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Posted: 3/2/2026 9:07:28 PM EDT
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I fell in love with 9x23 last year with the purchase of a 2011 chambered in it, and have since built a 2nd one. I started thinking how cool it would be to have a carbine in this caliber. Well since I bought a 9x23 chamber reamer and headspace gauges for the 2011 I built (rechambered a 9x19 barrel), I figured, why not make a upper myself. Since most 9mm AR barrels are for blowback, they would not work, as I want/need a standard barrel extension. 9x23 is too much for blowback. I have a 9mm CMMG RDB, but those barrels are nitrided, so it would ruin a chamber reamer. I figured I was just on my own. A little looking online I found a 9mm barrel blank from KAK. I bought two, in case I mess one up or have to start over.   I chuck it up in the lathe, turn it down, thread it for a barrel extension, finish it at 16in, and thread the muzzle 1/2-28. I left the OD at .760, just over the diameter of a standard gas block. I found a center feed barrel extension, so I did not have to mod one. I then took a spare bolt I had and opened up the bolt face enough to fit the 9x23 rim (since it is bigger than 223). I will say, holy cow AR bolts are HARD. I almost did not think my lathe was going to cut it, but eventually it did. Just went slow, very light passes, and lube. I cut the chamber and headspaced it. I installed it onto a upper, just bare as a proof of concept.   Now what about magazines? Well I have been using mean arms endo mags for my 9mm CMMG RDB 9mm upper. If you take them apart, there is a spacer on the back that can be taken out. With it out of the mag body, it makes the follower tilt up in the rear, but in the mag body, it sets fine. It now holds 9x23 perfectly.    I make some dummy rounds and test. It feeds just fine. So yesterday I give it a try. No sights, no handguard, just point it into the berm and hand cycle each time. I fired 50 rounds with zero issues. No jams, no mis feeds, ejected fine every time. Now it is for the real challenge. Making it semi auto. This is where I am currently stuck. CMMG makes a 10mm RDB upper, and I was wondering if the RDB system for that might work with the 9x23. However the thing that worries me is 9x23 is a 55kpsi cartridge, where 10mm is only 37,500psi. I wonder if 9x23 would be too much for the delayed blowback. Macon armory make a 45 auto direct impingement upper. I would not have through 45 made enough gas to run a DI BCG/upper, but apparently it does. So that got me wondering if 9x23 might have enough gas? Where to put the gas port, what size to make it? I guess you could go slightly large and use a adjustable gas block. Maybe lighten the buffer and/or the carrier if needed? I am just not sure what direction to go. I fear 9x23 might be too much for delayed blowback, but might not be enough for DI/gas operated. Thought I might see if anyone has any ideas or insight/experience |
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I would just tap it at pistol length and make the port large, if the gas is too much you can always dial back with an adjustable gb. You don't want to go too long and starve it. I'd stay as short as possible. If it is truly 55k though, I would bet you could go longer, id experiment after getting the first barrel working. Lighter carrier/buffer/spring combo can help but is a secondary fix. And can introduce things like bolt bounce, which may not be that big of a deal so long as you have no plans to put it on a full auto lower. I think anyone who builds alot of ARs should keep a spare of every buffer weight and spring weight to trouble shoot and play with. Makes it real easy to test the limits of a gas system. |
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Originally Posted By amphibian: I think you would be fine going gas operated especially because you are using that long barrel so you have plenty of dwell time. I think 10mm was pushing the limits of the RDB system and so I don't think it would be a good idea to try to use it for 9x23 either. Yea that was one thing that I was curious about. Thinking at what point does it stop being safe in delayed roll back, and needing locked breech. However, 308 win works fine with roller delayed, and it it high pressure too. However the roller delayed systems in the 308 HK's is a different type than the CMMG. HK style roller delayed would be way too much work for this type of project. |
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Originally Posted By FoxValleyTacDriver: I would just tap it at pistol length and make the port large, if the gas is too much you can always dial back with an adjustable gb. You don't want to go too long and starve it. I'd stay as short as possible. If it is truly 55k though, I would bet you could go longer, id experiment after getting the first barrel working. Lighter carrier/buffer/spring combo can help but is a secondary fix. And can introduce things like bolt bounce, which may not be that big of a deal so long as you have no plans to put it on a full auto lower. I think anyone who builds alot of ARs should keep a spare of every buffer weight and spring weight to trouble shoot and play with. Makes it real easy to test the limits of a gas system. That was my thought too. Make the gas port a tad large and use a adjustable gas block to fine tune. I do have spare buffers and buffer weights in steel, tungsten, and aluminum. So I can tune buffer weight. My biggest thing was figuring out where to put the gas port. I do not want it to be too far away and not get enough gas pressure. Looking online, it seems the "pistol" length gas tube is 4 inches. I do not see any shorter than that. I also do not know what length gas tube Macon armory uses with their 45 DI uppers. I my send them a email asking. And a FRT is not out of the question  but that is a long way away.
