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Posted: 2/3/2018 12:08:31 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell:
You added the MC one while I was responding. That thing it tits!! 
Wish I could afford some KAC.  Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By Spooled:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Thank you very much brosep! I really don't like giving money to optics planet anyways. Not after the shit I've seen them pull to the members of this thread. Not that I have money anyways. 
Johnny, order 2. 1 for you, and swap my 200 lumen M600C head with the 1500 lumen head, then return it to optics planet. Fuck those clowns.
ETA apparently thank you as well sqirrrrrrrrelllllllll  
Thanks again dude you are the man! Krdt- I have to agree, the M300 series is where its at for size and weight. Probably my favorite Scout choice based off that. But I mean shit, at 1500 lumens I'm surprised the thing isn't restricted due to fire hazard or retina frying.
https://i.imgur.com/lqrfMEa.png https://i.imgur.com/xjf7aj0.png
Wish I could afford some KAC. 
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IN, USA
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Posted: 2/3/2018 12:44:51 AM EDT
[#2]
That's one freakishly long arm. Or mine are freakishly short. I can just about get that same grip on a block2.
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IN, USA
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Posted: 2/3/2018 12:53:14 AM EDT
[#3]
Does anyone think it's worth it to convert/upgrade the older surefires to led?
I'm leavin this donkey dong as is, but I was considering upgrading an m951. Would the extended battery life and increased output be worth the upgrade? 
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Posted: 2/3/2018 5:28:37 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dyzastr:
Does anyone think it's worth it to convert/upgrade the older surefires to led? I'm leavin this donkey dong as is, but I was considering upgrading an m951. Would the extended battery life and increased output be worth the upgrade? http://i.imgur.com/UJqW628.jpg https://www.ebay.com/itm/SureFire-6P-G2-9P-CREE-XM-L-T6-1-Mode-3-7V-LED-Drop-in-Module-Flashlight-Bulb-/172567227839 I've converted two 6Ps and an M952 using those LED modules and they work great. I don't think the seller carries the exact UPC of the three LEDs I purchased, but it's the same seller and same type/description, so they should be GTG. The throw and spill on the LEDs I received was excellent and the beam just about perfect. A lot of inexpensive LEDs on Ebay have shadows or imperfections in the beam, but the three from this seller were very high quality. I ordered one and then a few months later ordered two more because I liked the first conversion so much. You can drop those right into an M951/M952 to do a quick conversion (the main spring might need to be stretched slightly), but the head/bezel will not fully seat without some minor modifications. They are completely workable without mods - the o-ring makes full contact and seals - but to do a quality conversion you'll need some 100 or 150 grit and 400 grit sandpaper. A polishing stone will make an even nicer finished product, but isn't required. Sand down all of the small machining ridges on the aluminum module with the heavier grit and then test fit. Once the head screws down almost completely, finish sand/polish smooth with the 400 grit and/or a polishing stone until the head seats fully. This will give you a very tight fitting bulb module with maximum contact - which is excellent for heatsink purposes. If you want to go even further, continue to sand down until you can wrap one or more copper sheets very tightly around the module and still have the head fully seat. Personally, I didn't bother with a copper heatsink; my lights run more than long enough before heat becomes an issue just by polishing the aluminum module. I use 16650 rechargeables with those bulbs and really recommend them as long as you're not storing the battery long term without use. They will also work with regular CR123s as well, and those would be the better option if use is infrequent. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 7:57:56 AM EDT
[Last Edit: SecretSquirell]
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Who makes the Costa anyways is it a LaRue? One day maybe we will be able to afford some KACs so we can drive the platform. But until then ill drive the weapon system. https://i.imgur.com/Tv95waR.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By Spooled:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Thank you very much brosep! I really don't like giving money to optics planet anyways. Not after the shit I've seen them pull to the members of this thread. Not that I have money anyways.
Johnny, order 2. 1 for you, and swap my 200 lumen M600C head with the 1500 lumen head, then return it to optics planet. Fuck those clowns.
