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Posted: 6/25/2009 11:16:45 AM EDT
| For argument sake I am going to be using Loctite. Where and what kind do I use on a complete build? |
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Quoted:
Grip screw? Do I need it there? Mine threaded on tight to begin with. I do, but it's not nessecary. Cassel nut? Even with staking? Do I need it on the buffer tube? Or does the cassel nut fix that?
No, a good stake on your castle nut is all you need FSB?
I use red Loctite on set screws. Don't put any between the barrel and the gas block. Flash hider?
No. Use a crush or peel washer for flash hiders that you want to index, like A2 and Phantoms. So on and so on.
I use blue Loctite on optic mounts. |
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I do think locktite can be used on some AR's.
I have a MI Free Float Handguard you putt it together with screws. I use blue locktite on the screws.. Why wouldnt you??? Rather be safe than sorry. $.02 Edit: Just so you know they sent lock tite with the free float handguard kit 
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| if you go to the Loctite site you will see the strength (designated by color) of loctite has one indicator which goes by the size/diameter of the threaded fastener. For small screws such as are found in scope rings and such the proper strength/color is purple. The purple color is "weaker" than the blue color loctite however the blue is much easier to find and therefore is used by many since the blue is available at almost all auto parts stores. The purple is more difficult to find but is available if you search or special order it. In a pinch and you feel you MUST use some sort of threadlocker clear nail polish will work....<><....:) |
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My rule of thumb, yours may differ.
If the hardware you want to stay put, already has a locking feature, staking, lock washer ect…ect….then Loctite will really serve no purpose. If the hardware you want to stay put, has no locking feature, as in scope rings for example, then a dab of Blue Loctite should suffice. |
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