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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Froglube Question (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 3/21/2014 10:19:21 AM EDT
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I have a question regarding frog lube. Let's say I have a brand-new A.R., and I want to get it all cleaned up and ready for the range. I know first to get it all wiped down get all the oils off and everything. I would wipe down the bolts barrel etc. with some rubbing alcohol to get any of that stuff off. Then my plan would be to heat up the bolt carrier etc. barrel, action. Apply the frog lube to all that, waiting hour, wipe it off.
What about the outside of the AR? Like the lower receiver, the outside of the barrel. Do you put any protectant on that or is just wiping it down and keeping it nice and clean sufficient? I would think if I put frog lube on those parts then it would get all oil lease, greasy when firing and then I would slip all around. Thoughts? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Quoted:
I have a question regarding frog lube. Let's say I have a brand-new A.R., and I want to get it all cleaned up and ready for the range. I know first to get it all wiped down get all the oils off and everything. I would wipe down the bolts barrel etc. with some rubbing alcohol to get any of that stuff off. Then my plan would be to heat up the bolt carrier etc. barrel, action. Apply the frog lube to all that, waiting hour, wipe it off. What about the outside of the AR? Like the lower receiver, the outside of the barrel. Do you put any protectant on that or is just wiping it down and keeping it nice and clean sufficient? I would think if I put frog lube on those parts then it would get all oil lease, greasy when firing and then I would slip all around. Thoughts? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Way to much work. Hoppe 9 number clean out bolt barrel and inside of receiver. Lube up bolt and carrier. Outside of receiver no need to do anything it is anodized aluminum it will not rust the more lube you put on the outside the more shit that sticks to the outside. Do not overthink it just keep your bolt well lubed and shoot the thing. I use mobil 1 syn motor oil way cheaper than frog lube and you can get a quart of it at wally world for 6 bones. |
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Read
It works.. I do it on a lot of parts... it really does absorb. I've swapped to Fire Clean now as the superior cleaner / lube / all in one. But I still frog lube many parts. |
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OP you mentioned rubbing alcohol, I personally wouldn't use that I would use 91% isopropyl alcohol it has less h2o and a higher alcohol content which will dry faster without the added stuff IMHO. Also wear protective gloves, eye pro and be in a well ventilated area safety first |
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Don't forget the barrel. Sometimes there's stuff in the bore to prevent rust.
Run a couple of patches with your favorite cleaner or lube through there to get it clean. Also, sometimes there's little shavings from drilling the gas hole in the bore as well. Want to get rid of those also. |
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Read It works.. I do it on a lot of parts... it really does absorb. I've swapped to Fire Clean now as the superior cleaner / lube / all in one. But I still frog lube many parts. Well, I can't bake my lower because it has all the parts on it. You put all of that in a oven? What about your barrel how do you treat that? |
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Quoted: Well, I can't bake my lower because it has all the parts on it. You put all of that in a oven? What about your barrel how do you treat that? Quoted: Quoted: Read It works.. I do it on a lot of parts... it really does absorb. I've swapped to Fire Clean now as the superior cleaner / lube / all in one. But I still frog lube many parts. Well, I can't bake my lower because it has all the parts on it. You put all of that in a oven? What about your barrel how do you treat that? I've used a heatgun in the past |
| I put everything on the dash of my truck for about an hour. It gets everything plenty hot. YMMV. I put it everywhere, inside and out. Let stand for an hour and wipe it off with a microfiber cloth. I treat the bore too and run dry patches on the chamber brush and bore snake through the bore. Do this x3. 15 AR's and 2 years later, no problems except the shit is expensive. Use the liquid, on a hot barrel, right after shooting to clean. I may transition to a less expensive option but for now I've had good luck. |
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Yes. I have treated pistols before. I do the 3x treatment. Heat, treat, shoot, clean, heat, treat etc. Then, after 3x I just clean each time until it is not slick anymore than I treat as a new gun
I am just trying to figure how to get the barrel sufficiently hot. I guess remove hanguards and heat with blow dryer then treat? |
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Long story short, a Marine here in Afghanistan decided he wanted to show me this awesome froglube stuff, and put some on my rifle.