ETA apparently thank you as well sqirrrrrrrrelllllllll
Thanks again dude you are the man! Krdt- I have to agree, the M300 series is where its at for size and weight. Probably my favorite Scout choice based off that. But I mean shit, at 1500 lumens I'm surprised the thing isn't restricted due to fire hazard or retina frying.
https://i.imgur.com/lqrfMEa.png https://i.imgur.com/xjf7aj0.png
Wish I could afford some KAC. https://i.imgur.com/Tv95waR.jpg |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 2/3/2018 8:47:35 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By krdt: I think it's absolutely worth it; and you can do it for a lot less than you might think. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SureFire-6P-G2-9P-CREE-XM-L-T6-1-Mode-3-7V-LED-Drop-in-Module-Flashlight-Bulb-/172567227839 I've converted two 6Ps and an M952 using those LED modules and they work great. I don't think the seller carries the exact UPC of the three LEDs I purchased, but it's the same seller and same type/description, so they should be GTG. The throw and spill on the LEDs I received was excellent and the beam just about perfect. A lot of inexpensive LEDs on Ebay have shadows or imperfections in the beam, but the three from this seller were very high quality. I ordered one and then a few months later ordered two more because I liked the first conversion so much. You can drop those right into an M951/M952 to do a quick conversion (the main spring might need to be stretched slightly), but the head/bezel will not fully seat without some minor modifications. They are completely workable without mods - the o-ring makes full contact and seals - but to do a quality conversion you'll need some 100 or 150 grit and 400 grit sandpaper. A polishing stone will make an even nicer finished product, but isn't required. Sand down all of the small machining ridges on the aluminum module with the heavier grit and then test fit. Once the head screws down almost completely, finish sand/polish smooth with the 400 grit and/or a polishing stone until the head seats fully. This will give you a very tight fitting bulb module with maximum contact - which is excellent for heatsink purposes. If you want to go even further, continue to sand down until you can wrap one or more copper sheets very tightly around the module and still have the head fully seat. Personally, I didn't bother with a copper heatsink; my lights run more than long enough before heat becomes an issue just by polishing the aluminum module. I use 16650 rechargeables with those bulbs and really recommend them as long as you're not storing the battery long term without use. They will also work with regular CR123s as well, and those would be the better option if use is infrequent. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 2/3/2018 11:40:45 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MILSPEC556: Who makes the Costa anyways is it a LaRue? One day maybe we will be able to afford some KACs so we can drive the platform. But until then ill drive the weapon system. https://i.imgur.com/Tv95waR.jpg |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 4:29:56 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dyzastr:
Damn that's a great price! I purchased an m900 with a malkoff conversion and when I looked up their pricing I quickly decided that I wouldn't be upgrading any of the ones I've purchased since. But at the price you've shown me, it's a no-brainer. Thank you for that very helpful reply. These drop in conversions ca be reversed just as easily they are installed, correct? Without Any permanent modifications? Thanks again. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dyzastr:
Originally Posted By krdt: I think it's absolutely worth it; and you can do it for a lot less than you might think. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SureFire-6P-G2-9P-CREE-XM-L-T6-1-Mode-3-7V-LED-Drop-in-Module-Flashlight-Bulb-/172567227839 I've converted two 6Ps and an M952 using those LED modules and they work great. I don't think the seller carries the exact UPC of the three LEDs I purchased, but it's the same seller and same type/description, so they should be GTG. The throw and spill on the LEDs I received was excellent and the beam just about perfect. A lot of inexpensive LEDs on Ebay have shadows or imperfections in the beam, but the three from this seller were very high quality. I ordered one and then a few months later ordered two more because I liked the first conversion so much. You can drop those right into an M951/M952 to do a quick conversion (the main spring might need to be stretched slightly), but the head/bezel will not fully seat without some minor modifications. They are completely workable without mods - the o-ring makes full contact and seals - but to do a quality conversion you'll need some 100 or 150 grit and 400 grit sandpaper. A polishing stone will make an even nicer finished product, but isn't required. Sand down all of the small machining ridges on the aluminum module with the heavier grit and then test fit. Once the head screws down almost completely, finish sand/polish smooth with the 400 grit and/or a polishing stone until the head seats fully. This will give you a very tight fitting bulb module with maximum contact - which is excellent for heatsink purposes. If you want to go even further, continue to sand down until you can wrap one or more copper sheets very tightly around the module and still have the head fully seat. Personally, I didn't bother with a copper heatsink; my lights run more than long enough before heat becomes an issue just by polishing the aluminum module. I use 16650 rechargeables with those bulbs and really recommend them as long as you're not storing the battery long term without use. They will also work with regular CR123s as well, and those would be the better option if use is infrequent. I did hear of one guy who bored his light instead of sanding the LED module to make it fit, lol. Sanding/polishing makes more sense to me because from the factory those aluminum modules have ridges that don't make for the best thermal contact. With higher lumen bulbs you want as much contact with the light body as possible so that it acts as a big heatsink. Some people wrap them in aluminum or (preferably) copper wrap to improve thermal conductivity. I've run these conversions for 20 minutes or more straight and heat hasn't become an issue, so I don't think copper wrap is really needed. I guess maybe if you planned to run them longer than that or with 18650s it might be required. |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 2/3/2018 5:58:19 PM EDT
[#9]
Ya, boring it out seems a little excessive. I want to keep mine in as original condition as possible should I decide to resell it one day. I just came off a clone spending spree and I now I've added those led drop ins to the list. Picked up 2 different m951's ( the second one had an sw02 tailcap so I had to get it, Fde pri gb ch, another 249f, teardrop fa, colt ambi safety selector, colt side swivel, a colt n1 stock, and trading a scope for a b5 gen1 sopmod. Seems like I either can't find anything, or its all available at once. My mod 0 and my m4 block 1 will be complete for now. Prob gonna pick up a couple Cqd rear mounts and call it good. Should have pics to post by Tuesday if all shows up.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/3/2018 6:21:48 PM EDT
[#10]
got my barrel back from adco today and got my shit back together. Went ahead and put the dr back on the elcan, installed the maritime bolt catch and swapped to the vampire M300. sumbitch is heavy!
