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Posted: 9/29/2011 10:48:17 AM EDT
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So, I am embarking on my first build (and last, if my wife find out how much it will cost). I am attempting to build a 3gun geared Recce that does not sacrifice real world/SHTF functionality. I want a relatively lightweight, accurate, and reliable weapon that I can use at medium/long range and up close.
Here is my current build plan: [i(]* means I already have purchased)[/i] Lower: *Mega billet lower <–––– Purely because it looks great *G and R tactical lpk <–––– Good mix of high quality parts Geissiel sd-e <––––A no screw battle trigger that allows for high precision AND quick up close work. Flat trigger bow is pretty cool stuff. A5 vltor buffer system <––––- Decreased perceived recoil, increased reliability Vltor imod <–––– lightweight, good cheek weld, I like how it looks. Moe+ grip <–––– I like it. Upper: *Mega forged a4 upper with m4 feed ramps <––-Quality forged upper, matches finish/brand on lower. Vtac trx ff rail <––––-Lightweight, FF for accuracy, Looks great. *Noveske n4 chf 16 inch, shaved fsb gb <––- Maximum accuracy in a Chrome lined, 16 inch middy, lightweight barrel. Considered stainless (Noveske rouge hunter in particular), but for the weapon to be capable of heavy carbine class type fire required that I use a heavier barrel profile than I was willing to deal with. The weapon needs to be accurate enough for 3gun and real use out to 400 yards, while taking a mag dump or 3 in stride. The N4 is quite capable of that from what I have read. It is also not susceptible to rust in adverse/wet conditions like the SS barrels. *Battlecomp <––- Further recoil reduction/muzzle rise, acceptable flash suppression, don't have to be the asshole at the range with the blasty brake. spikes NiB bcg <––- Can run without lubricant in a SHTF pinch, +reliablity. Sights: Magpul mbus <––––lightweight, reasonably priced. Burris mtac 1-4 on larue mount <––- 1-4x allows me to engage from my preferred distance (at range), but won't slow me down for up close work. The burris gets great reviews, has true 1x, easily visible in daylight, and I like the recticle. [i]This should give me a lightweight (6.7 lbs without scope, about 8 with), accurate (1.3 moa according to molon's tests with the n4, which is plenty accurate for serious use and 3 gun), and very sturdy/reliable (NiB bcg, cl bfh barrel). It should shoot like a pellet gun with the middy+a5+bc. The 1-4x mtac is apparently a almost as fast as an aimpoint in cbq but will allow me to reach out to 400 yards.[/i] Here is my tools list. If I am missing anything or if you have an alternate suggestion let me know. *4 Inch Vise *a variety of wrenchs/vise grips etc etc (normal set of everyday tools) Roll Pin Punch Set Block Worx upper vise block Soft Face Mallet Snap Pliers Rotatory Tool for FSB job Tapco Castle Nut Wrench Troy Barrel nut Wrench (for TRX barrel nut) Moly Grease (graphite free) I will borrow a Torque wrench from O-Reillys Autoparts. (edited for easy of reading) |
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Looks fine. The only things I would change would be the optic mount and I would stay away from trigger jobs or lightweight trigger/hammer springs for a SHTF. Sometimes a light trigger wont set off Military Primers. A SHTF should be able to fire any type of ammo (Steel case, Aluminum, Brass, Mil. Primer, Nato, etc)
As far as BCG. I dont know anything about the spikes, But I have a Young Mfg. SP1 (non serrated) M16 Chromed BCG. Clean up is just a matter of wiping it off and its FA rated. For BUIS, I would not go with Plastic Magpul sites. If this is a SHTF gun you want something that will last while being knocked around and thrown around. I wouldnt shave the FSB, I think they look dumb and negate alot of potential. I would look at Front Flip up site, unless you need the Handguard to go over the FSB. Im also not a fan of Front sites that site on top of the handguards, too each their own but I dont like the looks and your having something that sticks up higher and could get snagged. Im running a PRI front flip up with Trijicon Insert and a Wilson Combat rear flip up. It has Elevation AND Windage adjustments and its one of the lowest profile rear sites, there may be others, but this is what i put on all my ARs. Basically just build it and see how it does. 3gun and tactical rifle competitions are a good way to test it and see what works. Most of us build an AR and then learn what works and what doesnt, so dont get married to some of the things on your AR, you may change it later on. But really get a feel for it when you shoot it. And try different ammo, even some steel cased stuff, just not too much of it. |
| Hey shoulder, next time you post a website URL look below the text box second icon from the right. The world icon with a chain link, paper clip, push that one and copy your link into it. Then when someone goes to check out your link he only has to click on it and not copy and paste it himself. Just a heads up, not trying to be a prick, lol. As for your choices, very cool build, some nice pieces you have there, can't wait to see it put all together. I am waiting on my MOE+Grip LPK from PSA to arrive. I have never tried the grip but have read a lot of great things. Good luck, your combo should be killer! |
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Why would you change the optic mount, and to what? I want my scope on a quick release mount so it can be removed if damaged.
I have never heard of a properly installed SD/e/SSA/e giessele having an issue with light strikes, though have read about plenty of issues with bubba jobs/adjustable triggers. Have you? everyone I have talked to.read says they are GTG. The FSB shave looks is a non issue for me as the hanguard will be covering it. I want a pinned gas block and this is a quick, strong lightweight option. If I can find a good deal on some troy flip ups I would consider it, but they are farther down in my priority list as they will be sighted in and likely never (or rarely) shot again. I love my platic pistols and am not scared by a little polymer. I can imagine anything that would break an mbus would damage a metal sight as well. I have pos broken luminox watch with tritium inserts I may scavenge/bubba and use to turn the MBUS into a night sight, since they are so cheap 
Thanks for the input, It gives me some stuff to think on. It's nice to know I am not way off track. |
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I prefer Bobro mounts. I think they have a nice finish and just as strong.
http://www.bobroengineering.com/browse/category/scopemounts/ As far as the trigger, Yes, I have heard of aftermarket triggers causing light strikes in military primers. any time you go lighter springs be it bubba job or aftermarket, you run into potential light strikes. As far as your build, not sure why you even asked, seems your mind is pretty much made up. |
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Mind IS about 90% made up on the general function/form of the rifle, but I am open to specifics (brand/type) on most stuff. I just want people to try pushing me in various directions before I make final purchases. Helps me consider things I had not thought of.
You have made me consider a different scope mount. I will have to do some research on them. Look very nice. I will likely also search for a deal on some troy flip ups, if they can be had reasonably. (The Geisseles do not use lighter hammer springs. The lighter trigger is done via geometry.) |
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