AR Sponsor
Posted: 9/24/2010 9:45:43 AM EDT
|
Decided to become a real live ARF Man and tear apart my AR(Rock River).
This is my first time so be gentle. 
Want to change the barrel out to a different upper. Purchased the armorer wrench, receiver block, and handguard tool. Got the gas tube out ok. I'll be damned if I can get the barrel nut to break loose. The wrench keeps slipping off when I put any leverage on it. Any ideas? |
|
Make sure the upper is in an upper block/ action block. This may include a bolt insert to support the inside of the upper.
Place it into a good bench vise. Securely mounted to a heavy bench is better. Firmly push against the wrench (towards the upper) to ensure it engages the teeth on the barrel nut. It might push back if you have an OEM spring-loaded slip ring. ETA: If it takes both hands to unscrew the barrel, have a buddy hold the wrench against the barrel nut. Make sure you're trying to unscrew the barrel nut, leftie-loosey, righty-tighty (as you're looking at the upper from the front). Use torque, but do so gradually, not banging on a breaker bar. We're talking about a steel barrel nut on a threaded piece of aluminum, sounds like your upper might have experienced some galling. If you want to prevent it in the future, us some sort of lubricant on where the parts make contact. |
|
Hitting the nut with a propane torch (not MAPP) can often give you a good leg up. Get it good and warm and I bet the torque necessary to break it loose drops quite a bit.
Like Tweeter said, make sure you are putting enough pressure to overcome the weld spring if you have a stock barrel. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
I think RRA uses red loctite, good luck, you'll need heat and a some serious muscle arent you supposed to grease the threads and not loctite them? seems a little stupid of RRA I've heard that before but I have taken apart two RRA (tactical 16" and varmint 20") and had no problems and saw no evidence of loc-tite on them. |
|
Quoted: I've heard that before but I have taken apart two RRA (tactical 16" and varmint 20") and had no problems and saw no evidence of loc-tite on them. Perhaps Rock River uses multiple or has changed procedures when building their rifles. Quoted: I think RRA uses red loctite, good luck, you'll need heat and a some serious muscle I worked on a Rock River carbine about a week ago, I believe the above statement to be correct. This rifle was a factory build about 2 years old. They used Loctite on the barrel and the receiver extension (no staking on the nut). I know some people don't like the DPMS type Armorers Wrench. I find this design to be easier using the barrel nut shaped end of the wrench (more surface area engagement) to be less likely to slip off than the standard multi-pin type wrenches. I have 3 of the pin type wrenches (both 3 and 5 pin) and have used them extensively. YMMV Just as a side note I've found the Hammer Head Wrench to be the answer for the receiver extension nut where Loctite or similar product has been used. The full circle head on this wrench is a real winner for tight nuts. As has been mentioned, heat is a real plus on both of these components, making sure to heat the nut as opposed to surrounding parts. |
|
They do NOT use locktite on RRA's, if you are using the dpms style multi tool, use the side that doesn't look like the pic above. if the delta ring is getting in the way and msking your wrench slip off, pull the sping off behind the ring itself. If your not putting it in a vise and trying to just rely on pure leverage, you will be having this headache for days.
Good Luck and Happy Armoring 
|
AR Sponsor