8:05:36 AM EDT
[#22]
i used "black magic" by kleenbore on my chopped FSB, finish is fantastic on it and it looks factory. BTW beautiful job on the FSB if your going to use a cold blue make sure to dull that shine down or it may not take as well.
10/25/2012 12:53:25 PM EDT
[#23]
Quoted:
i used "black magic" by kleenbore on my chopped FSB, finish is fantastic on it and it looks factory. BTW beautiful job on the FSB if your going to use a cold blue make sure to dull that shine down or it may not take as well.


I've had good looking and deep colored results with cold blue even with a very shiny finish on the metal. What I figured out is it takes much better if you heat the metal as DH recommended in an earlier post  Only difference is I used a heat gun vs. a torch. Only issue
I've had is it doesn't seem to hold up to rust unless you are very careful to wipe it down. Since it will be well under the rail I won't be able to do much with it after the fact.
10/25/2012 3:04:39 PM EDT
[#24]
FSB is curing in toaster oven as I type this. Went with a high temp flat black. Have my fingers crossed, if it doesn't take I'll just strip it and try again.
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