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Mk 18 / CQBR (Page 1609 of 1609)
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Originally Posted By USMC88-93: Debating trying the Knights micro front sight instead of the Knights M4 front sight on MK18 just to try a narrower front sight post. However, if the internet is to be believed the thicker front sight post is actually easier to pick up quickly at closer ranges but a narrower post would allow for more precise longer range shots. Sounds like it is yet another case of try both and decide based on personal preference and use case. Rifle has an optic I'm just trying to get the rest of it dialed in. Mk18 aren’t competitive at Camp Perry. Narrow maybe for a Mk12 instead |
De Oppresso Liber
Iraq: 91,03,04,05,06,08,09,15,16,22-26'
Afghanistan: 09,10,11,14,17,-21'
Iraq: 91,03,04,05,06,08,09,15,16,22-26'
Afghanistan: 09,10,11,14,17,-21'
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Originally Posted By Combat_Diver: Mk18 aren't competitive at Camp Perry. Narrow maybe for a Mk12 instead |
Plays well with self, and cleverly disguised as a responsible adult.
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Originally Posted By USMC88-93: Debating trying the Knights micro front sight instead of the Knights M4 front sight on MK18 just to try a narrower front sight post. However, if the internet is to be believed the thicker front sight post is actually easier to pick up quickly at closer ranges but a narrower post would allow for more precise longer range shots. Sounds like it is yet another case of try both and decide based on personal preference and use case. Rifle has an optic I'm just trying to get the rest of it dialed in. The 99051 is the only choice. It's the clone-correct BUIS, and it looks far better regardless. The thicker post is probably faster, but it's not as if a 10.3" is exactly fitting the bill for "precise longer range" shots in any case. I'd stick to the superior 99051 and be glad you weren't led astray by such ill-considered flights of fancy like using a KAC micro. |
Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Want To Buy: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan - Geissele S3G
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Want To Buy: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan - Geissele S3G
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Originally Posted By krdt: The 99051 is the only choice. It's the clone-correct BUIS, and it looks far better regardless. The thicker post is probably faster, but it's not as if a 10.3" is exactly fitting the bill for "precise longer range" shots in any case. 
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Plays well with self, and cleverly disguised as a responsible adult.
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Originally Posted By USMC88-93: My question was not directly intended for "precision longer range with it" and I perhaps should have worded the question differently without that cut n paste interned description towards strictly how and why a thicker post is "easier to pick up". As an aside its not clone correct already as I put a Triple Tap on it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/66241/TTT__1_-3826511.jpg If you hide it under an NT4, no one needs to know. |
Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Want To Buy: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan - Geissele S3G
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Want To Buy: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan - Geissele S3G
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Originally Posted By krdt:If you hide it under an NT4, no one needs to know.  |
Plays well with self, and cleverly disguised as a responsible adult.
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Originally Posted By USMC88-93: That was the theory, buy a 30 year old can design and willingly pay 3 times what it's worth.https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/66241/NT4__1_-3826696.jpg Eh, don't feel bad; the NT4 is a fantastic can. Overpriced and a bit heavy, but don't let the "anything that isn't a flow design suddenly isn't usable" crowd lead you astray. They're not as tough as an RC, but to this day, there's still nothing that beats the tone of an NT4. Even considering age and cost, it's a can design that, in my opinion, remains completely viable and competitive against modern alternatives. Personally, given a choice between the latest and greatest titanium flow design and an NT4, I'd take the NT4 every day and twice on Sunday. No question. You can abuse legacy cans like the NT4 and RC regularly in ways that would result in most modern cans setting on fire and melting down, lol. |
Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Want To Buy: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan - Geissele S3G
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Want To Buy: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan - Geissele S3G
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Knights 99051 with a 50 yard zero. Front sight post ended up this high, I really don't feel like screwing with the rail to improve this but my OCD might not let me. How high for the post when zeroed is "typical" for these? It's paired with a rear Knights 2-600 USMC Marked Micro. 25650-1 that was bottomed out at the 200 markings. 