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| Pistol is a common length and "micro" is sort of common with kak and other makers and is pistol -1.5". There was a thread on here a few years back about a di 10mm where he had a 16" barrel, pistol gas, and ran a standard 6.8 bcg and empty buffer. I think he eventually switched to a lw bcg and then added weight eith the buffer as needed to get full reliability. |
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What you need to do is match the weight of the bolt and buffer match the bullet and velocity. For example, I’ve managed to get my semi automatic AR in 10mm to work, but I had to get the bolt and buffer weight up 35oz. So, you need to find out the velocity out of your barrel and go from there. Just ball parking the numbers with rough estimates, I figure you need around 29/30 oz combined weight. That’s actually pretty easy to do for a blowback. But, that’s a ballpark based on a 124gr bullet at 1800fps, which I am just guessing for a 16” barrel. |
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Originally Posted By Sailormilan2: What you need to do is match the weight of the bolt and buffer match the bullet and velocity. For example, I’ve managed to get my semi automatic AR in 10mm to work, but I had to get the bolt and buffer weight up 35oz. So, you need to find out the velocity out of your barrel and go from there. Just ball parking the numbers with rough estimates, I figure you need around 29/30 oz combined weight. That’s actually pretty easy to do for a blowback. But, that’s a ballpark based on a 124gr bullet at 1800fps, which I am just guessing for a 16” barrel. Is your 10mm DI? I do not know what the velocity is out of the 16in barrel. I should have brought out the garmin and checked. I am curious, so maybe I will load up some more and check. |
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Originally Posted By SSTPAC: Pistol is a common length and "micro" is sort of common with kak and other makers and is pistol -1.5". There was a thread on here a few years back about a di 10mm where he had a 16" barrel, pistol gas, and ran a standard 6.8 bcg and empty buffer. I think he eventually switched to a lw bcg and then added weight eith the buffer as needed to get full reliability. I just saw the gas tubes on KAK's site. Now I am debating on getting the pistol length or the micro length. Maybe I should get both. Try the pistol length first and if I can not get it to work, tack weld up the hole and drill a new one for the micro length tube. I mean, this is still a experiment/prototype and not a finished project. I still have another barrel blank if I mess up the first one. I do have a spare superlative arms clamp on adjustable gas block in the parts bin. It is left over from when I converted one of my AR's to gas piston. So I will use that. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Is your 10mm DI? I do not know what the velocity is out of the 16in barrel. I should have brought out the garmin and checked. I am curious, so maybe I will load up some more and check. No. My 10mm is a blowback. I managed to get the bolt weight up to 16.1oz, by using a KAK 9mm tungsten bolt weight. For the buffer I used an 11oz(actually 10.8oz) KAK buffer. Plus, a homemade tungsten buffer weight that weighs 5.6oz. Finally I used a 1” buffer spacer that weighs 2.5oz. So, my total moving weight is 35oz. That with a SpringCo orange spring. I don’t care for the jury rigged buffer. Once I get my lathe fixed, I will custom make a rifle length buffer out of steel, and make it hollow to take buffer weights. I should be able to get the weight up to about 20+ oz. This works for my 180gr reloads which chrono at 1600fps out of my 16” PCC. The same loads do about 1300fps out of my 1911. |
