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Posted: 2/2/2003 11:00:41 AM EDT
| I am thinking of getting a stripped lower and a lower parts kit to save some money on my project. How hard is it to put one of these together, and what company is a good source for mil-spec parts? Thanks |
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As far as which parts to buy, I recommend buying a Bushmaster lower kit. First, the parts are of the finest quality. Secondly, the price is reasonable. Thirdly and most important, any and all business that Bushmaster gets right now will fly in the face of the traiterous lawyers of HCI. Support them. That said, as to the difficulty of doing the work, I would ask you: Do you have any mechanical aptitude? It isn't hard to assemble a lower, but if you are not at least somewhat able to comprehend mechanical things, you could damage the lower receiver. Some people just don't have the ability to do simple mechanical things (and that's not a slam against anyone). Most people could handle this task though. You will need a few correctly sized drift punches, a small hammer, and a few other common tools. Here is a detailed description of the process: [url]http://www.ar15.com/content/docs/assembly/lower/[/url] |
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I built a J&T kit on an Eagle Arms lower about 4 weeks ago. It was the first one I've done(more to follow[:D]. I was suprised how well it went. About 2 hours taking my time. Used info I found here including the lower build instructions and the razor blade trick for the pivot detent install. As was said above , a little mechanical ability and it should be a snap. S-I |
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Quoted: Thanks guys. I have a decent amount of experience building models so from the sound of it I should be ok as far as mechanical abilities go. Will a standard set of drift puncheswork, possibly those from my father's garage? Thanks for the tips and advice. The important thing about the punches is the diameter. I use 1/16", 3/32", 1/8", and 5/32" Starret punches. You want the ends of the punches to look like they did when new - sharp edges and flat and smooth across the face. I also built a lot of models when I was young, and if you can do a good job building a model, you can build an AR lower no problem. |
| Roll pin punches work great if you've got some. They have a little nipple on the end to keep you from crushing or flattening the end of the roll pin, and help hold it in place as well. Before you start the lower, find a big cardboard box and cut one side. Put a sheet over it and fold it around the area you're working in on the work bench. Any springs or pins that go flying will usually stick to the sheet, or drop back on the bench. Could save you a lot of time from chasing small parts. |
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Quoted: It was the first one I've done(more to follow[:D]. I was suprised how well it went. About 2 hours taking my time. Used info I found here including the lower build instructions and the razor blade trick for the pivot detent install. As was said above , a little mechanical ability and it should be a snap. S-I Ditto what he said. I did my first one a couple years ago. Bought a DPMS lower at a gunshow, got all the lower parts from Bushmaster, and added the 20" A2 target upper from Bushmaster. I didn't do the razorblade trick though. I saw in Brownell's cat what they sold for a PDI and found a bent piece of rod in the shop that worked perfectly. Good luck on your build. NMSight |
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Having the proper tools will help you alot. Roll pin starter punches, roll pin punches, a small mallet, and a wrench for the buffer tube. Once you have done a few they will be much easier. My first one took about 40 min to assemble. I did one last week in 20 min, and wasn't even rushing that one...No scratches. They are easy and fun to assemble. KyARGuy |
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Quoted: what's this razor blade trick that stepped-init is talking about?? am i missing something? I can't seem to find the thread on the razor blade trick. Must be more than 30 days old. Anyways, what I did was insert the detent spring, then using small needle-nose pliers place the detent on the top of the spring and insert just far enough into the detent hole to get it started. Then while holding the detent in place with the needle-nose place the flat side of a single edge razor blade on top of the detent and finish pushing it into the hole removeing the needle-nose pliers in the process. Then while holding the detent in place with the razor blade you can easily insert the pivot pin. When the pivot pin is in place remove the razor blade and you are done. Oh, and watch out for the sharp edge of the razor blade - it can cut a misplaced fingertip - I know!. If I left anything out or said something wrong I hope someone will correct me, but I think that was the jist of the original post. Good luck, S_I |
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Quoted: what's this razor blade trick that stepped-init is talking about?? am i missing something? the razor blade "trick" is for installing the front detent/spring/pin. For this step,I like to sit on the end of a white bedsheet and pull the rest over my head, sounds silly but it keeps the detent from flying around. First drop in the detent spring, then hold the detent with some needle nose pliers( smaller is better)and compress the spring as far as you can. Then, using a razor blade, fully compress the detent and spring, and insert the pivot pin. The pin can be inserted and then rotated until the detent drops into the slot in the pin. Use safety glasses[B)]and masking tape on the lower, in places, to avoid scratches. |
