AR Sponsor
Posted: 1/7/2008 7:26:14 AM EDT
... go from this: to this:  I would like for the front sight to be out of the way, until I want or need it. Any links to similar mods like this? |
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That doesn't seem very far to go at all. How handy are you? The FSB can be removed and replaced with a flip up FSB. A rail could be done at the same time pretty simply. Search the armory, there are instructions in there somewhere. If you're not handy, you cab ship the upper to one of the site sponsors and pay a nominal fee. Look here. Scroll a third of the way down. |
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I found these kits from YHM. My next question is are they any good? YHM Four Rail Free Float Kits These kits allow you to mount optics, grips, flashlights, etc to the forearm's picatinny rails. The forearm's top rail is on the same plane as the flat top upper receiver. Available in lightweight and solid kits. Each kit includes: Lightweight or Solid Forearm, End Cap (YHM-9484-A), Front Flip Sight Tower (YHM-9394). Carbine Solid 4 Rail Forearm Kit (YHM-9479-KIT) $210.00 Quantity Carbine Lightweight 4 Rail Forearm Kit (YHM-9631-KIT) $210.00 Mid-Length solid 4 rail forearm kit (YHM-9306-KIT) $217.00 Quantity Mid-Length Lightweight 4 rail forearm kit (YHM-9634-KIT) $217.00 Quantity Rifle Length solid 4 rail forearm kit (YHM-9480-KIT) $246.00 Quantity Rifle Length Lightweight 4 rail forearm kit (YHM-9636-KIT) $246.00 Quantity So for $200+ it looks like I can get everything to make the change. Or am I missing something? |
I have never owned YHM but heard they are good rails. |
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Easy......IF YOU HAVE THE RIGHT TOOLS If you don't have the tools.....you'll most likely "fugg it up". It doesn't matter if it's construction work, auto mechanic work, or gun plumbing......It's 50% know how and 50% HAVING THE RIGHT TOOLS! I've learned that the hard way many times over from laying floors, to working on cars, to working on guns. Buy the right tools. EDIT TO ADD: You will need a USGI or similar barrel wrench with cutouts for FH, a YHM specific barrel wrench, Proper hammer (8oz ballpeen is good) with the proper pin punches, a GOOD sturdy vise, vise blocks for AR (although with a flatop you can get away with plywood and putting the upper sideway), good allen wrenchs (for the pistol grip). And lastly a GOOD STURDY table or workbench to work on. By the way, you'll also need the proper lube and grease when you reassemble. It won't hurt to get the AGI AR15 armorer video if you don't know your way around an AR. |
Were you referring to me or the OP? |
If your flash hider comes off, it is MUCH easier than this. Step 1: remove flash hider Step 2: Remove Handguards Step 3: Tap out FSB taper pins Step 4: Tap out gas tube roll pin, Remove FSB Step 5: Install new flip up FSB Step 6: Purchase a Troy Rail or other 2 piece and install where handguards used to be Step 7: Put flash hider back on No special tools except maybe 2 punches :D |
I didn't photoshop it. It is the original pic from the YHM site. The link is above if you want to check it out. |
Just a question for those reading. I would replace the gas tube while I'm in there. Would you? Sorry to Hijack. |
Why? I really don't know much about the function/ maintenance of them so if something should be done, please inform me. The rifle is still pretty much new- maybe 250 rds. thru it. I am thinking about having Spike's Tactical do it. They are pretty close to me and might save me a headache. |
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This is exactly what you'd need: 1. set of punches 20 bucks 2. buy non free floating railed handguards (~100 bucks) 3. new grip 20 bucks 4. buy flip up sight 80 bucks sell carry handle depend on brand 50 bucks total equals 220-50=170 not so hard to do really but you've gotta have the tools |
Why a NON free floating. I was looking at the YHM forearm which is free floating. Are they bad? I really don't know too much about all of this and would hate to waste my money. I already have a Hogue grip and don't want to sell my carry handle. |
They are great for the price. I had a customizable FF tube on a carbine and it was very solid. The newer ones are better, since they have a anti rotation screw. My varmint upper uses the rifle length FF tube. 
