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6/23/2005 10:44:30 AM EDT
NOOB question:

I just bought an AR and the bottom of the A2 suppressor (without ports) is pointing to 4 o'clock instead of straight down.  The barrel is threaded and the A2 is screwed on, but I wasn't sure if there's a lock nut involved or if it's just the suppressor screwed onto the end of the threaded barrel.  Is there a way I can adjust this?
6/23/2005 10:48:53 AM EDT
[#1]
You can probably put a crush washer in there to widen the distance so you can adjust it hopefully at least 1/2 a turn and still have a good tight fit.
6/23/2005 11:32:58 AM EDT
[#2]
Thanks sensamecca.  How do most A2s get lined up correctly?  Is it a matter of the barrel being threaded correctly?  It sounds like my barrel threads may be misaligned, is that correct?
6/23/2005 11:51:18 AM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
How do most A2s get lined up correctly?


Most AR manufacturers use a crush washer.

Is it a matter of the barrel being threaded correctly?  It sounds like my barrel threads may be misaligned, is that correct?

Even if they are misaligned the crush washer would allow you to correct for it.  I'm assuming you mean misaligned by threads started at diffreent o'clock positions on the barrel, which is normal.  There's no standard for where the threads begin.
However, if you mean misaligned by threads not running parallel with the bore, which would put the flash hider unparallel with the bore, then you have a screwed up barrel!
6/23/2005 12:15:58 PM EDT
[#4]
Thanks boom_stick.  I probably have a crush washer in there, or if I don't, I can add one.  

Is there any special protocol for removing the flash suppressor?  What tools would you suggest for the job?  

Also, is the crush washer something I just pickup at the local hardware store, or is it something made specifically for use on a rifle?

THANKS!
6/23/2005 12:21:26 PM EDT
[#5]

I probably have a crush washer in there, or if I don't, I can add one.
At the rear of the hider you should see a washer.  It is either thin and silvery (a peel washer) or is about 1/8" thick and normally blued or blackened (a crush washer).  If you have a crush washer then you can tighten it to alignment.  You only need to replace the crush washer if you need to loosen the hider for alignment.


Is there any special protocol for removing the flash suppressor?
 Righty-tighty.  Lefty-loosey.


What tools would you suggest for the job?  
See the flat spots at the rear of the hider?  I usually use a crescent wrench but any open end wrench the right size will work.  
6/23/2005 3:31:43 PM EDT
[#6]
Make sure to point the crush washer with the narraw end towards the rifle (fatter end towards the A2).

6/26/2005 2:38:29 AM EDT
[#7]
concave face of the washer toward the muzzle
6/26/2005 11:34:31 AM EDT
[#8]
I believe the correct wrench to use would be the 3/4 inch.  Put some electrical tape on the surface of the wrench so you won't scratch the FH.
6/26/2005 11:36:42 PM EDT
[#9]
the correct wrench is the USGI armorers wrench, I have yet to find a standard wrench that is narrow enough to not rub on the washers (crush or peel) when the FS is tightened. the crush washer is particularly irritating in this regard.
6/26/2005 11:41:37 PM EDT
[#10]
Be careful if you use a crescent wrench. They are chrome plated, which is a harder surface than your parked/phosphated hider. (itll scratch it)..
6/27/2005 12:49:28 AM EDT
[#11]
Some still use a peel washer.  You adjust the timing of the supressor by carefully peeling off the thin layers until it is correct.  If you peel off too many, you can always put the back on.

6/27/2005 9:12:28 AM EDT
[#12]

Quoted:
the correct wrench is the USGI armorers wrench, I have yet to find a standard wrench that is narrow enough to not rub on the washers (crush or peel) when the FS is tightened. the crush washer is particularly irritating in this regard.


Just takes some shopping around.   Or, failing that, getting a cheap wrench and using a gringer to make it thinner.

Given a choice between a normal wrench that is too thick, or a combo multi super tool thing that is also too thick and has a less precisely cut opening or a GI wrench that has an opening that is out of square to the wrench and won't stay in palce when you put pressure on it, I'll take a normal wrench.
6/27/2005 10:00:01 PM EDT
[#13]
I've never had a problem with mine, FSs are the only reason I keep the old GI wrench around anymore.
6/27/2005 10:08:17 PM EDT
[#14]

Quoted:
I've never had a problem with mine, FSs are the only reason I keep the old GI wrench around anymore.


