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Posted: 8/13/2009 9:43:25 PM EDT
| I cannot get the roll pin in on my trigger guard , & I am afraid that I will break the ears off... ANy suggestions??? |
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Make sure you support the ears on a block of wood or something similar. I start the pin with a hammer and punch, drive it in with channel locks, and finish it off with the hammer and punch
build your own lower |
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edit: ^^^^ just like blaster ^^^^^
I was unable to make the vise grip option work, so I made the trip to the store and bought the roll pin punch set. Got a common set at the auto store that was red-tagged for 5 bucks. The point is, considering the cost of the gun vs the cost of the tools to do the job right = no brainer. Ensure that you support the ears or you will be crying for sure. I used a block of plywood w/ a hole slightly larger than the pin. removed the pistol grip to get a better support base lubed the new pin for insertion Link Good luck |
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Quoted:
I had some issues with DPMS roll pins, some work fine, others were just to tight... Don't force it, replace that roll pin. I'm a big fan of RRA roll pins, I replaced the whole set in a DPMS LPK with RRA pins.  i had the same problem with dpms.replaced it with a rra pin and it worked perfect |
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As well as following the above advice, I take a drill bit the size of the hole and manually using my fingers only "drill" any scuffs, rough spots, burrs, etc. out of the hole and I make sure the outer edges of the hole are likewise smooth. Being careful not to scratch the finish while doing so.
Best of luck. Not legal advice, MHO, YMMV, etc. |
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I used the channel lock instead of the vise grip method in the build it yourself thread on my last build, used a lot of tape to protect against scratches, also lubed the roll pin, then finished it with light taps on a support block (grip not installed).
That was my last trigger guard that installed which was my 4th time, before that I used the old punch and brass hammer method with a support block, no problems with the old method. If you don't want to use the roll pin ask Rainier Arms if they still sell the Magpul aluminum trigger guard with mounting screws instead of a roll pin. |
| I am not an expert builder by any means, but in the two builds that I have done I found that all of the roll pins were WAY too tight. There was no way I was going to get the trigger guard pin in without breaking something even using the vise grip method. The AR reference book that I was using suggested filing/sanding the tips of the pins to make insertion easier. I went one step further and chiucked them in a drill and sanded off quite a bit of metal along the whole length of the pins . The pins went in very nicely then and are staying put. . |
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Quoted:
Thanks guys... wish me luck. If you pre- crimp or file the roll pin a little, oil it up and pass it through just the trigger guard outside of the lower receiver a few times, it makes assembly a whole lot easier. I have learned never to use the DPMS split pins as they are oversized and I always use the RRA coiled spring pins. I also recommend getting a real roll pin punch - makes a world of difference. Grainger or MSC has real tool steel US made ones. |
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Like posted above , oil the roll pin a bit. place a wood block under the ear for support.
I have never used a hammer to install a roll pin. I use 2 punches - First I hold the roll pin in position with my thumb and forefinger, and tap it in to getted it started with a large diameter steel punch - once started, I place a smaller punch on the roll pin and tap the punch with another larger diameter steel punch. I just keep tapping , little by little, the roll pin goes in completely. No broken ears and hearts! 
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Like said above, I hand twist a drill bit in the holes to make sure there's no buggers left from finishing the receiver then oil the heck out of both ears, the trigger guard and the roll pin (no such thing as too much lube ). Put the guard into place and start tapping the pin in. The coiled pins are much nicer than the usual split pins. I have used a pair of small needlenosed Visegrips to gently squeeze the split pins to make install easier. Dressing a bevel on the front edge also helps if you pin doesn't already have a bevel.
Use a block of some sort, use plenty of lube, go slow and easy and you won't have any problems. Good luck and post pics when done! |
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What works for me is to use a c-clamp to squeeze it in, as well as a little lube. I pad the "screw" end of the clamp with electrical tape so as not to mar the receiver, and place that against the receiver. The "frame" end of the clamp presses against the end of the pin. I find that this method supports the tang on the receiver to prevent it from breaking, allows one to very easily feel and control the pressure on the pin, and permits you to easily adjust the angle that the pin is inserted by moving the end of the clamp around. The c-clamp moves in a "straight-line" push, while any method involving vise-grips, channel locks, etc. work in a arc due to the design of the pivot of the tool.
I've done several of them - different receivers and different LPK's, with 0 problems. |
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