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Originally Posted By USMC88-93: Knights 99051 with a 50 yard zero. Front sight post ended up this high, I really don't feel like screwing with the rail to improve this but my OCD might not let me. How high for the post when zeroed is "typical" for these? It's paired with a rear Knights 2-600 USMC Marked Micro. 25650-1 that was bottomed out at the 200 markings. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/66241/Knights_FSB-3828274.jpg |
Collector, historian, and enthusiast of A.R.M.S. rails, mounts, and accessories.
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Originally Posted By CentexAK: First post. Mock 18. Have a Wilcox mount on the way then I think I'll leave this one alone. https://i.postimg.cc/N0JwnBSc/1000017819.jpg Put aside a few coins to change the rail out while you're at it. |
God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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Originally Posted By USMC88-93: Knights 99051 with a 50 yard zero. Front sight post ended up this high, I really don't feel like screwing with the rail to improve this but my OCD might not let me. How high for the post when zeroed is "typical" for these? It's paired with a rear Knights 2-600 USMC Marked Micro. 25650-1 that was bottomed out at the 200 markings. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/66241/Knights_FSB-3828274.jpg It's normal |
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Originally Posted By CentexAK: First post. Mock 18. Have a Wilcox mount on the way then I think I'll leave this one alone. https://i.postimg.cc/N0JwnBSc/1000017819.jpg Nice build but not quite the right thread |
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Originally Posted By USMC88-93: Knights 99051 with a 50 yard zero. Front sight post ended up this high, I really don't feel like screwing with the rail to improve this but my OCD might not let me. How high for the post when zeroed is "typical" for these? It's paired with a rear Knights 2-600 USMC Marked Micro. 25650-1 that was bottomed out at the 200 markings. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/66241/Knights_FSB-3828274.jpg Eh, pretty normal. Depends on the gun, but all 4 of mine (with 300M rears) are roughly within that sort of range for a 50-yard zero. I don't have threads showing, so you might be a little above average, but it's by no means massively out of line. I wouldn't worry about it; they're adjustable for a reason. |
Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Want To Buy: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan - Geissele S3G
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Want To Buy: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan - Geissele S3G
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Now to: 1. Move it to my other SBR lower with matching SOPMOD furniture. 2. Decide if I want to move the DBAL back on the rail and turn the front sight around or keep it that far forward on the rail with the sight overhanging the suppressor. I probably will have to so I can rotate the NT4 off if carbon locked. I'll also be curious if turning it around changes how high the front post is when zeroed but I doubt it will. 3. Fight with myself for 6 months on weapon light placement Suppressor will stay so I can move it forward past muzzle. And if I want to go with a M340V I have instead of this M640DFT. Along with if i want to switch tail cap on light. 4. Shoot it enough to decide on keeping or swapping the AFG and laser / vis light switches and their placement on rail or go with alternatives. 5. Decide if I want to keep the padded BFG Vickers on it or go with unpadded and / or move front attachment point to the rear of the rail. 5. Shoot it some more, wash, rinse, repeat.     |
Plays well with self, and cleverly disguised as a responsible adult.