Maybe mine is just cheap.  It was stamped from a piece of 1/4" steel and from looking at the opening it looks like the stamp was getting dull.  All of the openings are wider along one face of the tool than the other which makes it useless as anything but a barrel wrench.  They are also slightly oversized so they don't get a good fit on anything.

I -think- I bought it from BM but I've had it for 8 or 9 years now and can't remember.  Next time I'm at a gunshow I'll take a look at what's being sold and see if anybody sells anything more precisely made.
6/27/2005 10:34:25 PM EDT
[#15]
mine's from the arms room but it's wobbly enough that I never liked using it for barrel installs, the FSs rarely need a similar amount of torque tho.

are the exterior edges of yours very square, almost sharp?
6/28/2005 10:39:22 AM EDT
[#16]

Quoted:
mine's from the arms room but it's wobbly enough that I never liked using it for barrel installs, the FSs rarely need a similar amount of torque tho.

are the exterior edges of yours very square, almost sharp?


Nope, rather rounded.  Very much looks like it was stamped out of a cold piece of 1/4" steel, and looks like the stamp was getting dull.  Rounded edges, slight deformation causing so the edges are not square to the tool, etc.  The only hole that is 'right' is the round opeing for the barrel, and that's because I used a drum sander to open it up so it would fit over a very thick bull barrel.
6/28/2005 10:47:33 AM EDT
[#17]
I installed my crush washer backwards. Concave facing the FS.
6/28/2005 12:01:57 PM EDT
[#18]

Quoted:
Some still use a peel washer.  You adjust the timing of the supressor by carefully peeling off the thin layers until it is correct.  If you peel off too many, you can always put the back on.




I prefer peel washers myself...  Don't know why really, just like the way it looks and snugs up better...

- AG
6/29/2005 12:19:03 AM EDT
[#19]

Quoted:
Nope, rather rounded.



wild, that's a correct one, the cheapies are very square.

metroplex,

the concave side does go toward the flash suppressor
6/29/2005 1:01:11 AM EDT
[#20]
Tweak: If you look at it from the muzzle end, you're looking at the convex part of the crush washer so I have it backwards from what everyone else has.
6/29/2005 1:38:41 AM EDT
[#21]

Quoted:
Concave facing the FS.



that is the correct way
6/29/2005 1:49:14 AM EDT
[#22]
What happens if the taper touches the FS instead of the barrel?
6/29/2005 2:31:32 AM EDT
[#23]
nothing comes to mind, perhaps there is a concern about the washer rubbing on the threads as it is tightened
6/29/2005 2:58:17 AM EDT
[#24]
I don't have the FS completely crushing the washer so that the washer becomes "flat". I can still see the taper because I simply hand-tightened it until it snugged down, then timed the FS. I didn't torque it to the 23&P specs.
6/29/2005 8:35:58 AM EDT
[#25]

Quoted:
I don't have the FS completely crushing the washer so that the washer becomes "flat". I can still see the taper because I simply hand-tightened it until it snugged down, then timed the FS. I didn't torque it to the 23&P specs.

Unless your copy of 23&P covers the crush washer, those specs are for the peel washer and don't apply anyway.  With a crush washer you have to torque it down so it won't come loose, but a crush washer works as a lock washer to keep it from coming loose.

You installed it correctly.
6/30/2005 9:59:02 PM EDT
[#26]

Quoted:
mine's from the arms room but it's wobbly enough that I never liked using it for barrel installs, the FSs rarely need a similar amount of torque tho.

are the exterior edges of yours very square, almost sharp?


Messing around with the camera and took a pic of the slot for the flash hider.  There's a ridge of harder metal around the top, you can see it shining where the finish rubbed off at the rear of the slot, and the porous area below that is concave, causing the sides that contact the flats on the hider to not be square, as you can see.

When I was messing around with it one of the pins fell out.  Definitely time for a new wrench.
6/30/2005 11:18:30 PM EDT
[#27]
that wrench don't look like mine, I think it's one of the myriad copies out there. I see what ya mean.
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