Guess ill start saving for an M4A1 lower next to replace the anderson. Really pains me to get another lower and stamp it, when i already have one spare that doesn't even have an upper on it, but clone correct and all
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Posted: 2/3/2018 6:33:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: MILSPEC556]
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Spooled:
got my barrel back from adco today and got my shit back together. Went ahead and put the dr back on the elcan, installed the maritime bolt catch and swapped to the vampire M300. sumbitch is heavy! Guess ill start saving for an M4A1 lower next to replace the anderson. Really pains me to get another lower and stamp it, when i already have one spare that doesn't even have an upper on it, but clone correct and all
https://i.imgur.com/d9XJKtC.jpg https://i.imgur.com/HUI1zji.jpg https://i.imgur.com/4A65vMn.jpg
Awesome setup, and that Elcan with Maritime bolt catch look badass together. I still need one lol |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/3/2018 6:44:54 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MILSPEC556:
I dig it! I have one the same lowers (but their old logo) I actually think yours looks better. I wouldn't worry about the rollmarks too much long as its a quality A2 (which mine is and yours appears to be) at least its got a horse on it.
Awesome setup, and that Elcan with Maritime bolt catch look badass together. I still need one lol my 553 will probably end up back on this when my scar barrel comes in, idk yet. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 6:58:06 PM EDT
[#13]
You could probably do an 80% lower for less than the cost of what the M4A1 go for.
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Posted: 2/3/2018 7:02:02 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Spooled:
got my barrel back from adco today and got my shit back together. Went ahead and put the dr back on the elcan, installed the maritime bolt catch and swapped to the vampire M300. sumbitch is heavy! Guess ill start saving for an M4A1 lower next to replace the anderson. Really pains me to get another lower and stamp it, when i already have one spare that doesn't even have an upper on it, but clone correct and all
https://i.imgur.com/d9XJKtC.jpg https://i.imgur.com/HUI1zji.jpg https://i.imgur.com/4A65vMn.jpg Kinda funny, I was just going to ask about putting a Maritime Bolt Catch on mine. On a scale from "CQBR Thread Approved" to "Ish", how correct is a G Maritime Bolt Catch on a CQBR? I kinda want one. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/3/2018 7:08:51 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By krdt: Looks great! I don't think there is any great need to replace the lower. Personally, I'd only F1 another lower for my CQBR if it were a custom engraved 80% with US Govt markings and all the M4A1 Carbine marked goodies. Kinda funny, I was just going to ask about putting a Maritime Bolt Catch on mine. On a scale from "CQBR Thread Approved" to "Ish", how correct is a G Maritime Bolt Catch on a CQBR? I kinda want one. i don't think many in this thread will bust your balls for having one though, it's a great peice of kit. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 7:32:51 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Spooled:
I would say currently not correct at all since they are fairly new. They will end up on issued weapons eventually though I bet. i don't think many in this thread will bust your balls for having one though, it's a great peice of kit. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Spooled:
Originally Posted By krdt: Looks great! I don't think there is any great need to replace the lower. Personally, I'd only F1 another lower for my CQBR if it were a custom engraved 80% with US Govt markings and all the M4A1 Carbine marked goodies. Kinda funny, I was just going to ask about putting a Maritime Bolt Catch on mine. On a scale from "CQBR Thread Approved" to "Ish", how correct is a G Maritime Bolt Catch on a CQBR? I kinda want one. i don't think many in this thread will bust your balls for having one though, it's a great peice of kit. Spooled, as for your lower one could argue its just as correct as a Colt civy lower. Issued Colt lowers have selector stops....civ Colt lowers do not. Your lower has selector stops.....but not optimal rollmarks. Profile > rollmarks? I think yes. (of course I'd rather have the Colt lower, but trying to justify it for you so you don't have to spend another $500 on something you essentially already have)
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Posted: 2/3/2018 7:36:34 PM EDT
[#17]
So, as promised, CQBR Burros! Went out to another one my spots yesterday and did some drills and general shooting - and, of course, tested out the SBM4. Had to re-zero my KAC irons as well because I'd recently changed out the clamp screw on the rear 300m and decided to put fresh Loctite on both front and rear. Not sure if it was due to replacing the clamp screw/Loctite or the different cheek position from the SBM4, but previously I'd had to run my windage a few clicks right of center. Now I can run almost dead on center - who knows. Anyway, on with the pics!
