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Posted: 11/10/2008 1:40:11 PM EDT
| Are pretty much all low-pro gas blocks the same or are there some better than others? Also, what's involved in swapping the A2 sight for the block (Midwest Ind.)? Thanks! |
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I wouldn't say that they are all the same, although they all serve the same primary function.
Every manufacturer has different quality control standards, use different materials, hold their products to different standards, use different designs, have varying degrees of customer service, apply different types and qualities of finish, and have varying warranties. With that being said, most gas blocks that aren't no-name junk are going to work. If you want different options like adjustable gas ports or want your gas block to have top quality machine work and finish then certain manufacturers are going to better suite your needs. As for swapping blocks. All you need is a large hammer, a nice block of wood, a brass punch, or better yet a taper pin punch to REMOVE the old front site. Installing a new gas block may require more tools depending on the type. To remove 1.Lay your A2 Front site base(FSB) on the block of wood so the pin holes are supported, making sure you're knocking the pins out in the right direction(drive pins out the side of the gas block with the larger diameter holes by placing the pin-punch on the side with the small holes) If the diameter of the pin and holes are the same on both sides of the FSB then your upper probably has straight pins and you can knock them out on either side. 2. With your front site base supported by the block of wood, get someone to hold your pin punch while you make a STOUT strike on the pin with your large/heavy hammer. Ensure that you're coming straight down on the punch to ensure that you don't wack the crap out of your bud's hand 
3. If pins don't want to come out, first check to make sure you're hammering the right direction. If you are try apply some penetrating oil to the pin holes and allow it to soak in over night then try again. If that doesn't work try a bigger hammer, if it still doesn't work curse like a sailor, smash your buds finger with the hammer by accident, proceed to smash the A2 front sight base to pieces and throw the entire rifle at least 100 meters. 4. once the pins are successfully removed, liberally apply oil to the entire length of the barrel forth of the FSB to reduce scratchage of the finish. Remove your flash hider or muzzle break if not already done. 5. Carefully slide the FSB off of the barrel reducing drag against the barrel as much as possible. Installation of new gas block 1.Decide which gas block you have, a set screw, clamp style, or pinned style. Pinned If pinned style send it to ADCO to do the work for you because its a PITA. Set screw 1. If it's the set screw style you're probably going to want to gain access to a sturdy drill press and or buy a jig from rainier arms to make sure you get the dimple that the set screw seats at the precise spot on the under-side of the barrel. This will ensure the gas ports line up exactly the first time. There's no second chance when removing metal! 2. precicely allign your gas block by making witness marks on both the barrel and gas block that indicate the locations of the gas ports. These need to line up precisely or you may have some problems with short stroking and or a canted gas block. 3. Drill your dimples for the set screw to seat in. Make sure they're not too deep. they just need to be deep enougn for the screw to engage the barrel and keep the gas block from rotating or moving. 4. Install set screw gas block, apply red or blue loc-tite to the set screw (color depends on how permanent you want the installation to be) some people use loc-tite on the inside of the gas block too to prevent gas leakage. AGAIN with set screw gas blocks your dimples in the barrel must be exact or you'll possibly end up with a pinched gas port and or a canted gas block. Measure thrice drill once 
Clamp type gas blocks 1. make witness marks on your barrel ( I use a pencil) as to the location of the gas port so that they are visible when the new gas block is installed. 2. make witness marks on the gas block for the gas port location. 3. line up your marks, apply the blue or red loc-tie on the clamp screws and tighten the bitch down. 4. allow adequate time (24 hrs) for the loc-tite to set then take it out and shoot it. If you experience short stroking or failure's to lock the bolt back on the last round you probably measured wrong when aligning your port holes. Unscrew the screws to the clamp (may require a blow torch if you used the red loc-tie) and try again. |
This would be a nice tutorial. Thanks again!
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