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PISTOL GAS IS PROBABLY TOO LONG! POSSIBLY MICRO TOO! I'm pretty certain Macon Armory's gas blocks for .45 ACP DI uppers are positioned at a custom length, I believe shorter than most "micro" lengths, and well shorter than pistol gas tube length. They BARELY sit past the barrel extension, just fore of USGI barrel nut. 9mm, in DI configuration, the port has to be tapped at a point that would be inside the standard barrel nut, so it's not done on standard AR uppers. (It IS done, and done successfully, but with a different barrel/upper - SIG MPX, I believe.) Those are both VERY short gas systems. I know 9x23 is higher pressure, but it's still a pistol sized internal capacity. Compare to other rounds of the same bore diameter: .350 Legend - 36.5 grain capacity @ 55k psi; 9x23 17.4 grain capacity @ 55k psi, and 9mm 13.3 gr @ 35k psi. In >= 16" bbls, .350 L uses a carbine length gas system, but in shorter barrels it drops to a pistol length. I would guess at less than half the case capacity of .350L, 9x23 might have trouble generating enough pressure long enough even at pistol with a large port. (The pressure should also be less than half at the same distance down the barrel.) Is it @MadMachinist or @Mad-Machinist ? -- Rudy from Macon Armory might have some advice. Or maybe it's a trade secret. Either way, knowing those two things, think twice before you choose a gas system length for 9x23. |
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For the OP, super interesting build !! I have always thought the 9X23 was a fascinating cartridge. By any chance, do you have any chrono data from your barrel ? I am certainly interested in the increased velocities from the longer barrel. |
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Originally Posted By PreacherOfGadget: PISTOL GAS IS PROBABLY TOO LONG! POSSIBLY MICRO TOO! I'm pretty certain Macon Armory's gas blocks for .45 ACP DI uppers are positioned at a custom length, I believe shorter than most "micro" lengths, and well shorter than pistol gas tube length. They BARELY sit past the barrel extension, just fore of USGI barrel nut. 9mm, in DI configuration, the port has to be tapped at a point that would be inside the standard barrel nut, so it's not done on standard AR uppers. (It IS done, and done successfully, but with a different barrel/upper - SIG MPX, I believe.) Those are both VERY short gas systems. I know 9x23 is higher pressure, but it's still a pistol sized internal capacity. Compare to other rounds of the same bore diameter: .350 Legend - 36.5 grain capacity @ 55k psi; 9x23 17.4 grain capacity @ 55k psi, and 9mm 13.3 gr @ 35k psi. In >= 16" bbls, .350 L uses a carbine length gas system, but in shorter barrels it drops to a pistol length. I would guess at less than half the case capacity of .350L, 9x23 might have trouble generating enough pressure long enough even at pistol with a large port. (The pressure should also be less than half at the same distance down the barrel.) Is it @MadMachinist or @Mad-Machinist ? -- Rudy from Macon Armory might have some advice. Or maybe it's a trade secret. Either way, knowing those two things, think twice before you choose a gas system length for 9x23. I think I am pretty much in uncharted territory with this project. I am to the point I think I am just going to have try something and see what happens. It seems like it might be too much for delayed blowback, but not enough for gas operated. Guess I will pretty much just have to try something and go from there. |
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Originally Posted By bfoosh06: For the OP, super interesting build !! I have always thought the 9X23 was a fascinating cartridge. By any chance, do you have any chrono data from your barrel ? I am certainly interested in the increased velocities from the longer barrel. No I did not have the chrono out when I was test firing. I was just checking function. If I shoot some more, I will chrono them. |
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Originally Posted By Marshal82: I custom built a 9mm and 10mm DI, I had custom barrels and custom gas tubes made. DM me and I can give you more information. IF the 9x23 is the same head as a 9mm a 5.45 bolt works fine. 9X23 WIN is basically standard 9x19 that has been lengthened and the case thickened a little. Same rim diameter as standard 9mm. Good to know about 5.45 bolts. I am not really familiar with that round, so I did not know the dimensions. Glad to know there is one that will work without having to machine one, should I ever need one. |
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Originally Posted By grendelbane: I believe there are 9x23 blowback uppers out there, though I am sure gas operated would be much more pleasant. You can make anything blowback with a heavy enough bolt/buffer. The Japanese had a blowback 20mm cannon in WWII. |