It taught me all I need to know about frog lube. CLP is all i've ever used at home, still all I'll use for now. BTW, WTF is up with this crap about heating up guns before you take them to the range? |
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Long story short, a Marine here in Afghanistan decided he wanted to show me this awesome froglube stuff, and put some on my rifle. It taught me all I need to know about frog lube. CLP is all i've ever used at home, still all I'll use for now. BTW, WTF is up with this crap about heating up guns before you take them to the range? I use frog lube, I used it on my brand spanking new pistol build. I don't bake or otherwise cook it on. No failures to date. |
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I use frog lube, I used it on my brand spanking new pistol build. I don't bake or otherwise cook it on. No failures to date. Quoted:
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Long story short, a Marine here in Afghanistan decided he wanted to show me this awesome froglube stuff, and put some on my rifle. It taught me all I need to know about frog lube. CLP is all i've ever used at home, still all I'll use for now. BTW, WTF is up with this crap about heating up guns before you take them to the range? I use frog lube, I used it on my brand spanking new pistol build. I don't bake or otherwise cook it on. No failures to date. This is always the justification for wonderlube of the month. I bet I could keep my AR running perfectly on spit and sewing machine oil. Doesn't make it a good lubricant. |
| I had some problems with froglube gumming up the inside of my AR after using it for awhile so I stopped using it. Went back to Slip2000 though I am interested in trying Fireclean. I started out using Breakfree CLP and until I switched to Slip2000. I basically test a cleaner in only one gun for awhile until I trust it and then I applying it to the rest of my guns. That way if it creates a problem its only in one gun vs all of my guns. |
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Quoted: And yet cheap CLP has worked for the military for many decades, and all I have ever used. I will never understand the fascination with miracle lubes. Especially the ones that cause failures. |
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if youre going to use frog lube, follow the instructions, and all will be well.
Yes, you can use it on the outside of the receiver. as long as you wipe it off after it cools, it will not be gooey. It will feel like a waxed and buffed car. Many people have failures because they usually apply more FL than they would conventional oil, and then they dont wipe it all off with the towel... Like the directions say. I use a heat gun. Takes 2 seconds to heat up a part enough. Doesnt take long to heat up the barrel either. After a few treatments in the begining, i no longer have to do a thorough clean after every trip. I can wipe the carbon off and only redo the FL after about 1k rounds.. and even then its quick and easy. I like it because its not toxic, and its not all running out through the cracks and cokeing up with the carbon like oils do. Remeber, wipe it all off so it feels smooth and dry.. The bolt will be wet when you need it to be. |
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correct. another heat. "seasoning" is all done by that point. heating pulls it out of the pores and makes the carbon real loose. Think of it as changing the oil like you would a car. just heat up, reaplly, let cool, wipe.
If you bring some to the range and add some on the bolt after you have fired a few rounds, it will speed up the initial treatment. Add a patch down the bore too after youve shot and finished for the day while its still hot. Leave it in there until you get home then run a new patch to clean and a dry one after. (this is just in the beginning, not all the time) After about 3 fire sessions, and heat/clean.. it will be good to go, "seasoned". You will find you just have to wipe with a cloth and some pointed q-tips. Clean bore as normal. I need the brushes less and less.. no poison so i can smoke a cigar while i clean.. Not miracle juice, but works as instructed. |
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I think I got it. Similar to what I do with my handguns. Initial application with heat, shoot, generally when I get home I heat again, clean carbon, reapply. Shoot, heat, clean, reapply. One more cycle of this.
