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Posted: 5/31/2008 10:53:44 AM EDT
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Some folks here use Mueller scopes. I recently sent a scope back. The scope was a low end Extreme 3.5x10x44. I had originally mounted it on a M700 270. But a surplus of rifles and a shortage of optics required several rounds of musical scopes. Then while remounting the scope I saw this;  Needless to say, I wasn't too happy. It could have been my fault for using Warne Maxima rings. Too add to the problem, the Mueller was put on a 300 Weatherby. The zero promptly ran away and hid. Last Monday I sent the scope back to Mueller with a short note about the zero and a copy of the original receipt. Didn't say a word about the tube. On Friday, that's five working days, I got a box from Mueller and a brand new scope. There was a note requesting that I use Burris Signature rings (on order as I type). it's going back on my 270 and will stay there. No more musical scopes. I'm replacing all my Warne rings with Burris rings. No muss, no fuss and no BS. I'm very happy. Special thanks to Jon and the folks at The Optic Zone . The Optic Zone used to carry Mueller way back when, and Jon was good enough to send me a copy of my original receipt. Mueller won't take back a scope without a copy of the receipt. Thanks Optic Zone And thanks Mueller. ZM |
I wouldn't blame the Warne rings for crushing the rear end of the tube. In my opinion they make a very good product, and so does Burris. but that kind of crush comes from over-tightening of the rings. That's bad especially in the rear side of the saddle because the crush will stop the erector tube from moving properly. The way a scope can be internally adjusted is that one side of the erector tube is free to move while the other side is fixed in place. The side with the reticle is fixed in place while the side at the adjusting screws is free to move. There isn't a lot of space between the outside diameter of the erector tube and the inside diameter of the main tube. For example, in our scopes we use an over-sized erector tube to improve contrast and resolution, but this comes at a cost of range of movement of the erector tube. Typically, there's about .06 to .07 inch between the OD of the erector tube and the ID of the main tube. If you put a .03 inch dent in the tube, not only did you just loose half the range of adjustment, but now there's a chance that the erector tube will be hitting the inside of the main tube every recoil event. That will cause the spring to go bad in short order. I'm pretty sure the reason they suggested the Burris rings is because of the plastic inserts. But whatever rings you choose, please follow the instructions. It really doesn't take a great deal of pressure to keep a scope in place (typically 18 to 25 inch-pounds,) nor do ring halves need to touch each other while tightening them down to the correct inch-pound spec. |
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zoinks, Gee thanks for the lecture. I don't recall requesting admonishment. I use a torque wrench and tighten to Warne spec for these rings. My two Nikon and two Tasco scopes are tightened to the same specs and are fine. So, it's the tube man. My main issue was the loss of zero. I think the scope would have gone way just from the recoil of the Weatherby. The tube was a secondary issue to me. I started this thread to give a positive comment about Mueller's customer service. If I had wanted comments about my scope tightened methods I would have asked for assistance. ZM |
Then you should be more clear in your original post of what you are looking for in our responses. Personally I think that scope is a POS if the tube collapses that easy. I'd rather buy a scope that never needs customer service. Bill |
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