Setting up the range: 
My M300Cs, ready to drive the primary weapon system platform. Bust 'em! 
As you can see, my painted M300C/GS combo from the CQBR found its way onto the NQR Mod 0.  The empty mags accumulate. If you're wondering why I always have a pile of ammo on the shooting table, it's not because I load mags as I shoot, it's because I like to unload mags to random low round counts for reload drills. 
Obligatory CQBR Glamor Shots: 
Views from the range :D. Among other reasons, this is why I go to the desert and not any of the public/private ranges. 
Some cell phone potato snaps along the road. 
CQBR Burros!@ 100% burro clone correct. 
A bookend to keep things on topic ;p. 
I'm sure most of you have noticed I tend to take a few pics when I go CQBR shooting in the desert and post 'em here. Some of it clone related and some not. I figured it gives the post a little more context and flavor rather than "here is another picture of my CQBR, just in a different location", lol. I mean, technically it's clone related cause I'm shooting my CQBR ;p. That being said, if you guys don't want anymore "off topic" photos from my shooting trips, it's no big deal. Just let me know. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/3/2018 7:52:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Spooled]
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Agreed on all accounts. Havent seen yet but probably will. Spooled, as for your lower one could argue its just as correct as a Colt civy lower. Issued Colt lowers have selector stops....civ Colt lowers do not. Your lower has selector stops.....but not optimal rollmarks. Profile > rollmarks? I think yes. (of course I'd rather have the Colt lower, but trying to justify it for you so you don't have to spend another $500 on something you essentially already have)krdt sweet pics man, I could only dream of having a shooting spot as sweet as that. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 8:13:03 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By krdt:
So, as promised, CQBR Burros! Went out to another one my spots yesterday and did some drills and general shooting - and, of course, tested out the SBM4. Had to re-zero my KAC irons as well because I'd recently changed out the clamp screw on the rear 300m and decided to put fresh Loctite on both front and rear. Not sure if it was due to replacing the clamp screw/Loctite or the different cheek position from the SBM4, but previously I'd had to run my windage a few clicks right of center. Now I can run almost dead on center - who knows. Anyway, on with the pics! Setting up the range: http://wkd.site.nfoservers.com/CQBR/CQBR.Desert.SBM4-06.jpg My M300Cs, ready to drive the primary weapon system platform. Bust 'em! http://wkd.site.nfoservers.com/CQBR/CQBR.Desert.SBM4-03.jpg As you can see, my painted M300C/GS combo from the CQBR found its way onto the NQR Mod 0. http://wkd.site.nfoservers.com/CQBR/CQBR.Desert.SBM4-04.jpg The empty mags accumulate. If you're wondering why I always have a pile of ammo on the shooting table, it's not because I load mags as I shoot, it's because I like to unload mags to random low round counts for reload drills. http://wkd.site.nfoservers.com/CQBR/CQBR.Desert.SBM4-07.jpg Obligatory CQBR Glamor Shots: http://wkd.site.nfoservers.com/CQBR/CQBR.Desert.SBM4-CA-01.jpg http://wkd.site.nfoservers.com/CQBR/CQBR.Desert.SBM4-CA-03.jpg http://wkd.site.nfoservers.com/CQBR/CQBR.Desert.SBM4-CA-04.jpg http://wkd.site.nfoservers.com/CQBR/CQBR.Desert.SBM4-CA-02.jpg Views from the range :D. Among other reasons, this is why I go to the desert and not any of the public/private ranges. http://wkd.site.nfoservers.com/CQBR/CQBR.Desert.SBM4-Mountains-05.jpg Some cell phone potato snaps along the road. http://wkd.site.nfoservers.com/CQBR/CQBR.Desert.SBM4-Mountains-04.jpg http://wkd.site.nfoservers.com/CQBR/CQBR.Desert.SBM4-Mountains-02.jpg http://wkd.site.nfoservers.com/CQBR/CQBR.Desert.SBM4-Mountains-01.jpg CQBR Burros!@ 100% burro clone correct. http://wkd.site.nfoservers.com/CQBR/CQBR.Desert.SBM4-CQBR.Burro-01.jpg http://wkd.site.nfoservers.com/CQBR/CQBR.Desert.SBM4-CQBR.Burro-02.jpg A bookend to keep things on topic ;p. http://wkd.site.nfoservers.com/CQBR/CQBR.Desert.SBM4-CA-05.jpg I'm sure most of you have noticed I tend to take a few pics when I go CQBR shooting in the desert and post 'em here. Some of it clone related and some not. I figured it gives the post a little more context and flavor rather than "here is another picture of my CQBR, just in a different location", lol. I mean, technically it's clone related cause I'm shooting my CQBR ;p. That being said, if you guys don't want anymore "off topic" photos from my shooting trips, it's no big deal. Just let me know. Awesome pics, awesome range, awesome donkeys, and sweet waffle brace
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/3/2018 8:20:05 PM EDT
[#20]
Just missing it's comp m2.