Then, after the first 3, after shooting, just wipe down (I usually heat though to get all the gunk out) and patch/brushes in bore. After 1,000 rounds or so, or when it doesn't sweat like it used to, heat, re-apply and then drive on. No need to apply between initial applications and this point in your opinion? Sound right? |
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I think I got it. Similar to what I do with my handguns. Initial application with heat, shoot, generally when I get home I heat again, clean carbon, reapply. Shoot, heat, clean, reapply. One more cycle of this. Then, after the first 3, after shooting, just wipe down (I usually heat though to get all the gunk out) and patch/brushes in bore. After 1,000 rounds or so, or when it doesn't sweat like it used to, heat, re-apply and then drive on. No need to apply between initial applications and this point in your opinion? Sound right? yup, sounds right |
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yup, sounds right Quoted:
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I think I got it. Similar to what I do with my handguns. Initial application with heat, shoot, generally when I get home I heat again, clean carbon, reapply. Shoot, heat, clean, reapply. One more cycle of this. Then, after the first 3, after shooting, just wipe down (I usually heat though to get all the gunk out) and patch/brushes in bore. After 1,000 rounds or so, or when it doesn't sweat like it used to, heat, re-apply and then drive on. No need to apply between initial applications and this point in your opinion? Sound right? yup, sounds right Thanks! Do you generally heat before cleaning at home for regular cleanings? Just curious as I would imagine it would bring the dirt to the surface better. |
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This is always the justification for wonderlube of the month. I bet I could keep my AR running perfectly on spit and sewing machine oil. Doesn't make it a good lubricant. Quoted:
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Long story short, a Marine here in Afghanistan decided he wanted to show me this awesome froglube stuff, and put some on my rifle. It taught me all I need to know about frog lube. CLP is all i've ever used at home, still all I'll use for now. BTW, WTF is up with this crap about heating up guns before you take them to the range? I use frog lube, I used it on my brand spanking new pistol build. I don't bake or otherwise cook it on. No failures to date. This is always the justification for wonderlube of the month. I bet I could keep my AR running perfectly on spit and sewing machine oil. Doesn't make it a good lubricant. But this does: Here is the 4-ball wear data. SCAR on FrogLube is 0.5766mm, compared to 0.8mm for CLP, and 0.56mm for SLIP2000. Mil-spec for an oil for firearm use is 0.8mm, and for a grease, 0.6mm. |
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Froglube is some epic retarded shit. If you don't remove it, it gums up and the gun won't work. Why put the shit on in the first place?? ![]() Froglube is the modern version for guns that "Slick-50" Teflon oil additive was in the 90's. It's neat. There is science behind it. When applied properly it shouldn't hurt anything. But overall it is an epic waste of time applied by people who regularly waste time and money, chasing a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. |
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To each their own. Some love it and some hate it. I love the stuff. I put it on thick as hell (as seen in this pic) and have ran thousands of rounds through my AR's and pistols using froglube with zero problems. After a few shots it gets warm enough to turn to more of a liquid and it performs amazingly. http://i.imgur.com/Z6rYvIL.jpg You do realize, that where you show all that gunked up lube - only 10% of those surfaces need the actual lubricant, and the rest is doing nothing but collecting carbon? |
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You do realize, that where you show all that gunked up lube - only 10% of those surfaces need the actual lubricant, and the rest is doing nothing but collecting carbon? Quoted:
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To each their own. Some love it and some hate it. I love the stuff. I put it on thick as hell (as seen in this pic) and have ran thousands of rounds through my AR's and pistols using froglube with zero problems. After a few shots it gets warm enough to turn to more of a liquid and it performs amazingly. http://i.imgur.com/Z6rYvIL.jpg You do realize, that where you show all that gunked up lube - only 10% of those surfaces need the actual lubricant, and the rest is doing nothing but collecting carbon? Like I said - thousands of rounds with no issues. And carbon isn't an issue. It wipes right off. One of the pluses of froglube is it penetrates the metal making carbon cleanup super easy. And as I said, after just 3-4 shots, it spreads itself and it's not on there that thick. It turns to more of a liquid than the paste you see. I'll continue to use it how it has been working for me. |
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I hope you are satisfied with your original question, OP. There is a lot of non answers and general jack wagoning on your topic.. Ahh well.
It's been working great for me on my guns. I've done many cleanings and I'm about half way through my original purchase of 4oz paste and liquid. After conditioning, a little goes a long way. If it turns out not working for you, fear not. It's a lot easier to stop using it than it is to stop being an ass in public. |
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I hope you are satisfied with your original question, OP. There is a lot of non answers and general jack wagoning on your topic.. Ahh well. It's been working great for me on my guns. I've done many cleanings and I'm about half way through my original purchase of 4oz paste and liquid. After conditioning, a little goes a long way. If it turns out not working for you, fear not. It's a lot easier to stop using it than it is to stop being an ass in public. Helping someone stay away from a huge waste of time and money in snake oil that will only make his weapon fail, is not being an ass. It is being a good neighbor. You are the one who resorted to name-calling in this thread. Pot, meet kettle.
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Helping someone stay away from a huge waste of time and money in snake oil that will only make his weapon fail, is not being an ass. It is being a good neighbor. You are the one who resorted to name-calling in this thread. Pot, meet kettle.
