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Posted: 11/18/2007 9:58:59 AM EDT
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I just got my new Bushmaster and when I cleaned all the packing grease and stuff out of it, I proceeded to lube up the gun with Hoppe's Lubricating Oil. A link is below that discribes the particular type of oil: http://www.hoppes.com/products/lubricating_oil.html Is this correct oil to lube up a standard AR15 with? If not, will it damage the rifle if I shoot it with this type of lube? I have some CLP coming this week, but I may be out shooting before then. |
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i have been using a light coat of rig universal grease on the moving parts of all my semi auto pistols and ar15s after using rig on the hinge of my beretta o/u. i found that light oils burn off, esp if you are rapid firing. it finally dawned on me to try the rig last summer when i kept relubing the light stuff--well, not any more. clp works well, of course. i like what an instructor once mentioned--lube where the parts rub--anything that looks like a rail and the areas that become shiny after a few trips to the range--you want to slide and glide, not rub and wear. oh yeah--no wd40. |
| depends on rapid fire and ammo type--usually hundreds. i am not saying that hoppes won't let the gun run. i advocate a light coat of grease because i have had very, very few malfunctions regardless of ammo brand or fire rate. the guns run better than with oil even when very dirty. also, rig won't ooze all over the place when the gun and/or the outside temps go up. i live in the deep south, and in the summer especially, the lighter oils would burn off and ooze all over from pistols and rifles. a little dab will do ya. |
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If you are like me and you want to use the *best* stuff on the market (according to the numbers/stats) give Maddog Labs XF-7 grease a look for the cam pin and other BCG parts and float some LaRue machine-gunners lube on that. CLP is great but contains teflon, which forms a acid vapor when it burns. This being said, decades of weapons users have never had an issue with this that I know of and it is purely academic. PS. Currently I lube a lot of stuff with CLP and am not worried about it, just giving you the hard numbers though. FP10 is great for wear resistance if you want to go the cheaper route. A good grease like RIG+P will also work where you need a heavier lube. MD XF-7 and LaRue MGL are just the designer lubes. They don't experience "burn-off for 700*F XF-7 and 1,000*F MGL, neither will release a harmful (to your metal) vapor or "bake on" like some lubes. |
What numbers/stats? Temperature rating? That's put out by the manufactures to look good. If someone gets their AR to 1000F, you have more important things to worry about than what type of lube you are using. XF-7 looks like little more than silicone brake grease (down to the MSDS) and silicone is a poor metal to metal lube anyway. And the MGL? About all we know about that is that it is overpriced and doesn't protect from rust very well. How are these the *best*? |
end-user reviews from non-affiliated people are pretty favorable. There are several guys out there who have had it eliminate carbon formation on the bolt tail and in the BCG. Just wipes right off. I have also seen tests done with CLP/Mobil 1/MD XF-7 where they were lined up on a steel sheet and heated from below. The others left a nasty residue while the XF-7 did not boil off, nor leave a residue. It protected and the metal under it was still in good condition. I myself have had Weapon Shield and BF CLP burn off and leave a varnish in tests that I have done. BTW, how does MGL not protect well? Do you spray your weapon with salt water and not clean it for (is it 20 days now?)? Since I have NOT used said products (other than the WS/CLP/FP-10, I cannot comment from MY experience. Perhapse someone who has used them will post up their experience. here is what I base my info on XF-7 off of. Yes it IS MD himself saying it, but I don't see anything but good in the other posts either. Linky |
I researched it and it contains some uncool stuff (chlorine) and it doesn't protect against rust at all almost. At least when I tested it against other lubes. Rem-oil spray did better. |
Do some more research in other places besides the Milicrap website.
How hot? How long? Again, if your gun is seeing the kind of temp that discolors metal, you are altering the heat treat of the metal, and the type of lube you use is not the big concern at that point. Boiling points for most oils are > 400F. How often do guns see that type of sustained temp?
Yes, I have read that before and he is full of it. The "myth busting" that he does about "molecular bonding" tells me that he knows jack squat about lubrication because it is all false. Anyone that has a differential on their car has used "molecular bonding" lubrication chemistry before. The chemicals react with the base metal to form slippery films on the surface that reduce wear and metal transfer. This is lubrication fact. Since he does not seem to know this most basic information, it makes me seriously question his product and knowledge of the field. And yes, silicone is very good for high temps, and it sticks well. This is why it is used on vehicle brakes, but brakes are short stroke, slow moving, non-momentum mechanisms. Guns are a very different matter. |
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