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Posted: 1/11/2003 8:25:47 PM EDT
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Any comments on Bushmaster's front flip up sights? They have the standard model or the 3 rail gas block model. How hard are they to install? Thanks. |
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I have both bushmasters flip up front sight and their 3 rail gas block. The hardest part of the install was getting the pins out of the stock a2 front sight. One of the major cool things of the bushmaster flip front sight is that it locks down and locks up. Any questions feel free to ask. Oz |
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Oz, Since you have both which do you prefer? Did you need the drift punches Bushmaster sells to do this? I've been thinking about doing this for a year just for the flexibility it gives you. I did get instructions from Bushmaster on installing the 3 rail (see below). Does this seem to match up with your experience. I shouldn't mess with it. Got a spotting scope for xmas and spent the afternoon at the range tweeking my current sights. All I know is that my rifle can certainly shoot better than I can. [:)] Thanks to all for the input. |
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Sorry, forgot the manufacturer's directions: The 3 rail gas block and flip up sight set is installed as follows; The three rail gas block can only be installed on barrels that do not have a permanently attached flash hider or muzzle brake. To install the gas block the front sight base must be removed first. Remove the upper receiver from the lower. Remove the bolt carrier assembly, charging handle and handguards. Free float handguards are left in place. Remove the gas tube by drifting out the roll pin in the front sight base with a 1/16" drift punch. Pull the gas tube back into the receiver until it clears the front sight base. Then remove it by pulling it forward by the front sight base and out of the receiver. Install the gas tube into the three rail gas block with the gas hole in the end down towards where the gas port will be in the barrel. To install the pin it is best to make a slave pin holder. Drill a hole in the end of a piece of round steel stock with a number 48 (.076") drill bit just deep enough to hold the roll pin. Use the slave punch to start the pin and seat it with a 1/6" drift punch. It is easier if the gas block is supported on a piece of wood so that it is stable. Place the front sight base on a piece of wood to support it with the ejection side down to remove taper pins which come out left to right. Start the pins with a 1/4" drift punch. Then drift them out with a 1/8" drift punch. Tap the sight base off the barrel with a plastic mallet. Install the three rail gas block with gas tube onto the barrel. With receiver upside-down place a level on the bottom of the receiver and the bottom of the gas block. With the parts leveled tighten the set screws for the gas block with a 3/32" allen wrench. Install the flip up front sight onto the gas block with a 7/64" allen wrench. Reassemble the rifle. Sight in the rifle with the rear windage set in the middle. Adjust windage if necessary by loosening the set screws and moving the front sight. After the rifle is sighted in remove one set screw at a time and reinstall them with a drop of # 242 Loc-tite Thread Locker. Hints for installation; Too tight on barrel: Check to see if the grooves for the taper pins in the barrel are flared out. If this is the case they can be peened back with an 8 ounce ball peen hammer or carefully filed down flush with the barrel. Finish build up on the inside diameter can be carefully removed with a Scotch Brite pad. An ARMS # 5 Multibase http://www.bushmaster.com/shopping/scopes/arms5.asp or ARMS # 19 Throw Lever Mount http://www.bushmaster.com/shopping/scopes/arms19.asp can be used for quick on and off with zero retention. |
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