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Originally Posted By USMC88-93: Now to: 1. Move it to my other SBR lower with matching SOPMOD furniture. 2. Decide if I want to move the DBAL back on the rail and turn the front sight around or keep it that far forward on the rail with the sight overhanging the suppressor. I probably will have to so I can rotate the NT4 off if carbon locked. I'll also be curious if turning it around changes how high the front post is when zeroed but I doubt it will. 3. Fight with myself for 6 months on weapon light placement Suppressor will stay so I can move it forward past muzzle. And if I want to go with a M340V I have instead of this M640DFT. Along with if i want to switch tail cap on light. 4. Shoot it enough to decide on keeping or swapping the AFG and laser / vis light switches and their placement on rail or go with alternatives. 5. Decide if I want to keep the padded BFG Vickers on it or go with unpadded and / or move front attachment point to the rear of the rail. 5. Shoot it some more, wash, rinse, repeat. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/66241/MK18_Upper__1_-3829622.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/66241/MK18_Upper__3_-3829620.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/66241/MK18_Upper__4_-3829621.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/66241/MK18_Upper__2_-3829623.jpg Yeah, you will absolutely want room to rotate the NT4 if you're shooting it regularly. Early on, I realized I was just going to have to accept a few concessions with my Block II NT4 build due to the need to rotate the NT4 unlatched. Without full rotation, you aren't getting the benefit of the internal carbon cutter, and you're going to have some serious carbon lock issues. Hell, even with full rotation and regular removal, I've still had to spend a good 15 minutes working it back and forth, slowly cutting through the carbon to achieve removal -- just from a day of shooting. I definitely wouldn't recommend leaving it attached for extended periods. The light isn't such a concern as long as you can remove the head to allow unlatched rotation, but as much as I like reversing my 99051s, it ain't worth it when it comes to blocking the latch on the NT4 (unless you want to leave it attached permanently, lol). |
Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Want To Buy: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan - Geissele Mk16 10.5" DDC Gen 1
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Want To Buy: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan - Geissele Mk16 10.5" DDC Gen 1
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Originally Posted By USMC88-93: Now to: 1. Move it to my other SBR lower with matching SOPMOD furniture. 2. Decide if I want to move the DBAL back on the rail and turn the front sight around or keep it that far forward on the rail with the sight overhanging the suppressor. I probably will have to so I can rotate the NT4 off if carbon locked. I'll also be curious if turning it around changes how high the front post is when zeroed but I doubt it will. 3. Fight with myself for 6 months on weapon light placement Suppressor will stay so I can move it forward past muzzle. And if I want to go with a M340V I have instead of this M640DFT. Along with if i want to switch tail cap on light. 4. Shoot it enough to decide on keeping or swapping the AFG and laser / vis light switches and their placement on rail or go with alternatives. 5. Decide if I want to keep the padded BFG Vickers on it or go with unpadded and / or move front attachment point to the rear of the rail. 5. Shoot it some more, wash, rinse, repeat. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/66241/MK18_Upper__1_-3829622.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/66241/MK18_Upper__3_-3829620.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/66241/MK18_Upper__4_-3829621.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/66241/MK18_Upper__2_-3829623.jpg I'm for moving the DBAL backwards and flipping the sight. I used to have mine backwards, but eventually realized that the extra half inch of rail wasn't really doing anything other than making the NT4 a pain in the ass to remove. |
| Anyone have pics of Unity EXPS risers in use on Block IIs? Or are they "too new"? |
The artist formerly known as Blanco_Diablo
The Lord is my light and my salvation; whom shall I fear? The Lord is the stronghold of my life; of whom shall I be afraid? - Psalms 27:1
The Lord is my light and my salvation; whom shall I fear? The Lord is the stronghold of my life; of whom shall I be afraid? - Psalms 27:1
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Originally Posted By Blackbeard91: Anyone have pics of Unity EXPS risers in use on Block IIs? Or are they "too new"? Not that I have seen. I have seen a lot of pics with different risers, and a couple with several risers stacked on top of one another. Ultimately I decided that muscle memory was more important to me than a particular riser. I run 2.26 height on all my red dots. My block II is as close to correct as I can get except for the Unity riser. Well that and the lack of the rear CQD sling swivel thing. I left that off because I hate anything that cramps my hand. |
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Originally Posted By Blackbeard91: Anyone have pics of Unity EXPS risers in use on Block IIs? Or are they "too new"? @Blackbeard91 Don’t know if this is what you are looking for? Attached File |
Mk 18 / CQBR (Page 1609 of 1609)
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