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The free float tubes aren't bad at all, but the non free floats are easier to install without extra tools and time. They are a quick and easy swap Only "problem" is that you sacrifice a minute amount of accuracy I pretty much only said it because it is quicker and w/ less time and tools and easier. |
How would it sacrafice accuracy if the front sight is part of the gas block and my EOTech and BUIS is attached to the flat top? *** Please don't take any of my questions as some sort of challenge. I am learning as I go here and haven't been going too long.*** Thanks. Also, what tools are you referring to? |
With the non FF setup, you may sacrifice some accuracy because all barrels are subject to flexing. Shoot with a sling and pull hard enough, you will flex that barrel. Shoot on a rest and push down hard on the rifle as you shoot, you will flex that barrel. All this will change your point of impact. A FF setup prevents this flexing, as the handguard/tube is attached to the receiver, and the barrel is isolated from the handguard. For a tactical type setup, the amount of shift is fairly negligible, so a FF handguard is not really needed. For scoped or national match type rifles, FF tubes are almost a requirement. For tools you will need, at a minimum: punches, hammer, hex wrenches, barrel nut wrench, upper receiver block, and some moly lube. And a Vise. I used a DPMS tool for my builds:  
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OKAY. I am confused. If I am following all of you ... one person is saying FF will hurt accuracy and another is saying it will help or at least not hurt it. |
No no, you actually misread what he was saying. Both are saying that a Free Floating rail system will help out accuracy, although very minutely. It's just that a Free Floating rail system is a bit more expensive, and the installation may be a bit more intensive as it may require the removal of the D ring/Barrel ring/Handguard holder thing (too tired to remember the real nomenclature) |
correctamundo Free floated tube will help accuracy, but will take more time,more tools, more mulah to install |
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Quoted: This one i sent to YHM to do the work and install the kit. Light weight FF tube,flip site,and the front collar thingie.   That is what I am looking for. The install was free right? How long was the turn around? Would you do anything differently? Is this what you mean by "the front collar thingie"? 
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No no, you actually misread what he was saying. Both are saying that a Free Floating rail system will help out accuracy, although very minutely. It's just that a Free Floating rail system is a bit more expensive, and the installation may be a bit more intensive as it may require the removal of the D ring/Barrel ring/Handguard holder thing (too tired to remember the real nomenclature) Ok... ok. I though I was getting MY wires crossed. I have a heavy bbl Bushmaster. So there shouldn't be anything to worry about in regard to warping.... right? Thanks to all of you guys for your help and insight.  |
Doesn't matter how heavy your barrel is... |
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Okay, I ordered the YHM two piece forearm and the YHM gas block with the integrated flip up sight. I also ordered the forearm end cap. I went by Sears and bought a decent set of punches. I have a work bench and vise in the garage, so I am going to give it a go. If I screw it up, I will take it to Spike's Tactical and have them fix it. One more question- LOCTITE. Which to use? I have a Harley so I always have some on hand.  Blue or Red? or none?
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I'm no AR assy expert, but I have made and worked on plenty of other mechanical stuff, and I don't use red loctite for anything if I can help it...unless I really, really don't want to take it apart again or don't think I will have to get it back apart again. Make sure the threads are clean, though, and there may be parts on an forearm that need red for whatever reason, but see what the rest of the experts on here say first. |
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Do not use Locktite. You don't need it for what you're wanting to do. Use locktite on accessories like the nut to a rear site clamp/flashlight clamp, etc. NOT on the barrel nut or YHM jam nut. This isn't the best of pictures but it's the only one I have at the moment.  YHM freefloat rails YHM gas block with flipup sight and bayo lug I use a round carbine handguard retainer cap rather than the YHM endcap thingy. The YHM rails are known for being on the wide side of specs. So if you want to add a Tango Down foregrip, which is known to be on the tight side, you will have to hammer it on. Literally. Although I did sand/file the grip a bit to make it easier to install. |
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The flip up is fine, just remember that its not going to be as rugged as a normal pinned front sight base. That sight is made well, but because half of the material on one side that supports the sight is milled out you can bend it with a good wack. Those 4 little screws can come loose, tapered pins don't. Although you will never need it I really don't think that the YHM flip up was designed to handle a bayonet since those two little screws that hold the lug on will probably snap off fairly easily in actual use. |
No, you didn't read it wrong. I bought the two piece and the end cap. Do they not go together? I asked the guy at Bravo Comp., Paul, and he said it would work. I really do not know and wanted to order everything together and I am just going by what I am learning in this thread. |
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