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Posted: 2/3/2018 8:25:11 PM EDT
[Last Edit: krdt]
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Spooled:
Sense, you make a lot of it haha. Guess I'll have to decide on my next project then. krdt sweet pics man, I could only dream of having a shooting spot as sweet as that. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Spooled:
Sense, you make a lot of it haha. Guess I'll have to decide on my next project then. krdt sweet pics man, I could only dream of having a shooting spot as sweet as that. Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
I speak for the people who's opinion matters when I say we love the pics and captions. But I die a little bit inside every time I see steel cased .223. So there is that. Awesome pics, awesome range, awesome donkeys, and sweet waffle brace Spooled: Unfortunately, seems like my stash of shooting spots gets smaller every year. I used to have a full range I built in a wash about 15 minutes from my house. It was pretty snazzy with I think it was 8 or 10 metal post and plywood targets at different ranges. I left it all out there for everyone to use, and it actually stayed intact for longer than you'd expect. But, inevitably, lazy idgits wouldn't bring their own targets and started shooting the posts instead and eventually destroyed it. Then they closed the whole area entirely a few years ago. Now I have to drive like 45 minutes or an hour to get to a decent spot. There are areas closer, but they are overrun with people and generally filthy with trash and shit left behind - which, of course, leads to more places being closed. Vicious cycle, heh. Luckily my two main spots haven't been discovered by the masses at large yet, and the few people who do go there usually clean up after themselves. Had one group this year that left a bunch of shit behind, but I grudgingly cleaned it up :\. Milspec: I know, it's sacrilege. I just can't make the math work for paying $275 to $300 a case for brass with the amount of shooting I do. I'm either too cheap or too broke to pass up $200 a case shipped for 55gr/62gr Wolf WPA when Brownells has a sale. I've worked out that I can buy a fresh barrel and like 2 or 3 more cases of steelshit when I burnout my barrel, lol. I generally don't shoot my shorties at ranges that I need anything more accurate, and mostly stick to steel for bulk practice. I do have a good stash of quality stuff laid by, and I picked up several cases of AE .223 55gr recently from the sale Brownells had plus factory rebate. I should've bought more - the price was only about $20 more per 1000 than Wolf WPA. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 8:39:09 PM EDT
[#22]
I hear you on the price thing. Luckily brass is cheaper than its been in forever tho so that's always good. As of late I've just been doing enough shooting just to stay proficient, which also lets me only shoot brass cased. (Extending parts life is also a plus) Its more due to life getting in the way than anything but if I shot all the time id probably shoot cheap ammo as well. Don't know that id ever switch back to steel tho. I didn't really enjoy my run-ins with Tula. Not only did it give me some issues, I felt like a dirty cheap whore.
