AR Sponsor
Posted: 10/5/2010 12:07:03 AM EDT
| My Ar has barely had over a thousand rounds through it and I've already destroyed two buffer tubes. It always happens the same way, the stock tube starts off nice and tight then the receiver plate starts wearing into the buffer tube threads, cleaving off part of the thread leaving a nice flush piece of exposed aluminium. What am I doing wrong? |
|
Does your castle nut come loose when this happens?
With the receiver extension screwed into the lower, the only way for back and forth motion to happen between it and the end plate, is if the nut is loose. Unless you have damaged the lower threads or they are somehow out of spec allowing the extension to move. Pics would help. |
|
Quoted:
Does your castle nut come loose when this happens? With the receiver extension screwed into the lower, the only way for back and forth motion to happen between it and the end plate, is if the nut is loose. Unless you have damaged the lower threads or they are somehow out of spec allowing the extension to move. Pics would help. +1 on what he said. and desert_AIP... awesome avatar and quote. R.A.H. was the man. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Are you staking the castle nut? What exactly is staking? 
It's basically done by placing a sharp tool such as a punch or modified slotted screwdriver on the end plate, adjacent to one of the notches in the castle nut, then striking the end of the tool handle with a hammer, to make a dent or notch in the end plate. When done properly, this makes the end plate bulge slightly into the castle nut notch, and helps to prevent the castle nut from coming loose. I'd read up on how to do it, first, though. Maybe others can tell how to do it better than I can. |
|
Not sure if it will help you any with the stake job but here is a link from the "New and Improved Guide to Building a Lower" posted by CONKLE73. Scroll down to the end of his first post where he talks about staking.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=2&f=282&t=186316 |
|
Quoted:
Not sure if it will help you any with the stake job but here is a link from the "New and Improved Guide to Building a Lower" posted by CONKLE73. Scroll down to the end of his first post where he talks about staking. http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=2&f=282&t=186316 That's a nice write-up ! He used a center punch for the staking. |
|
You're lock nut isn't on tight enough, thus allowing the tube to spin (however slightly).
Get this: http://dpmsinc.com/store/products/?prod=1428 and this: http://dpmsinc.com/store/products/?prod=4937 And install it correctly. You can also hit the shiny parts with some Alumi-black or a sharpie. Even if it's stripped out a little bit, your tube is still good and there's no need to replace it. That groove in the threads helps with indexing, but it's not what actually keeps it straight. Only after this is done should you consider staking it. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Seems like your not tightening the castle nut good enough. Staking is not necessary, just get a cheap RRA wrench and put a little muscle behind it.  It's not necessary when it's installed correctly to begin with. It's nice to have, but only an added measure. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Seems like your not tightening the castle nut good enough. Staking is not necessary, just get a cheap RRA wrench and put a little muscle behind it. It's not necessary when it's installed correctly to begin with. It's nice to have, but only an added measure. That's not been my experience. Even if I torque the @$#! out of my castle nut, after ~500 rounds it's loose again. Even faster if you're doing movement drills, transitioning to/from prone, running a carbine class, etc. Anything that causes the stock to rotate relative to the receiver is going to loosen the castle nut. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Seems like your not tightening the castle nut good enough. Staking is not necessary, just get a cheap RRA wrench and put a little muscle behind it. It's not necessary when it's installed correctly to begin with. It's nice to have, but only an added measure. 
PLEASE SHARE THE LOCATION YOUR KNOWLEDGE COMES FROM AND POST IT! Inquiring minds would like to know. OP You have already F'ed UP 2 buffer tubes. Do not listen to the above information and properly stake the CASTLE NUT. M4QUADRAIL 
OH WAIT! You are right! CLOSET/SAFE QUEENS do not need to have CASTLE NUTS OR CARRIER KEYS staked! If you are ever planning on possibly placing your life in the hands of this RIFLE/CARBINE STAKE IT! |
|
I should have emphasized that it's still a great idea, but not worthy of the snobbish disdain when someone doesn't have it, as some people have around here.
Furthermore, it doesn't do much good if it's not tight enough to begin with. Tight > Staked Tight & Staked = Great |
|
Quoted:
I should have emphasized that it's still a great idea, but not worthy of the snobbish disdain when someone doesn't have it, as some people have around here. Furthermore, it doesn't do much good if it's not tight enough to begin with. Tight > Staked Tight & Staked = Great Snobbish is your reference to CAPS and cruise control above. I have manufactured and built AR15 rifles and carbines for 18 years now and was wondering where your knowledge came from? I was manufacturing before the CASTLE NUT (caps) was in existence. The current castle nut is notched for displaced metal from the end plate to lodge so it does not loosen, which before was a common problem with earlier adjustable stocked models such as the CAR15. Now that I have explained where my knowledge base comes from maybe you will be able to figure out what the problem is without staking a castle nut. I am here to help everyone and some people should not be so SNOBBY! Yes I know that damn caps lock again! By the way thats what has caused several people with extensive knowledge in this area of expertise to leave this forum. Well I agree with the tighten before staking statement so i guess thats a start! M4QUADRAIL
Oh by the way I will send one of my STAKING PUNCHES to anyone who needs it as long as they send it back, so not having one now is no longer an issue. |
AR Sponsor