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7/15/2004 3:08:57 PM EDT
The instructions for installing the Troy MRF-C say to torque the hex screws to 1/8" deflection (although Troy told me by email to torque to 1/4" deflection).  Can somebody tell me what torque range this would be.  I would feel a whole lot better torquing to a known value.
7/15/2004 6:40:57 PM EDT
[#1]
Send Troy an email, ask them.
7/15/2004 6:45:16 PM EDT
[#2]

Quoted:
Send Troy an email, ask them.



I emailed them twice and they only said torque to 1/4" deflection, but wouldn't give me a torque value.
7/15/2004 7:26:33 PM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
The instructions for installing the Troy MRF-C say to torque the hex screws to 1/8" deflection (although Troy told me by email to torque to 1/4" deflection).  Can somebody tell me what torque range this would be.  I would feel a whole lot better torquing to a known value.



Does that mean the allen wrench is deflecting 1/4" from straight?  (I'm using an allen wrench with a handle so I have good leverage.)

On the prototype that I played around with, I cranked it down pretty hard.  I was probably exceeding their recommendations.  At some point excessive torque doesn't do any good and can cause problems, that I can admit.  But using a "reasonable amount" of excessive torque was fine.

I've not had any instruction in putting the MRF on, but cranked that sucker down pretty tight.  I've had ZERO problems in rotation and even return to zero when I remove the rail completely and reinstall.

In light of this information I'll probably try a bit less torque and see how it works.  (But it works with more.)

YMMV

Corey
7/16/2004 4:27:41 AM EDT
[#4]
Yeah, I did about like Corey.  I guess I wasn't too sure what to make of the 1/8" deflection bit in the instructions.  I just cranked it down to a reasonable pressure, turning a 1/4 trun on each bolt in a criss-cross pattern once they started getting tight.  Tightened 'em till they didn't want to tighten anymore with just a little pressure on the allen wrench, not too much.

Since it is being clamped around the barrel nut, I figured the actual torque value wouldn't be as critical, except not wanting to exceed the the threads allowable torque.  BUt I opted to not use the torque wrnech for this install.

I would like to see what the official troque value would be though.

I wil say this, like Corey, I have no movement whatsoever, very sturdy.
7/16/2004 7:35:24 AM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
Yeah, I did about like Corey.  I guess I wasn't too sure what to make of the 1/8" deflection bit in the instructions.  I just cranked it down to a reasonable pressure, turning a 1/4 trun on each bolt in a criss-cross pattern once they started getting tight.  Tightened 'em till they didn't want to tighten anymore with just a little pressure on the allen wrench, not too much.

Since it is being clamped around the barrel nut, I figured the actual torque value wouldn't be as critical, except not wanting to exceed the the threads allowable torque.  BUt I opted to not use the torque wrnech for this install.

I would like to see what the official troque value would be though.

I wil say this, like Corey, I have no movement whatsoever, very sturdy.



That's exactly the method I used.  I just want to make sure I'm not galling the threads or anything.
8/3/2004 12:06:00 AM EDT
[#6]
Am I correct that the MRF can be installed on a rifle with a pinned brake, by just cutting off the Delta Ring with a Dremel or some other tool? :) In other words, no barrel pulling, and removal of the FSB?



8/3/2004 2:05:36 AM EDT
[#7]

Quoted:
Am I correct that the MRF can be installed on a rifle with a pinned brake, by just cutting off the Delta Ring with a Dremel or some other tool? :) In other words, no barrel pulling, and removal of the FSB?






That is correct.  There is a top half and a bottom half that clamp together around the barrel nut.
8/3/2004 2:13:33 AM EDT
[#8]
Sweet. What about the handguard cap thou? Looks like that will need Dremel'd off too. If so, not a big deal really....

8/3/2004 2:23:32 AM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:
Sweet. What about the handguard cap thou? Looks like that will need Dremel'd off too. If so, not a big deal really....




You can leave the handguard cap.  The MRF clears it.
8/3/2004 2:30:03 AM EDT
[#10]

You can leave the handguard cap. The MRF clears it.


Even on the CX model? Thanks :)

8/3/2004 4:06:46 AM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:

You can leave the handguard cap. The MRF clears it.


Even on the CX model? Thanks :)




Yup, even on the CX model, there is a cutout for the cap:

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