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Posted: 2/3/2018 9:15:38 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By StevieJ309:
You could probably do an 80% lower for less than the cost of what the M4A1 go for. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 9:19:11 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell:
If you've already got the equipment, yeah. If not, you'll drop a bit of coin to get started. But that's all stuff that will be able to be used to make more. Then you gotta figure in anodizing. I think I wound up around $400 to get mine finished out. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Originally Posted By StevieJ309:
You could probably do an 80% lower for less than the cost of what the M4A1 go for. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 9:25:12 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MILSPEC556:
I hear you on the price thing. Luckily brass is cheaper than its been in forever tho so that's always good. As of late I've just been doing enough shooting just to stay proficient, which also lets me only shoot brass cased. (Extending parts life is also a plus) Its more due to life getting in the way than anything but if I shot all the time id probably shoot cheap ammo as well. Don't know that id ever switch back to steel tho. I didn't really enjoy my run-ins with Tula. Not only did it give me some issues, I felt like a dirty cheap whore. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 9:25:57 PM EDT
[#26]
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Originally Posted By StevieJ309:
You could probably do an 80% lower for less than the cost of what the M4A1 go for. I think it's way more cost effective to bite the bullet on a 5D Pro Jig, router and so on. At least then you have the ability to make more lowers, and you end up with something much closer to "correct" in the bargain. When I priced it out (thanks to Squire II's suggestion ;p) I was looking at around $500 starting from scratch. So, still cheaper than buying even one Colt M4A1 lower. Even if you only do one and sell the jig, it's still way less expensive. I was going to use US Anodizing, but there are a few others that are cheaper - no idea how they compare quality wise. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 9:27:14 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By StevieJ309:
Who did you use for ano? I want to get a jig and do some lowers this year. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By StevieJ309:
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Originally Posted By StevieJ309:
You could probably do an 80% lower for less than the cost of what the M4A1 go for. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 9:28:38 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By krdt:
Considering Colt M4A1 lowers are going for, what, $600 to $1000? And that just gets you one... I think it's way more cost effective to bite the bullet on a 5D Pro Jig, router and so on. At least then you have the ability to make more lowers, and you end up with something much closer to "correct" in the bargain. When I priced it out (thanks to Squire II's suggestion ;p) I was looking at around $500 starting from scratch. So, still cheaper than buying even one Colt M4A1 lower. Even if you only do one and sell the jig, it's still way less expensive. I was going to use US Anodizing, but there are a few others that are cheaper - no idea how they compare quality wise. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By krdt:
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Originally Posted By StevieJ309:
You could probably do an 80% lower for less than the cost of what the M4A1 go for. I think it's way more cost effective to bite the bullet on a 5D Pro Jig, router and so on. At least then you have the ability to make more lowers, and you end up with something much closer to "correct" in the bargain. When I priced it out (thanks to Squire II's suggestion ;p) I was looking at around $500 starting from scratch. So, still cheaper than buying even one Colt M4A1 lower. Even if you only do one and sell the jig, it's still way less expensive. I was going to use US Anodizing, but there are a few others that are cheaper - no idea how they compare quality wise.
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Posted: 2/3/2018 9:29:06 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MILSPEC556:
I hear you on the price thing. Luckily brass is cheaper than its been in forever tho so that's always good. As of late I've just been doing enough shooting just to stay proficient, which also lets me only shoot brass cased. (Extending parts life is also a plus) Its more due to life getting in the way than anything but if I shot all the time id probably shoot cheap ammo as well. Don't know that id ever switch back to steel tho. I didn't really enjoy my run-ins with Tula. Not only did it give me some issues, I felt like a dirty cheap whore. I actually unintentionally shot the last of it through the CQBR not long after building it, and it caused the only malfunctions I've had to this point. I should've thrown it away a decade ago back when I first realized it was a bad batch, but no... I squirreled it away. I came across this old ammo can shoved to the back of a cabinet in my garage and didn't realize what it was until I started shooting it. As you can imagine, chunks of metal in the bolt isn't exactly a recipe for great function, and I got a few light or non-existent primer strikes because the fucking metal chunks ended up in the firing pin path. Who knows what that did to my poor gas port - probably started some early erosion. I haven't measured it since it was new, but I can shoot Wolf WPA with an H3 no problem, lol. Ejection around 4:30... 5 if it's starting to get really dirty. It's still nothing close to whatever gas port my Noveske 10.5 has, though (guessing .080+, but I haven't measured it). That thing is running a Sprinco Red and H3, and it's still way sharper on the recoil than the CQBR. I'm thinking about getting one of those BRT .070 inserts to get it calmed down. Anyway, I've had good luck with Wolf - the pressure is a lot higher than with Tula and I've never had any issues using it. Obviously it's going to shorten my barrel life, but cost wise that still works out in my favor over time. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 9:33:26 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Damn, I didn't realize they were commanding that price. I was thinking $300-ish. |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 2/3/2018 9:34:25 PM EDT
[#31]
Here is why I stopped using steel cased ammo.
