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Posted: 12/1/2004 5:11:19 PM EDT
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How do I positively identify an RRA flat top upper and barrel assembly? Thanks! |
| That's a very hard thing to do. RRA uses unmarked/unstamped barrels. RRA gets their raw forgings from a number of forges, so it may have a variety of forging marks or no forging mark at all on the receiver. Unless you go to the RRA factory and purchase an RRA upper from a guy wearing an RRA ID badge, you really don't know what you are getting from other people. Nearly all of the RRA approved dealers will sell you genuine RRA parts, but there really isn't any way to verify that by markings, etc. |
| That's kinda tough, RRA does'nt really use any markings of their own on their upper receivers or barrels. The uppers they use will sometimes have a forging mark on them but that still does'nt help to positively identify it as a RRA receiver because many AR manufacterers use forgings from the same companies. None or the RRA barrels I have bought have ever had any markings on them at all. |
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Several things to look for: 1)Dowell pins, not taper pins, for front sight housing. 2)Rivet, not roll pin for front swivel. 3)Shrouded firing pin on carrier, and bottom side of carrier is polished on factory guns/uppers. 4)If willing to take it apart, barrel is marked above chamber with twist,chamber, and material designators. Sluggo |
My RRA 16" upper has a non-chrome lined bore and a 1-in-9 twist. It's marked "N 9 A". The barrel has a very heavy profile under the handguards, and a regular heavy profile from the FSB forward. The flattop upper is absolutely featureless; not a mark (even or maybe especially on the rail). I had noticed the RRA "enhanced" bolt carrier, but hadn't really noticed the FSB pins or swivel rivet until sluggo mentioned them. |
Correct. Except if you buy just the barrel, you don't get any front sight parts, sling swivel, or rivet, or even a delta ring pack or a flash hider. So you have to put all of those things on, whereas Bushmaster barrel kits come with handguards, gas tube, everything. And the front sight is put in and the sling swivels are already riveted. It can be a pain in the as to rivet those RRAs, although it only takes about 5 minutes to do once you do a few. The ones I have noticed that have really tight weld springs are Bushmasters. |
The boss and I have had numerous talks about that. Actually, I find that taper pins are easier to get out. Once you break them loose, they actually shoot out. Straight pins you have to hit them all the way out, they fight you a little bit the whole way. Neither type of pin should ever walk out. If a taper pin did come loose, it would be more likely to come all of the way out. And take into consideration that you still have another pin in the FSB. It would have to take two one-in-a-million blows to disable the gun. Straight pins would have to have a steady push to get them out. Now as far as creating some stress on the barrel that could potential affect it as it heats up and make the zero wander, your guess is as good as mine. |
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