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Originally Posted By 45-Seventy: You can make anything blowback with a heavy enough bolt/buffer. The Japanese had a blowback 20mm cannon in WWII. The 9x23 brass is made heavier to deal with the higher pressures. Winchester also uses Small Rifle primers to deal with the higher pressure. I have read that a 9x23 1911 should be set up similarly to a 10mm. So, using that metric, a combined bolt/buffer weight of about 35oz would be a good place to start. But getting there might take some work. I have finally gotten my 10mm to work safely. I’m now going to refine it. It has a 3 piece buffer now, but I plan on getting that done in a 1 piece buffer. Which should work for the 9x23, though I think it will need to be a little bit lighter. The problem I see with the 9x23 is that while it is a high pressure cartridge, it lacks the case volume for more of a slower burning powder to work in the longer barrel of a PCC. Mt experience has been that I get about a 300fps increase with a 10mm, but about half that with a standard 9mm. So, I would imagine that the 9x23 would be somewhere between the two. Without any testing, I almost think that a 38Super would be better. It has more case volume for a slower burning powder that would work better in a longer barrel. |
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Sorry for the lack of updates, been busy with work, also lots of springtime work around my property to attend to, and a couple other projects have been eating my time. I did load up some more ammo with a load that gets me 1500fps out of my 6in barrel pistol. I ran some through this upper and it averaged 1697 fps. I also found out it will not feed hollow points. First time I tested it was with some FMJ and it had zero feeding issues. This time I loaded some of the HP bullets I had been using in my pistol and it will not feed them at all. They hit the breech face of the barrel. So I had to single load each one when I checked velocity. I did order the KAK "micro" gas tube. |
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Ok, so I had ordered the "micro" gas tube from KAK, but before I drilled the barrel, I wanted to do a experiment. I was still curious about the CMMG RDB system and if it could be made to work. I decided to take a chance and give it a try. My 9mm upper is the new fixed ejector one. I just upgraded to that a few months ago. So I tear it apart, and put my 9x23 barrel onto the RDB fixed ejector upper. I put it on a lower with a rifle stock that uses a rifle length buffer. It has a tubbs flat wire spring in it. I borrow a 10 ounce buffer from a different rifle. I figured I would start with as heavy of a buffer as I could get and see what happens. Since the HP bullets do not want to feed, I just dropped one in the chamber and dropped the bolt. I inserted the empty mag, held it out like a pistol as far away from me as I could, closed my eyes, turned my head and pulled the trigger. I look and the bolt is locked open. I pick up the case and it looks perfectly fine. No bulging, no pushed out primer, nothing out of place on it at all. Looks just like the brass does when it comes out of my pistols. I single load a 2nd one, fire and it locks open too. Brass looks fine as well. I do this for a total of 5 rounds, carefully inspecting the brass after each shot. All look great. I take it back inside and pull the bolt/carrier out and give them a close and careful inspection and it looks fine. I see no issues popping out at me. I'm going to shoot the rest of these HP bullets out of one of my pistols, then reload the brass with FMJ's and then test it out hopefully next weekend. See if it will cycle. If it works, then I will order another one of the fixed ejector kits (which is a upper receiver and BCG) and build it into a complete upper. |
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Originally Posted By Sailormilan2: If it won’t feed HPs, you may need to open the feed rails on the magazine. It shouldn’t take much. Just a few strokes of a file. Since you’re using a gas block, can you use an adjustable gas block and a lighter bolt? That’s a question, not a statement. Re read my last post. I am not using a gas block. I just tested it with a CMMG radial delayed blowback bolt/carrier. |