Two consecutive range trips, into the first mag, click bang, click bang, click nothing. My extractor ripped the rim right off of the casing, leaving it stuck in the chamber. No other deformations or issues with the casings. Just that the steel is too hard and brittle whereas the brass is softer and more giving. Thought it was a fluke the first time. Then it happened again. Stopped shooting steel that day and never looked back. Still have a couple hundred rounds too. Should get me a bolt action to finish em off. 
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Posted: 2/3/2018 9:37:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: krdt]
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Damn, I didn't realize they were commanding that price. I was thinking $300-ish. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Originally Posted By krdt:
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Originally Posted By StevieJ309:
You could probably do an 80% lower for less than the cost of what the M4A1 go for. I think it's way more cost effective to bite the bullet on a 5D Pro Jig, router and so on. At least then you have the ability to make more lowers, and you end up with something much closer to "correct" in the bargain. When I priced it out (thanks to Squire II's suggestion ;p) I was looking at around $500 starting from scratch. So, still cheaper than buying even one Colt M4A1 lower. Even if you only do one and sell the jig, it's still way less expensive. I was going to use US Anodizing, but there are a few others that are cheaper - no idea how they compare quality wise. ETA: We should just crowdfund a 5D Pro Jig and router, lol. Ship that sucker around to all the guys who chipped in and we can all mill some fancy 80%s on the cheap. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 9:46:08 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Combat_Diver]
[#33]
krdt,
Awsome pictures, beats my scenery.
I still haven't had a chance to zero that new 10.3" upper. Had to fly out to a location and repair a minigun and Carl G. CD |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 9:46:25 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By StevieJ309:
Yeah, I've seen them sell around $1,000 on more than one occasion. That's why I suggested building. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By StevieJ309:
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Damn, I didn't realize they were commanding that price. I was thinking $300-ish. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 9:57:18 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Combat_Diver:
krdt, Awsome pictures, beats my scenery.
I still haven't had a chance to zero that new 10.3" upper. Had to fly out to a location and repair a minigun and Carl G. CD |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 2/3/2018 11:01:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Dyzastr]
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Damn, I didn't realize they were commanding that price. I was thinking $300-ish. Edit- whoops, should read better b4 I post. Kraft covered that already. Damn auto-correct. Kurds, dammit krdt did. |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 1:51:19 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell:
That's because you are. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
I hear you on the price thing. Luckily brass is cheaper than its been in forever tho so that's always good. As of late I've just been doing enough shooting just to stay proficient, which also lets me only shoot brass cased. (Extending parts life is also a plus) Its more due to life getting in the way than anything but if I shot all the time id probably shoot cheap ammo as well. Don't know that id ever switch back to steel tho. I didn't really enjoy my run-ins with Tula. Not only did it give me some issues, I felt like a dirty cheap whore. (Insert Ride of the Valkries) BAM-BAM-BAM-BAAAAM-BAM BAM-BAM-BAM-BAAAAAAM-BAM BAM-BAM-BAM-BAAAAAAAAM-BAM BAM-BAM-BAM-BAMMMM!!!! 
And this is where I like it. Trying to decide if I should move it back 1 more slot or not, as its pretty damn close to the M.D. cut outs. Any thoughts? 
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IN, USA
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Posted: 2/4/2018 2:02:29 AM EDT
[#38]
Without a can I'd prob move it back a slot. I don't think it'll get too tore up where it's at. It really Depends on how well you can activate from where it's at vs one slot back. I'd say if it's just as comfortable one slot back then go for it. Won't have o clean carbon off the glass soo much.
