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Posted: 2/27/2007 1:53:08 PM EDT
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I have 4 hand guns, and 4 rifles. My question is what would be "THE BEST" gun safe for me? I never owned a good safe only cheep Wally brands, so I'm clueless. Please give me something to look for (features) and pointers. Manufactures and Size. I have room in my house, and room in my closets. So just let me know. The price range is from $0.01 - $1600.00 ETA: 
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| I just bought a new American Security safe. It's very heavy for it's size (over 800 lbs). Much heavier and better fire rating than anything else I could find in the size I needed. Mine had to fit in a closet. It is finished very nice on both the inside and outside. |
| Buy the biggest safe that you can afford. You will find all kinds of stuff to keep in it. I also recommend the electronic lock option. The dial has the cool retro appeal, but I think the elec. is the way to go. The big brands seem pretty similar in features. Take a close look at the warranty terms. Good Luck |
Agree w/ everything except the electronic lock. I have seen two friends electronic locks go bad. Never seen a dial go bad, and if its during a SHTF situation you will be fucked. |
Check craigslist in your area. People would rather sell cheap than move it. |
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ive got a winchester safe i got from walmart. it ran around $600 and its perfect. heres a link to one like the winchester i bough, for some reason i cant find it. gun safe |
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Buy the biggest safe you can fit into the space you have...whether you can afford it or not. In other words, take the $1600, add $600. and buy bigger, heavier. I bought my first safe about 1996 or so... Thought for sure I would never fill it up. Guess what. It's past full and I'm about to buy another one. Larger. New one will be wider, taller. As big as I can fit down the basement stairs. The brands I like: National Security(I own one) Heritage, Liberty. What you have to do is find a dealer who stocks them and go look at them. I pretty set on buying a Heritage this time. I'm with the poster above who doesn't care for the electronic lock. I like the dial. Once you spin the dial locking the safe, you have a key to lock the dial so it won't trun. Safes are for fire protection and protection against your average punk theif. If somebody knows how to crack a safe, they are probably going to do it at a jewelry store or something more worth the risk than what is on your gun safe. Make sure you get one heavy enough that it can't be carried off.....or you bolt it to the floor, preferably concrete. Also, Liberty sells factory direct and they have pricing right on the web site. Heritage Liberty Champion American Security |
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I have a Champion also. Its really nice. Bought it January a year ago. I went with the electronic lock as I go in it pretty much every day sometimes more. I always keep two AR's out except when I go out of town or going to be away from the house for long periods of time just in case something happened to the lock. Its a kaba mas and supposed to be one of the best locks. JRandyH |
| I personally chose to go with the American Security. Most safes I looked at had the fire resistant boarding attached to the inside of the single steel liner. The AS contains a fibrous concrete type material poured between 2 steel liners. It would be difficult for a successful torch attack. It also weighed in at 900 Ibs. No safe is burglar proof, but it should deter the average home burglar. |
Nice buy. I love the double step door they added this year on them. Found out they are going to add a 3 step door on the Crown models next year, along with other upgrades on the crown.  Get Sackup gun socks for your rifles. Lets you maximize the space in the safe and protect your rifles also. Bolt down the rear bolt holes, if you don't plan on bolting down all 4 holes. |
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I wish browning/prosteel would put relockers in there safes. My boss has been looking at carring them for a while. But only if they would just put relockers in and tell us what the door steel is. So far no answer from the sales rep. *edit to add* the 1919 on the left
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I got a great AMSEC safe from KC Safe Company. They have outstanding prices. KC Safe They delivered it to my curb, but beware that you will need to have someone else on hand to move your safe to wherever you want it to end up. If you can't get a mover arranged on the same day you can have them leave the safe in the garage. |
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One thing I felt needed to add, The Goldenrod is not a dehumidifier. It is basically a small heating element meant to keep you from having condensation in your safe. You still need to have desicant of some type in the safe to pull the water out. If you live in a fairly dry climate this might not be a big issue, but if you do live in a humid clime, this is crucial. As for safes, you might contact a local locksmith, they come accross older gun and commercial safes more ofthen than most. My local locksmith is hooking me up with an older (1984) made safe for $800. It is 48w x 32dx60h and weighs in at 2600 lbs. I will have to fabricate my gun racks inside as it was shelved fo document storage originally ,but it is 3 hour rated fire and 60 minute rated opening. |
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I bought a big safe...bigger than my fridge by a long shot (36wx30dx72h). Thats all well and good, but you have to ask yourself how often you will be moving in the next few years? I didnt get fire lining as I didnt think it was that important, and still dont (thats me) but this safe would be impossible to move if it was lined... YMMV. I will be buying a second smaller safe soon. Probably fire lined. But in retrospect, I would have been much happier with two medium sized safes. B |
| I have three Liberty safes and am pleased with them. I put my own lights in them as it was cheaper and bolted them all together with a Porta-Mag drill. I then bolted them to the basement floor. If a pro comes after my weapons......He will take them, But as for most amateur's they should be secure. |
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