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Ok, I loaded up 50 rounds of FMJ's and tested it out today. I also ordered a rifle buffer and replaced the 5 steel weights with tungsten and it now weighs 9.7 ounces. I wanted a dedicated buffer so I did not have to borrow one from another rifle. The gun will cycle semi auto with the CMMG RDB and the heavy (9-10oz rifle buffer). However it is inconsistent. And by that I mean it will cycle some, then not, then cycle again. It would cycle great, then a random round would fail to eject. Then fire a few fine, then get a random empty chamber, like it cycled enough to eject, but not pick up the next round. Recoil was also very inconsistent as sometimes you could really feel it cycle hard, like it was too hot, then sometimes it was weak. It is very strange as it is almost like the ammo was all over the place, like shooting cheap 22 when you can hear the difference in the powder charges. However this is my handload and this exact load shoots great in my pistols. I know the powder charges were correct, as I did them myself. So I am going to try a different powder and see how it does with it. The powder I used is a tad on the slower side. So I will try something faster and see if it makes a difference. |
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It sounds like to me like is right on the verge of working, but maybe just a bit too much weight in the buffer? You might try replacing one of the tungsten weights with a steel weight and see if that gets rid of the inconsistency. If it’s better, but still not 100%, then replaced two of the tungsten weights with a steel weight. I shoot quite a few wildcats in the AR platform, but all of mine are gassed, not blow back or radial delayed. But still, it sounds like it’s right on the verge of working so if you reduce that buffer weight some it may help. At least it won’t cost you anything to try. I also agree that switching powders may be a solution. Quite a few times I have had to try different powders in order to get a rifle to function 100%, especially with a .260 Rem with a cursed +2” gas length. |
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I finally got a chance to try it again just this afternoon. Before I was using a powder from American reloading called MP265. It is a somewhat slower pistol powder, but it had been working fine in the pistols. So today I tried the other powder I had been using, power pistol. That seemed to be the trick. The inconsistency was now gone. All shots sounded the same and felt the same. I shot 25 with only one one failure to fully feed. The nose of the round went above the chamber. I then started shooting the other 25 and shot about 5 of them and remembered the lower I was using to test it with, has a FRT. So flick goes the selector and it empties the rest of the mag with no issue. Man that was fun. So 50 rounds, only 1 failure to feed. I am happy with that. This is not something I am going to take into battle, or shoot competition with, so a jam every now and then is ok. This is just a pure and simple range toy. I tore the upper back apart and reassembled the gun as my 9mm (since I "borrowed" the upper and BCG from it). I am now going to order a CMMG fixed ejector kit which comes with the upper and BCG and put my 9x23 barrel on it and pick out a handguard. Since I am using a rifle buffer/tube/stock, (borrowed the lower from another rifle) I am probably see if I can find a used AR locally that already has the rifle stock on it. If not then I will just build one. |
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Alright, I FINALLY got the fixed ejector retrofit kit from CMMG. They drug their feet on shipping it. I gave the barrel a final pass on the lathe to smooth it up, then gave it a light bead blasting, then painted it with some of the BBQ high heat paint. Yea it is not cerracoat, but it will do for now. I assembled the upper with a midwest industries combat rail, a 9mm VG6 muzzle brake, and topped it off with a sightmark reflex sight. I used a old DPMS lower with a rifle length buffer tube and installed my 10 ounce buffer and the tubbs flat wire spring. I also added a hogue stock. I sighted it in today and ran another 50 rounds through it. It ran great and no failures to feed this time. Grouping was not too bad for 50 yards on a unsteady bag. This thing is really fun.  
