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Posted: 8/21/2009 7:43:28 PM EDT
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Okay here's another newbie question for you guys. I have the following scope and my question is below:
NCStar STR2732G (2-7x32 Rangefinder) Open Target Turrets Bullet drop compensator calibrated for the .223 cartridge with a 55 grain bullet Reticles illuminate in Red or Green with multiple brightness setting Integrated Quick Release weaver style/ picatinny mounting system MAGNIFICATION:2X-7X TUBE DIA. N/A OBJECTIVE DIA. (MM) 32.00 FOV (FEET AT 100 YARDS) 39.1-13.0 EYE RELIEF (in) 2.9 EXIT PUPIL(MM) 14.4-4.8 RETICLE: RANGEFINDER N.W(OZ.) 14.9 LENGTH (in) 7.35 CLICK VALUE : 1/2 M.O.A. EXTERIOR FINISH: MATTE BLACK LENS COATING: GREEN MOUNT:INTEGRATED (WEAVER STYLE QUICK RELEASE) Rangefinder I went to the range today and my groupings were all in the far upper right quadrant of the target, with only 1 shot dead center. I used a bench and bipods with this scope and was expecting better results. I know it's not a high dollar scope, and this is the first time I shot my new AR so I was wondering if it's me, or what type of adjustments should be made based on my groupings? I also have no idea how to use the dials on the scope for adjustments. Any help or direction towards help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance for the help. The good news is I loved shooting the AR for the first time. |
| on your turrets it will have an arrow pointing with the direction it will move. rule of thumb is chase your groupings. if your grouping 4" up and 5" right. adjust your cross hairs 4" up and 5" right. when you look at your group, go off of the most center bullet. and on your turrets it will usually say 1 click = x" at 100 yards or 1 click = x MOA |
| Did you get directions or an owners manual with this scope? If so go back and read the zero procedure. If you did not get the manual you can download it here. |
A guy I went shooting with today had the exact same problem wit both his AR-15 and AR-10. One of his scopes was of that make as well. However, I can see your not in Texas,  . I figure it's probably bad/cheap scope mounts. Could not be the same height, or a number of different problems.
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Thanks to everyone for the replies! I went to the company website but had no luck with any manuals helping me with the problem.
I think based on what i am reading that I need to have the scope at 7X zoom, set the bullet drop compensator at the lowest setting of "1" (100 yards), and play with the windage turret on the side of the scope until I can bring the groupings in to center? I also am factoring in my lack of talent with the weapon as well. 
I'll keep after it and appreciate you guy's feedback! Thanks again! |
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Quoted:
on your turrets it will have an arrow pointing with the direction it will move. rule of thumb is chase your groupings. if your grouping 4" up and 5" right. adjust your cross hairs 4" up and 5" right. when you look at your group, go off of the most center bullet. and on your turrets it will usually say 1 click = x" at 100 yards or 1 click = x MOA This is the key to your zeroing the scope. Sounds like your bullseye was a flyer. The rest of your shots were in the upper right quadrant of the target which would imply that is where your rifle is most consistently shooting when aiming at the center of the target. You can zero two ways from here since you know that you're on paper. 1) This is presuming you have the rifle bench rested and in a non-moving mount, so to speak. From this position the rifle is aimed at the center of the target. At this point your rifle is shooting in the upper right quadrant as a consistent group. So do not touch the mount your rifle rests on. Only move the reticle of your scope so that is is at the center of your grouping. Now, move the rifle on the bench so that it is aimed at the center of the target, don't touch the sope settings at this point. Should be on the money now. If you ever watch "Top Sniper" on the military channel you can pick up some tricks of the trade. 2) The other way is to keep aiming at the center of the target and make small adjustments to the scope turrets to eventually drag your shot groupings to your Point of Aim, which is the center of the target. This can take a little longer but is equally effective. Let the flaming begin. 
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The zoom setting has no effect on your bullet point of impact, other than increasing the apparent size of the image (and, thus, perhaps making it easier to get a decent group). Likewise, the bullet drop compensator is not relevant here.
As mentioned above, all scopes must be sighted in when first put on a weapon. Rifle/scope combos don't come from the factory all dialed in. The first thing you've got to be able to do is shoot a decent enough group so it's apparent where your bullets are landing. The second thing you've got to do is "get on paper", to actually have the bullets landing somewhere on your target. Sounds like you're already good to go with that. (If you weren't, you'd want to do an initial sight-in at a much shorter range). Once you're on paper and you're shooting decent enough groups, it's just a matter of turning your windage and elevation knobs in the appropriate direction (they'll be marked) until your bullets are hitting where you aim. If you're bullets are mostly in the upper right quadrant, you'll want to come left, and down (measuring from the approximate center of where your bullet holes are clustered). Most scopes take 4 clicks to move an inch at 100 yards. So if that's your distance, count how many inches you need to come left, and multiple by 4. Move your windage knob that many clicks. Then do the same thing for your elevation. If your range is 50 yards, you'd need to double the number of clicks. If it's 25 yards, you'd need to quadruple them. Then, shoot another 5 or 10 shot group on a fresh target, and adjust again if needed. And, yeah, you really should read the manual that should have come with your scope. |
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