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Posted: 3/24/2013 9:33:04 AM EDT
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I sent off some of my 20 rd. magazines years ago to a company that did refinishing back to the original powder coat finish.
But it was so long ago, I can't find their information again. Anyone know of a company that will strip, sandblast and recoat the magazines? Thanks, David |
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I refinished 5 of my scruffy looking ones using the CRC spray. Did one as a trial run and learned
a few things so the rest turned out excellent. Mainly, just do what the tutorial says. I also warmed up the can before applying. My only "goof" was not smoothing the old finish a little finer on the first one.. And keep the can at least 12 in. from the mags when spraying....several thin coats a few minutes apart. Good luck! |
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I just received 2 cans of Dry Moly Lube and took several of my much worn USGI mags out to work on.
I used fine steel wool and rubbed'em down a little, then a couple light coats, let'em dry a couple hours.. I then baked them for 1 hr @ 275'F (had found 250' and 300'F mentioned) I split the difference Jeez, these things came out nice looking and seemingly pretty tough. I've never really been one to worry about aesthetics, I use mags till they quit, but these now look near new. My question, is the bake step really needed? Does it cure the Moly tougher? I have 25 or so out laying in the sun now, kinda baking. Is going to be a lot of work doing all my mags (and I'll need several more cans). Do all of you guys bake the mags? And if so, if not, how do the results differ These mags look almost too purty to use now |
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I baked mine, just cause that is what was recommended. I guess it makes since
and it's not really a bother (unless you stink up the kitchen and piss off the queen ).
I know I've read that some of the newer paints and coatings take about a week to totally harden. If you are in a hurry, then bake and shoot. |
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I'm fussy about my guns and optics but mags not at all. They get rubbed together, they fall on the ground and they wear. I still use some I bought back in 1985 with the finish almost gone and they work just fine. Is this all about looks? I know a guy that painted all of his a few years ago, now he keeps them separate so they don't rub each other and worries about a scratches in the finish from using them. I don't get it. |
That Moly is a very tough film. I started using it on mags many years ago using a Kano Labs (makers of 'Kroil') product called 'Moly-Film'. I used it on some lawnmower axles a few times and like to never got the excess off the white plastic wheels. . It is basically a non-dimensional (near-zero film thickness) coating and a dry lubricant that must have some penetration at the molecular level because it really stays on magazines. You can use it inside your upper receiver to refresh the dry-lube coating after degreasing. I never tried baking it but I can see how that might be even better. Wear Nitrile mechanic's gloves when using this stuff - it's hard to get off your skin because of instant penetration.
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Quoted:
I'm fussy about my guns and optics but mags not at all. They get rubbed together, they fall on the ground and they wear. I still use some I bought back in 1985 with the finish almost gone and they work just fine. Is this all about looks? I know a guy that painted all of his a few years ago, now he keeps them separate so they don't rub each other and worries about a scratches in the finish from using them. I don't get it. I don't know about the other peoples' reasons, nor can I speak for them. I really do not worry about the finish on my rifles, optics, or mags. BUT I thought I'd try a little Dry Moly Lube on a few just for sh!ts and grins. I do know that a dry lube finish is part of the mil-spec for mags. I'm not fussy at all about my weapons nor optics, could really give a sh!t about scratches and wear (but for maybe .25 per mag cost, why not)? It took one partial afternoon (when I had nothing else to do). It is not paint, I wouldn't bother. It is a functional dry lube, quite durable. After I finished I tossed'em back in boxes with the other more worn mags. I now have mags from the 60s/70s that look much better and have a renewed dry lube coat that really is functional. I don't much give a crap about aesthetics, it's more than that. Like the last post said, it is the similar coating used on mil-spec receivers internally, used for a reason? So, to answer the question, no, it's not all about looks, at least not for me. But, it hurts nothing and is a tough, slick dry lubricating finish. I baked a handfull, the rest were just sun baked and tossed in a box till needed. Of the hundred or so I keep loaded, many still look like hell, but all have been function tested many cycles. I only worry about function, but looking good hurts nothing in this case. I may will do more when I get more spare time, which a forced early retirement now allows. |
| drilling window in pmag I can tell you from my army days we had our weapon in our hands so long . we could tell you from its feel if the mag was full or not.... some guys were so good they used to bet beers they would toss us there weapon and we would place a mag with a known amount of rounds and let him hold there weapon for ten seconds and pass it back. and tell us the rounds in it............. how some guys could tell you there was 7 or 22 rounds .. and some of these guys... could do it with differnt types of 5.56 ammo....... shocking... thats a skill.......... and figure in that guys would add stuff on the rail day or night and still be able to play the game with a good amount of accuracy................those are the guys you want fighting on your side.... |
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).
. It is basically a non-dimensional (near-zero film thickness) coating and a dry lubricant that must have some penetration at the molecular level because it really stays on magazines. You can use it inside your upper receiver to refresh the dry-lube coating after degreasing. I never tried baking it but I can see how that might be even better. Wear Nitrile mechanic's gloves when using this stuff - it's hard to get off your skin because of instant penetration.