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Originally Posted By FoxValleyTacDriver: I would just tap it at pistol length and make the port large, if the gas is too much you can always dial back with an adjustable gb. You don't want to go too long and starve it. I'd stay as short as possible. Yeah, the more dwell time after the gas port, the better the chance of making it work reliably. Pistol length might be the LONGEST I'd go. |
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I have a Macon 45 DI. It runs great. The gas block is right up against the barrel nut. And the barrel nut has to be modified since I wanted to use a non standard handguard compared to what he offered at the time (2014). Translation - it's the world's shortest DI gas system. With the higher pressure of the 9x23, I might be tempted to try a pistol length DI system and see if that will work. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Yes, 124gr Cool. Thanks. With those numbers I can put together a blowback 9x23. I’ve got a spare 9mm bbl. What was holding me back was the lack of Glock style mags for the 38Super/9x23. However, with your idea of using a modified 9mm mag, I should be able to get it to work. I will just have to use a different lower. |
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Originally Posted By backbencher: Dammit, OP, I went back and read your OP and you pointed me to 9mm barrel blanks in stock. I have a Mossberg that needs a 9mm barrel. This is the blank I used for this build. https://kakindustry.com/9mm-4150-17-inch-barrel-blank However they are no longer in stock. I had to send 2-3 of them back to exchange them, as I kept getting ones with very poor rifling. Lots of galling and lots of tight spots. I eventually swapped one out for the SS blanks they have. https://kakindustry.com/9mm-416r-1-10-19-5-inch-barrel-blank It seems a lot better made. Rifling seems good and I do not feel any tight spots. I am making another barrel from that blank. I am going to make it a little thicker, at .850, but still 16in. I actually did the profiling of it last weekend. I still need to thread it for the barrel extension, chamber it, then shorten to 16in and thread the muzzle. I'll be curious to see if it is more accurate. But I may end up sending it off to have it nitrided first. I also just ordered a 2nd one of those blanks. I am going to build a pump action (3d printed upper) 9x19 (standard 9mm). What mossberg needs a 9mm barrel? A bolt action of some type? |
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Originally Posted By Sailormilan2: Cool. Thanks. With those numbers I can put together a blowback 9x23. I’ve got a spare 9mm bbl. What was holding me back was the lack of Glock style mags for the 38Super/9x23. However, with your idea of using a modified 9mm mag, I should be able to get it to work. I will just have to use a different lower. Is the barrel nitrided? Most all the AR 9mm barrels I have seen are. If so, you will destroy a chamber reamer trying to cut a new 9x23 chamber. That is why I started with a 9mm barrel blank. I remember reading one time where someone was able to take 10mm glock mags and bend the feed lips a little and got it to feed 9x23. However the super easy to mod endo mag inserts are probably the easiest way to do it. Plus you can use a standard AR lower and not one of those goofy pistol mag lowers that limits you on what you can do with it (as you are finding out). |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Is the barrel nitrided? Most all the AR 9mm barrels I have seen are. If so, you will destroy a chamber reamer trying to cut a new 9x23 chamber. That is why I started with a 9mm barrel blank. I remember reading one time where someone was able to take 10mm glock mags and bend the feed lips a little and got it to feed 9x23. However the super easy to mod endo mag inserts are probably the easiest way to do it. Plus you can use a standard AR lower and not one of those goofy pistol mag lowers that limits you on what you can do with it (as you are finding out). I have two actually. One a Stainless Steel with military step, and one is a tapered barrel that may be nitrided. I’m not sure. If it’s nitrided, it’s very thin. As for the mags, I will have to look at my Glock 10mm mags. But, I think the Endomag modification is the way to go. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: This is the blank I used for this build. https://kakindustry.com/9mm-4150-17-inch-barrel-blank However they are no longer in stock. I had to send 2-3 of them back to exchange them, as I kept getting ones with very poor rifling. Lots of galling and lots of tight spots. I eventually swapped one out for the SS blanks they have. https://kakindustry.com/9mm-416r-1-10-19-5-inch-barrel-blank It seems a lot better made. Rifling seems good and I do not feel any tight spots. I am making another barrel from that blank. I am going to make it a little thicker, at .850, but still 16in. I actually did the profiling of it last weekend. I still need to thread it for the barrel extension, chamber it, then shorten to 16in and thread the muzzle. I'll be curious to see if it is more accurate. But I may end up sending it off to have it nitrided first. I also just ordered a 2nd one of those blanks. I am going to build a pump action (3d printed upper) 9x19 (standard 9mm). What mossberg needs a 9mm barrel? A bolt action of some type? Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Originally Posted By backbencher: Dammit, OP, I went back and read your OP and you pointed me to 9mm barrel blanks in stock. I have a Mossberg that needs a 9mm barrel. This is the blank I used for this build. https://kakindustry.com/9mm-4150-17-inch-barrel-blank However they are no longer in stock. I had to send 2-3 of them back to exchange them, as I kept getting ones with very poor rifling. Lots of galling and lots of tight spots. I eventually swapped one out for the SS blanks they have. https://kakindustry.com/9mm-416r-1-10-19-5-inch-barrel-blank It seems a lot better made. Rifling seems good and I do not feel any tight spots. I am making another barrel from that blank. I am going to make it a little thicker, at .850, but still 16in. I actually did the profiling of it last weekend. I still need to thread it for the barrel extension, chamber it, then shorten to 16in and thread the muzzle. I'll be curious to see if it is more accurate. But I may end up sending it off to have it nitrided first. I also just ordered a 2nd one of those blanks. I am going to build a pump action (3d printed upper) 9x19 (standard 9mm). What mossberg needs a 9mm barrel? A bolt action of some type? You guessed it. Picked up a varmint .223 MVP for cheap, I can feed .380 into the chamber using CMMG ExoMag equivalents. Needs a 9mm barrel, spin it on w/ the barrel nut, then see if I need to enlarge the bolt face or take something off the extractor. |
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Originally Posted By backbencher: You guessed it. Picked up a varmint .223 MVP for cheap, I can feed .380 into the chamber using CMMG ExoMag equivalents. Needs a 9mm barrel, spin it on w/ the barrel nut, then see if I need to enlarge the bolt face or take something off the extractor. I had to open up the AR15 bolt to fit 9mm, as the 9mm case head is a little bigger. I had to look up the MVP as I am not familiar with them. They look to be very close, almost a copy of a savage style action (with some differences). So if the bolt face needs opened up, it should be super easy to do. You have a gunsmith lined up to do it or is this a DIY job? (like me) |
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Originally Posted By Sailormilan2: I have two actually. One a Stainless Steel with military step, and one is a tapered barrel that may be nitrided. I’m not sure. If it’s nitrided, it’s very thin. As for the mags, I will have to look at my Glock 10mm mags. But, I think the Endomag modification is the way to go. The stainless will be the easiest. Just a little bit of time with a chamber reamer and it will be done. The other one, well nitriding is thin, but super hard. So if it is nitrided, it is best to just keep it as-is. You will ruin a chamber reamer trying to get it to 9x23. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: I had to open up the AR15 bolt to fit 9mm, as the 9mm case head is a little bigger. I had to look up the MVP as I am not familiar with them. They look to be very close, almost a copy of a savage style action (with some differences). So if the bolt face needs opened up, it should be super easy to do. You have a gunsmith lined up to do it or is this a DIY job? (like me) Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Originally Posted By backbencher: You guessed it. Picked up a varmint .223 MVP for cheap, I can feed .380 into the chamber using CMMG ExoMag equivalents. Needs a 9mm barrel, spin it on w/ the barrel nut, then see if I need to enlarge the bolt face or take something off the extractor. I had to open up the AR15 bolt to fit 9mm, as the 9mm case head is a little bigger. I had to look up the MVP as I am not familiar with them. They look to be very close, almost a copy of a savage style action (with some differences). So if the bolt face needs opened up, it should be super easy to do. You have a gunsmith lined up to do it or is this a DIY job? (like me) Should be able to spin the barrel off myself, couple of friends of mine have lathes, worst case I'll send the blank to Paladin Machine in SC. We'll see if I need to open up the bolt face a titch or not. Have some steel case I can chuck into a Dremel. 
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Originally Posted By backbencher: Should be able to spin the barrel off myself, couple of friends of mine have lathes, worst case I'll send the blank to Paladin Machine in SC. We'll see if I need to open up the bolt face a titch or not. Have some steel case I can chuck into a Dremel. Sounds like a interesting project. You will have to post up a thread when you get it done. |
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