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I hope you are satisfied with your original question, OP. There is a lot of non answers and general jack wagoning on your topic.. Ahh well. It's been working great for me on my guns. I've done many cleanings and I'm about half way through my original purchase of 4oz paste and liquid. After conditioning, a little goes a long way. If it turns out not working for you, fear not. It's a lot easier to stop using it than it is to stop being an ass in public. Helping someone stay away from a huge waste of time and money in snake oil that will only make his weapon fail, is not being an ass. It is being a good neighbor. You are the one who resorted to name-calling in this thread. Pot, meet kettle.
So why has Froglube never made any of my AR's or pistols fail? |
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So why has Froglube never made any of my AR's or pistols fail? Quoted:
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I hope you are satisfied with your original question, OP. There is a lot of non answers and general jack wagoning on your topic.. Ahh well. It's been working great for me on my guns. I've done many cleanings and I'm about half way through my original purchase of 4oz paste and liquid. After conditioning, a little goes a long way. If it turns out not working for you, fear not. It's a lot easier to stop using it than it is to stop being an ass in public. Helping someone stay away from a huge waste of time and money in snake oil that will only make his weapon fail, is not being an ass. It is being a good neighbor. You are the one who resorted to name-calling in this thread. Pot, meet kettle.
So why has Froglube never made any of my AR's or pistols fail? Because you live in Louisiana. Throw that FL in the freezer for a day then come back and tell us what you got. |
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Because you live in Louisiana. Throw that FL in the freezer for a day then come back and tell us what you got. Quoted:
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I hope you are satisfied with your original question, OP. There is a lot of non answers and general jack wagoning on your topic.. Ahh well. It's been working great for me on my guns. I've done many cleanings and I'm about half way through my original purchase of 4oz paste and liquid. After conditioning, a little goes a long way. If it turns out not working for you, fear not. It's a lot easier to stop using it than it is to stop being an ass in public. Helping someone stay away from a huge waste of time and money in snake oil that will only make his weapon fail, is not being an ass. It is being a good neighbor. You are the one who resorted to name-calling in this thread. Pot, meet kettle.
So why has Froglube never made any of my AR's or pistols fail? Because you live in Louisiana. Throw that FL in the freezer for a day then come back and tell us what you got. Either way, it's going to get hot enough to thin out and turn into a liquid once you shoot a few rounds... |
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Quoted: Either way, it's going to get hot enough to thin out and turn into a liquid once you shoot a few rounds... Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I hope you are satisfied with your original question, OP. There is a lot of non answers and general jack wagoning on your topic.. Ahh well. It's been working great for me on my guns. I've done many cleanings and I'm about half way through my original purchase of 4oz paste and liquid. After conditioning, a little goes a long way. If it turns out not working for you, fear not. It's a lot easier to stop using it than it is to stop being an ass in public. Helping someone stay away from a huge waste of time and money in snake oil that will only make his weapon fail, is not being an ass. It is being a good neighbor. You are the one who resorted to name-calling in this thread. Pot, meet kettle. ![]() So why has Froglube never made any of my AR's or pistols fail? Because you live in Louisiana. Throw that FL in the freezer for a day then come back and tell us what you got. Either way, it's going to get hot enough to thin out and turn into a liquid once you shoot a few rounds... |
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What good is it if you have to cycle those first few rounds by hand? I think you're pulling stuff out your ass to try and prove a point you really can't prove, but ok. I've seen plenty of videos of people using frog lube in snow. Maybe your weapons just suck. |
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If it's new, it can't be good. Didn't you get the memo? Change is scary. If you follow the instructions you won't have any problems. If you think you know better, and follow your own rules, then you get problems. It's not hard. I wish I could find the link to a rust test someone did a while back. He tested froglube, motor oil, Slip, REM Oil, and a few others. He applied them all to a bare metal panel and left them in the snow and rain, etc for like a month. They all rusted except...wait for it...the one coated with Froglube. As for lubricity - it works. Great. I've not had an issue with thousands of rounds through multiple guns using it, and I know people who use it up north in temps in the single digits and teens and they've not had issues with it either. If you want to keep using your lube of choice, that's great, but you don't have to put down a product that works just because you apparently have some personal vendetta against it. Gotta love how a simple google search for frog lube reviews and tests turns up nothing but people saying how amazing it works. But not for arfcom elitists I guess. lol |
[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Froglube Question (Page 1 of 2)
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