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IN, USA
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Posted: 2/4/2018 2:03:02 AM EDT
[#39]
*to
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IN, USA
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Posted: 2/4/2018 2:06:02 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Dyzastr]
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By krdt: Lol... $300 is M4 marked prices. Stripped Colt M4 lowers are usually around $250 on gunbroker. I priced out all the options for lowers to F1 on the CQBR before I settled on one of the Brownells Colt lowers. I really wanted to go the 80% route - and I'll do it eventually - but I didn't want to spend $500 on a lower at that time. Actually, $700 if you count the stamp. After I parted it out, the Brownells lower was around $90 plus the $200, so not that bad. Still want an 80%, though :\. ETA: We should just crowdfund a 5D Pro Jig and router, lol. Ship that sucker around to all the guys who chipped in and we can all mill some fancy 80%s on the cheap. |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 2:16:54 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dyzastr:
Without a can I'd prob move it back a slot. I don't think it'll get too tore up where it's at. It really Depends on how well you can activate from where it's at vs one slot back. I'd say if it's just as comfortable one slot back then go for it. Won't have o clean carbon off the glass soo much. |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 7:59:00 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By krdt: Thanks :D. I don't know, though... miniguns and all the toys you get to play with are pretty damn good scenery in and of themselves, lol. CD |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 2/4/2018 8:10:26 AM EDT
[#43]
Set up looks great though. Some day soon i can see myself droppin that kinda coin on a light. I'm still somewhat new to the clone game so I'm dippin my toes in the water buyin up the older 'correct' models in the $100 range. Before that I was like, $80 for a flash light? F- that. Now I'm spendin as much for a damn front sight as I did for a handguard. Just broke the ice on a block 2 build. Finally decided I needed some taupe 99051in my life. Already have most parts, but I still gotta get a mk18 ris ii. That's a hard pill to swallow. I found myself thinkin, 'didn't I see some pics b4 with a larue lt15-9?' But I know if I went that route and cloned one of those I'd still eventually end up with the dd, and then would've spent more than if I would've just got the damn dd in the first place. I do like the Kac carbine FF look, which is similar to the larue. Any pics around still of larue rails bein used on cqbr's?
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Posted: 2/4/2018 8:44:10 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Combat_Diver]
[#44]
As promised, Mountains around us,
 Attached Filetoday's range.....  Attached Fileand a URG to keep it going. 
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/4/2018 9:47:13 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Spooled]
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MILSPEC556:
C clamp grip DEEZ NUTZ! (Insert Ride of the Valkries) BAM-BAM-BAM-BAAAAM-BAM BAM-BAM-BAM-BAAAAAAM-BAM BAM-BAM-BAM-BAAAAAAAAM-BAM BAM-BAM-BAM-BAMMMM!!!! https://i.imgur.com/OkEoSvU.jpg https://i.imgur.com/a9Jp9vm.jpg And this is where I like it. Trying to decide if I should move it back 1 more slot or not, as its pretty damn close to the M.D. cut outs. Any thoughts? https://i.imgur.com/jauRvec.jpg I really wanted to use this well worn 620 on my CQBR but the mount makes the light block my laser. 
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CT, USA
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Posted: 2/4/2018 2:10:33 PM EDT
[#46]
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WA, USA
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Posted: 2/4/2018 2:10:44 PM EDT
[#47]
Who do you guys recommend for the Colt clone engraving? I use Tactical Machining 80% lowers a good bit and already have a 5D set up, but I've never had anything engraved other than SBR's??
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Posted: 2/4/2018 2:25:31 PM EDT
[#48]
Originally Posted By Combat_Diver:
As promised, Mountains around us, https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/32677/IMG_4728-441025.JPG today's range..... https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/32677/IMG_4732-441004.JPG and a URG to keep it going. http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/IMG_1319_rz.jpg http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/IMG_1343_elcan.JPG http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/IMG_1167_rz.jpg http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/IMG_1176_rz.jpg And two different URGs running Raptors or is that the same one with different optics? Just wondering how common Raptors actually are on the guns you see. Originally Posted By ThRob:
Who do you guys recommend for the Colt clone engraving? I use Tactical Machining 80% lowers a good bit and already have a 5D set up, but I've never had anything engraved other than SBR's?? |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 2:49:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: MILSPEC556]
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Spooled:
Man that is the shiniest peic of gear I have ever seen on one of your guns lol I really wanted to use this well worn 620 on my CQBR but the mount makes the light block my laser. https://i.imgur.com/ZNs7UPH.jpg https://i.imgur.com/fPYsbnk.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Spooled:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
C clamp grip DEEZ NUTZ! (Insert Ride of the Valkries) BAM-BAM-BAM-BAAAAM-BAM BAM-BAM-BAM-BAAAAAAM-BAM BAM-BAM-BAM-BAAAAAAAAM-BAM BAM-BAM-BAM-BAMMMM!!!! https://i.imgur.com/OkEoSvU.jpg https://i.imgur.com/a9Jp9vm.jpg And this is where I like it. Trying to decide if I should move it back 1 more slot or not, as its pretty damn close to the M.D. cut outs. Any thoughts? https://i.imgur.com/jauRvec.jpg I really wanted to use this well worn 620 on my CQBR but the mount makes the light block my laser. https://i.imgur.com/ZNs7UPH.jpg https://i.imgur.com/fPYsbnk.jpg
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Posted: 2/4/2018 2:53:06 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ThRob:
Who do you guys recommend for the Colt clone engraving? I use Tactical Machining 80% lowers a good bit and already have a 5D set up, but I've never had anything engraved other than SBR's?? |
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