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Posted: 4/11/2008 8:24:58 AM EDT
OK, i'm sure some one has to know of something to lighten the stock trigger pull on an AR? Is there a lighter spring that can be bought and replace the 100 lb. stock one  Any polishing tricks? Anything? Please help!! PS, don't really want to drop a lot of money on an aftermarket trigger job. not looking for match quality, just to lighten up the stock trigger. Thanks for any help or info, it will greatly be appreciated. |
| I'm kinda new to the AR scene, but I know that there are tons of drop in trigger kits out there. That's what I would do. I don't think you'll have to spend a ton either. I don't know what trigger groups are good values, so hopefully someone else can step in on that. |
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There's a spring set you can drop in. I *think* this is it. www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=280609 |
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If you feel like you can- www.geocities.com/molonlaberkba/triggerjob.html If not - ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=118&t=346341&page=3 I sent one to Bill for a 4# job & was extreamly happy with it  Best $32 i've spent on my AR----- |
| I recently got a chip mccormick supermatch trigger group. They say its 'drop-in' but you will have to remove the pistol grip, detent, spring, and safety selector to get it in. It wasn't cheap but i'm here to tell you that for a single stage trigger it is very nice, and I am thoroughly satisfied with it. The hammer/trigger pins also have c-clips to keep them in place. Definitely worth the extra money. I still like my rra 2-stage match trigger in my other lower better, but what I'm saying is that they are both huge leaps ahead of the oem trigger group. I recommend spending the extra money. Those geisselle ones are real expensive but seem to be top-tier. Anyway the factory trigger would break at what felt like somewhere between 4 and 6 pounds, the chip mccormick breaks around 3.5lbs and my rra 2nd stage breaks just at 3lbs. Very nice. |
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If you want to do something about the trigger pull, definitely DO NOT start mucking around with light springs. You'll be asking for reliability problems. When talking about trigger pulls, many refer to the weight of the trigger pull and some think that the weight of the trigger pull is the end all, be all of judging a trigger. I've felt 4lb triggers that were creepy and rough, and I've also felt 6lb triggers that were smooth as glass with no creep. I'd much rather the heavier trigger with the smooth action than the 4lb trigger with the creepy and rough pull. Although the weight of the pull (as it is affected by the strength of the springs) does have to something to do with the trigger feel, what is more important is the geometry of the hammer/sear engagement surfaces and the preparation of those surfaces. The geometry AND surface preparation are what the pros work on. If a gunsmith tells you to go to lighter springs, I think that you should find another gunsmith. Although pulling your existing parts and sending them to a gunsmith to have them worked on will work, the life of the trigger group may be less than what you hoped for. Unless I'm mistaken, many of the better replacement trigger groups are cut, prepared and then hardened. The post preparation hardening is what ensures a long life of the parts. If you take your existing parts, that have already been hardened and then start cutting on them, what you end up with will wear more quickly than it would have if you just left it alone. Of course, materials will differ from one set of parts to another, so YMMV. I just know that when I was shooting USPSA pistol matches, pre-prepared and hardened hammer/sear sets lasted noticeably longer than stock parts that were recut. |
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