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I'm an idiot, and I did this my first time a couple days ago. Going slow, it took about 2 hrs, plus another hour searching for that last detent. [:)] Total tools involved, a piece of scrap wood, a claw hammer, a 5/32" punch, a flat screwdriver, and an allen wrench (for the grip screw). But definitely, if you have the right tools, use them instead. The bolt catch is a bitch, but if you hammer the pin in slightly (and very slightly, or the bolt catch won't go in) past the first "ear", you'll be able to put the bolt catch in place and have it held there by the pin. Then drive away. The pivot pin is also a pain, but what I did was push the buffer retainer through from the other side (open end to the right) and had it hold the detent in place. Then I held the takedown pin on the left side of it, and the pivot pin on the right side of it, and slid the pivot pin into place. The first time I didn't hold the left side and the detent made haste for my forehead, note to self: wear eye protection. A couple more things of note, when installing my hammer, I had to compress the spring considerably. And after you install the selector, it'll just flop around until you get the detent in... same for the takedown pin. One last thing, before you start, print out the instructions [url=http://www.ar15.com/content/docs/assembly/lower/]here[/url], and when you take your parts kit out, lay all the parts out and make sure they're all there. FWIW, my disconnector, hammer, and trigger springs were already installed. A lot of this will make much more sense when you get into putting it together. |
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There are some good tips here. Notack, that's my routine too, except I use two sheets--spread one out on the floor, sit on it with my parts, and then throw one over me and the parts. Definitely wear safety glasses when installing the front pivot pin. And a couple of layers of masking tape around anywere on the left side close to where you're installing roll pins will prevent scratching the lower. It's not hard. Just pay attention to the instructions, don't get in a hurry, and don't force anything. I really like J&T's complete rifle kits (no lower of course) better than anyone's. They have the best lower parts kit I've ever used. Naturally there are others but they've become my favorite if I want a quality kit, and it isn't outrageously priced either. As someone else said, their shipping cost is too high, but their quality makes up for it so I go along with it. |
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Just completed my first lower build. It took about 35-45 min. Made my own tool to install the front pivot pin. Made it out of a peice of .250 dia crs dowel rod. Had to sand it down to fit correctly and drilled a .1285 dia hole then used a 5/32 punch to keep it compressed while installing the front pivot pin. Worked like a champ. Just take your time and follow the instructions in the lower assembly guide on the front page of this site and it will be a piece of cake. Batchman |
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Hey man I did my first lower, for my first gun ever, this weekend. I have never shot a rifle, nor am i that mechanically inclined... ITS A PIECE OF CAKE everyone makes it sound harder then it looks, and the lower guide makes it seem tricky (though INVALUABLE). The dentents are easy, just use the compliment parts (ie, push the pivot dentent WITH THE PIVOT PIN, and you'll get it right within the frist 3 tries). Honestly, you could do the whole lower with just a pair of pliers (ie, robo-grip from craftsman) and a screwdriver for the pistol grip. ~ Its a very rewarding experience, easy, and fun! Have fun! Santi |
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Quoted: There are some good tips here. Notack, that's my routine too, except I use two sheets--spread one out on the floor, sit on it with my parts, and then throw one over me and the parts. Definitely wear safety glasses when installing the front pivot pin. And a couple of layers of masking tape around anywere on the left side close to where you're installing roll pins will prevent scratching the lower. It's not hard. Just pay attention to the instructions, don't get in a hurry, and don't force anything. I really like J&T's complete rifle kits (no lower of course) better than anyone's. They have the best lower parts kit I've ever used. Naturally there are others but they've become my favorite if I want a quality kit, and it isn't outrageously priced either. As someone else said, their shipping cost is too high, but their quality makes up for it so I go along with it. Taking imcoltsguy's advice and the cost of masking tape = $0.02 Not scratching your lower like I did...Priceless! Live and learn...only problem is I'm in CA, so there really won't be a next time. Good Luck! |
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Here is a little trick on the roll pins. Chuck then up in a drill(very lightly) and spin file one end to tapper it and allow it to glide into the hole. Your not going for a sharp point, only enought to remove the end burs at the slit. Then before you start to drive the roll pin, apply a little grease to the hole/pin to prevent the pin from binding. When you are driving the trigger guard roll pin, directly back up on the other ear (not the center of the receiver). This will prevent the ears from snapping the ears. |
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