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1/17/2016 9:22:54 PM EDT
When installing the lpk do you guys use any typer of lubricant for the parts or do you just instal the parts as they come?
1/17/2016 9:25:03 PM EDT
[#1]
I clean everything with CLP and don't wipe it all off. Gun parts ship in preservative grease, not lubricant.
1/17/2016 9:42:05 PM EDT
[#2]
CLP here also.
1/17/2016 9:46:37 PM EDT
[#3]
I just install them.  At most I'll add a bit of oil to the trigger pins if they really really need it.
 



Nothing in the lower absolutely needs oil/lube on it.  
1/17/2016 10:03:17 PM EDT
[#4]
I clean most of the items where they will contact something and then apply a little oil or grease.
1/17/2016 11:20:56 PM EDT
[#5]
I clean all parts to remove packing grease and apply light film of CLP on everything.
1/18/2016 2:54:02 AM EDT
[#6]
I've oiled the bolt catch rollpin on every lower build but beyond that I just put it together.
1/18/2016 4:45:41 AM EDT
[#7]
As is... CMMG kits usually have a light oil on all the pieces already anyway.
1/18/2016 11:10:34 AM EDT
[#8]
Clean everything, then a light coat of oil on each part as its added to the assembly.  All moving parts need lubrication.  I like Slip 2000 gun oil, but Mobil 1 10W-30 is almost as good and much cheaper.  Recently, I installed some titanium takedown and pivot pins in my ultralight 6.8 build.  It turned out I should have polished them before installing. The receivers are a very tight fit with one another and the slightly rough pins are difficult to move in and out of the holes. - CW
1/18/2016 3:21:21 PM EDT
[#9]
I use a light coat of CLP on the pins, and a dab of grease where the hammer rides on the trigger sear.

see trigger install guide for lube points

http://algdefense.com/installation-guides
1/18/2016 5:59:45 PM EDT
[#10]
I did my first build dry.  Two things I noticed:

The bolt catch roll pin was a bugger to get in.
Everything worked "hard".  Pivot pin and takedown pin were really stiff, selector was not smooth, etc.

Every build since:

I use clp on the bolt catch roll pin...goes in like butter
I use clp in every detent hole.
I use clp on the slots in takedown and pivot pins, and the selector.
I use a special grease on the contact points of the FCG.

After each of these builds, every works smooth as butter.

None of it is necessary, but it all makes  my AR's feel/run smooth as silk from the first round.
1/18/2016 6:28:38 PM EDT
[#11]
I oil everything, its metal on metal friction, and tool steel can rust like you can't believe. The only justification I can see for not oiling is if you WANT accelerated wear, eg to break in a rough trigger.
1/18/2016 6:42:47 PM EDT
[#12]
I put a little oil on everything. Although I forgot to oil the rear take down spring. I'm not taking it apart to oil it though.
1/18/2016 7:59:57 PM EDT
[#13]
Everyone seems to be using oil on their parts, but no one seems to realize that once these parts are inserted into their collective recesses in the lower receiver, access to them for future lubrication is neither easy or practical.  I put a dab of grease in the recesses, and first clean off the pins with an emery cloth and then oil them before I install them.  I've built almost a dozen ARs and only had one issue once.  That was a bad spring in the bolt release recess which turned out to be a bad spring.  With all the precautions to prevent scratches on the surface of the lower receiver, it took me almost an hour to remove the roll pin, inspect the assembly, and put it back together.  It's MUCH easier to over-lube the parts BEFORE assembly.

Just call me "been there; done that"

Rusty Musket
1/18/2016 9:19:58 PM EDT
[#14]
Went in dry. Then put a drop or two of oil on the springs once assembled. It all went in pretty easily. If you do oil it, use it sparingly...parts are small enough as it is. Wouldn't want it slipping away and dropping things.
1/18/2016 10:02:16 PM EDT
[#15]
Package to lower

Drop or 2 on parts that rub. Less oil the better on triggers etc IMO. Less shit to stick to them. Oil attracts too much shit
1/18/2016 10:24:37 PM EDT
[#16]
I used to use CLP now I use Slip2000.
1/18/2016 10:25:28 PM EDT
[#17]
I toss the parts in a small ultrasonic cleaner for about 20 minutes. Then inspect for problems/burrs...

Then a good coat of CPL and install. Add a dab of grease on the trigger/sear/diconnecter mating surfaces.
1/19/2016 8:15:29 AM EDT
[#18]
For shipping and storage, some parts can be coated with corrosion inhibitors by the mfgr.

I clean the parts in mineral spirits. Once dry, I inspect the kit to insure I received everything that I was supposed to and that all the parts appear serviceable.

Hammer and trigger pins get a light coating of grease. Detents, springs ect, get a light application of oil.
1/19/2016 10:20:11 AM EDT
[#19]
Another thing I might add.... hammer and trigger pins that feel a bit rough or gritty, can be smoothed out before assembly. I chuck my pins in an electric drill and turn them between my fingers while applying a bit of Brasso on a patch.
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